pittman, idler arm, and tie rod
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pittman, idler arm, and tie rod
I took my 94 4runner in today to get aligned because it had been pulling a little and a "hard" spot had been developing in the stering. The shop I took it to told me that the pittman, idler arm, and tie rod end on the left needed to be replaced. Does this sound reasonable and if so how difficult is something like this to do. Thanks for the info guys
#2
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They're probably right. Do you have wider or aftermarket wheels and/or tires? That can cause those components to wear out over time. You can get away with leaving it alone until it gets really noticeably bad, but that's up to you.
As for how hard it is to change them out, the idler arm isn't hard at all if you have a puller (you can get them pretty cheap), but I can't comment on the pitman arm or the rod end. You could probably do it all if you got a Haynes manual and set aside a day for it.
As for how hard it is to change them out, the idler arm isn't hard at all if you have a puller (you can get them pretty cheap), but I can't comment on the pitman arm or the rod end. You could probably do it all if you got a Haynes manual and set aside a day for it.
#3
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I highly doubt your PITMAN arm is bad. I mean, it's a thick peice of steel, so unless it's bent up don't replace it. Idler arm might just need the bushings replaced.
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Originally posted by Adam F
I highly doubt your PITMAN arm is bad. I mean, it's a thick peice of steel, so unless it's bent up don't replace it. Idler arm might just need the bushings replaced.
I highly doubt your PITMAN arm is bad. I mean, it's a thick peice of steel, so unless it's bent up don't replace it. Idler arm might just need the bushings replaced.
You can rebuild the idler arm. That's what I did and it only costs like $12. Here is the write-up on it. I used it and didn't have any problems.
Good Luck
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I am running stock size tires and wheels but i did crank the torsion bars up about 6 months ago. I kinda had the same thought about the pittman arm. I doesnt look bent or anything. thanks for the replies and keep the advice coming.
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Originally posted by goatboy22382
I am running stock size tires and wheels but i did crank the torsion bars up about 6 months ago. I kinda had the same thought about the pittman arm. I doesnt look bent or anything. thanks for the replies and keep the advice coming.
I am running stock size tires and wheels but i did crank the torsion bars up about 6 months ago. I kinda had the same thought about the pittman arm. I doesnt look bent or anything. thanks for the replies and keep the advice coming.
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a toy pitman has a ball and socket swivel on the end that will go bad just as tie rod end (tre) would. they are the same thing really. but they dont go bad that often. i would rebuild the idler for the few dollars that costs then drive it. your tre might well be bad. none of it is too hard. your idler will go bad regularly if you have too much lift cranked on your t-bars. keep it to an inch or so, its a sliding scale kinda thing-more crank more wear.
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#9
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1. Idler arm isn't that bad even without a puller (I swapped mine in about 2hrs without the use of a puller)
2. Pittman arm I cant comment on.
3. Tie rod ends -
I just got done swapping one and TRYING to swap the other, again without a puller. The tie rod end was holding up the entire weight of the truck and still wasn't coming loose with the use of a prybar and hammer. So if you do swap these things, go get a 4+ ton gear puller and a 12' long, 70lb breaker bar. And maybe about 20lbs of C4 if you get too pissed........
Know anywhere where I can get 20lbs of C4 to take care of my 4Runner's problems? This thing is pissing me off.....
2. Pittman arm I cant comment on.
3. Tie rod ends -
I just got done swapping one and TRYING to swap the other, again without a puller. The tie rod end was holding up the entire weight of the truck and still wasn't coming loose with the use of a prybar and hammer. So if you do swap these things, go get a 4+ ton gear puller and a 12' long, 70lb breaker bar. And maybe about 20lbs of C4 if you get too pissed........
Know anywhere where I can get 20lbs of C4 to take care of my 4Runner's problems? This thing is pissing me off.....
#10
For myself, if I have any play outside the manufacturers specs., I R&R. Also if one tie rod is bad I would replace both. On stubborn joints like the tie rods for instance, I use an air hammer with pickle fork while at the same time smacking the nuckle with a hammer. If you're tring to save the boot, a puller is best.
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Originally posted by Bumpin' Yota
3. Tie rod ends -
I just got done swapping one and TRYING to swap the other, again without a puller. The tie rod end was holding up the entire weight of the truck and still wasn't coming loose with the use of a prybar and hammer. So if you do swap these things, go get a 4+ ton gear puller and a 12' long, 70lb breaker bar. And maybe about 20lbs of C4 if you get too pissed........
