P0325 & P0330 Diagnosis
05-30-2015, 12:11 PM
#1
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P0325 & P0330 Diagnosis
Hey guys.
Recently I got my truck up and running after having a full rebuild done. I have been chasing a "check engine" light recently and I am throughly stumped. The first light was the P0325-knock sensor "bank 2". Bought a new harness along with the sensor and replaced them. Turns out I had pinched the harness during my initial reassembly. Put everything back together and fire it up. The light is still on and comes back for P0330-knock sensor "bank 1". :Insert rage here: Well....I pull everything apart again and replace the other.
Here's the problem. The light is still on and it's coming back for both P0325 and P0330.
I'm starting to get pretty aggravated. Here's the rundown:
1. Both sensors replaced.
2. Harness replaced and is NOT pinched.
3. Plugs are new.
4. Injectors were sent away for refurb.
S/S: Noticeable bog between 1,700-3,400 RPM. Verified that my ignition timing is retarded to 5 degrees. Idles perfectly and no signs of any other problems.
I kind of have an idea where to proceed next, but I'm not 100% sure. Anyone have some experience with this? I'd love to get some ideas. Thanks.
Here's wehre I'm thinking of going:
1. Compression Check...again (I did one recently and it came back fine)
2. Plugs
3. Check for vacuum Leaks???? (Causing it to run lean, maybe)
4. ?????????
Recently I got my truck up and running after having a full rebuild done. I have been chasing a "check engine" light recently and I am throughly stumped. The first light was the P0325-knock sensor "bank 2". Bought a new harness along with the sensor and replaced them. Turns out I had pinched the harness during my initial reassembly. Put everything back together and fire it up. The light is still on and comes back for P0330-knock sensor "bank 1". :Insert rage here: Well....I pull everything apart again and replace the other.
Here's the problem. The light is still on and it's coming back for both P0325 and P0330.
I'm starting to get pretty aggravated. Here's the rundown:
1. Both sensors replaced.
2. Harness replaced and is NOT pinched.
3. Plugs are new.
4. Injectors were sent away for refurb.
S/S: Noticeable bog between 1,700-3,400 RPM. Verified that my ignition timing is retarded to 5 degrees. Idles perfectly and no signs of any other problems.
I kind of have an idea where to proceed next, but I'm not 100% sure. Anyone have some experience with this? I'd love to get some ideas. Thanks.
Here's wehre I'm thinking of going:
1. Compression Check...again (I did one recently and it came back fine)
2. Plugs
3. Check for vacuum Leaks???? (Causing it to run lean, maybe)
4. ?????????
Last edited by 4Runner-Dan; 05-30-2015 at 12:14 PM.
05-31-2015, 12:42 AM
#2
Corroded connection where the knock sensor pigtail plugs into the engine harness
These codes are for the complete circuit knock sensor wiring and ECM
Knock sensors are pretty simple but sometimes these engines don`t like other the OEm sensors
You did check the knock sensors you removed and they were open or shorted???
These codes are for the complete circuit knock sensor wiring and ECM
Knock sensors are pretty simple but sometimes these engines don`t like other the OEm sensors
You did check the knock sensors you removed and they were open or shorted???
05-31-2015, 03:40 PM
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Corroded connection where the knock sensor pigtail plugs into the engine harness
These codes are for the complete circuit knock sensor wiring and ECM
Knock sensors are pretty simple but sometimes these engines don`t like other the OEm sensors
You did check the knock sensors you removed and they were open or shorted???
These codes are for the complete circuit knock sensor wiring and ECM
Knock sensors are pretty simple but sometimes these engines don`t like other the OEm sensors
You did check the knock sensors you removed and they were open or shorted???
I will say that I didn't fully bench test the sensors prior to replacing them. The connector on the sensor actually had become brittle and removed itself from the sensor when I was replacing the harness, so a new one was required.
An interesting note while doing some research today. This is from an RX300 forum in reference to a knock sensor problem.
Originally Posted by RX 300 forum
'BlackSpade', on 19 Nov 2010 - 08:42, said:
Just an FYI, I had the same problem with my 99 RX 300. I anticipated having to replace the knock sensors and other parts.
Instead, after a little testing (moving the coils around and seeing which cylinder was misfiring) I was able to narrow it down and I replaced a SINGLE ignition coil pack and all the problems went away. Ilding became smooth, and the overdrive started to work again.
It seems the RX300 can have a coil pack fail, which then causes that cylinder to miss. The resultant vibration sets off the knock sensor (and corresponding code). The activation of the knock sensor then sets off the Lexus "limp home mode", which prevents overdrive from engaging.
You could chase knock sensors or other repairs, but in my case I was able to determine it was just one failed coil pack. Once that was replaced, the codes were cleared, and the car now runs fine 100%. Be double sure that before you go replacing knock sensors that you first deliberately rule out that you don't just have a failed coil pack causing the failure and somehow triggering the ultra sensitive knock sensor. If you don't get to the source of the problem, then just replacing the knock sensor won't solve your problem.
I said be DOUBLE SURE that you don't just have a failed coil pack and here's why: I initially had the coils individually tested, and the (voltage) test showed they were fine. But the test itself was faulty. Had I listened to that mechanic, I would have replaced a whole bunch of parts rather than just the one coil. Instead of accepting his diagnosis, I asked him to move the coils around one at a time. Each time, I would check the codes to see if it was, say, cylinder no.1 or no.3 or whatever. Within a few tries I narrowed it down to the exact cylinder no., and then replaced just that one coil. Started it back up and it was smooth as butter again. So don't just rely on a voltage/amp test. Actually physically move the coil to another cylinder, and see if that cylinder acts up.
Just an FYI, I had the same problem with my 99 RX 300. I anticipated having to replace the knock sensors and other parts.
Instead, after a little testing (moving the coils around and seeing which cylinder was misfiring) I was able to narrow it down and I replaced a SINGLE ignition coil pack and all the problems went away. Ilding became smooth, and the overdrive started to work again.
It seems the RX300 can have a coil pack fail, which then causes that cylinder to miss. The resultant vibration sets off the knock sensor (and corresponding code). The activation of the knock sensor then sets off the Lexus "limp home mode", which prevents overdrive from engaging.
You could chase knock sensors or other repairs, but in my case I was able to determine it was just one failed coil pack. Once that was replaced, the codes were cleared, and the car now runs fine 100%. Be double sure that before you go replacing knock sensors that you first deliberately rule out that you don't just have a failed coil pack causing the failure and somehow triggering the ultra sensitive knock sensor. If you don't get to the source of the problem, then just replacing the knock sensor won't solve your problem.
I said be DOUBLE SURE that you don't just have a failed coil pack and here's why: I initially had the coils individually tested, and the (voltage) test showed they were fine. But the test itself was faulty. Had I listened to that mechanic, I would have replaced a whole bunch of parts rather than just the one coil. Instead of accepting his diagnosis, I asked him to move the coils around one at a time. Each time, I would check the codes to see if it was, say, cylinder no.1 or no.3 or whatever. Within a few tries I narrowed it down to the exact cylinder no., and then replaced just that one coil. Started it back up and it was smooth as butter again. So don't just rely on a voltage/amp test. Actually physically move the coil to another cylinder, and see if that cylinder acts up.
05-31-2015, 11:41 PM
#