Know anywhere where I can get 20lbs of C4 to take care of my 4Runner's problems? This thing is pissing me off.....
3. Tie rod ends -
I just got done swapping one and TRYING to swap the other, again without a puller. The tie rod end was holding up the entire weight of the truck and still wasn't coming loose with the use of a prybar and hammer. So if you do swap these things, go get a 4+ ton gear puller and a 12' long, 70lb breaker bar. And maybe about 20lbs of C4 if you get too pissed........
Know anywhere where I can get 20lbs of C4 to take care of my 4Runner's problems? This thing is pissing me off.....
EDIT:
Inner Tie Rod, sorry it's in the new boot already:
Lower Balljoint:
Upper Balljoint:
Last edited by keisur; 11-04-2003 at 06:04 AM.
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Originally posted by nightsurfride
For myself, if I have any play outside the manufacturers specs., I R&R. Also if one tie rod is bad I would replace both. On stubborn joints like the tie rods for instance, I use an air hammer with pickle fork while at the same time smacking the nuckle with a hammer. If you're tring to save the boot, a puller is best.
For myself, if I have any play outside the manufacturers specs., I R&R. Also if one tie rod is bad I would replace both. On stubborn joints like the tie rods for instance, I use an air hammer with pickle fork while at the same time smacking the nuckle with a hammer. If you're tring to save the boot, a puller is best.
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Originally posted by Bumpin' Yota
And maybe about 20lbs of C4 if you get too pissed........
Know anywhere where I can get 20lbs of C4 to take care of my 4Runner's problems? This thing is pissing me off.....
And maybe about 20lbs of C4 if you get too pissed........
Know anywhere where I can get 20lbs of C4 to take care of my 4Runner's problems? This thing is pissing me off.....
The only thing I got pissed at was that I almost pressed the upper balljoint in upside down, that wouldn't have been good.
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i ordered the bushings to rebuild my idler arm, only to find out the ball joint part of the idler was bad. so i replaced the whole idler.
i used a pickle fork to pop it off and the tie-rods, too. i used a 5-piece short pickle fork kit for ball joints and tie rods with a small 2-lb sledge. popped off in 2 hits. the day before i tried with a long pickle fork and a claw hammer and wailed on it all day long - so if you get the right tools, it takes very little time to do.
i used a pickle fork to pop it off and the tie-rods, too. i used a 5-piece short pickle fork kit for ball joints and tie rods with a small 2-lb sledge. popped off in 2 hits. the day before i tried with a long pickle fork and a claw hammer and wailed on it all day long - so if you get the right tools, it takes very little time to do.
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Originally posted by nofilter
i ordered the bushings to rebuild my idler arm, only to find out the ball joint part of the idler was bad. so i replaced the whole idler.
i used a pickle fork to pop it off and the tie-rods, too. i used a 5-piece short pickle fork kit for ball joints and tie rods with a small 2-lb sledge. popped off in 2 hits. the day before i tried with a long pickle fork and a claw hammer and wailed on it all day long - so if you get the right tools, it takes very little time to do.
i ordered the bushings to rebuild my idler arm, only to find out the ball joint part of the idler was bad. so i replaced the whole idler.
i used a pickle fork to pop it off and the tie-rods, too. i used a 5-piece short pickle fork kit for ball joints and tie rods with a small 2-lb sledge. popped off in 2 hits. the day before i tried with a long pickle fork and a claw hammer and wailed on it all day long - so if you get the right tools, it takes very little time to do.
#16
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well, im about to blow up this 3ton gear puller I have on this damn tie rod end.....
Going out to add another 1/2 turn of tension and WD40....
steve
EDIT - the gear puller blew up and launced my 1/2" drive ratchet about 8 feet. Thankfully I'm ok, but I was kinda expecting that to happen.
Thankfully that gearpuller has a lifetime warrenty! (now to trade it in for the 5 ton version for an extra 11 bux) and then to bring in the pickle fork and 20lb sledge on the truck lift....
LOL
Going out to add another 1/2 turn of tension and WD40....
steve
EDIT - the gear puller blew up and launced my 1/2" drive ratchet about 8 feet. Thankfully I'm ok, but I was kinda expecting that to happen.
Thankfully that gearpuller has a lifetime warrenty! (now to trade it in for the 5 ton version for an extra 11 bux) and then to bring in the pickle fork and 20lb sledge on the truck lift....
LOL
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 11-04-2003 at 06:20 PM.
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I just added a page to my website describing the jigs I crafted to do my balljoints so check it out if you want. click it below in my sig or hit the WWW button below.
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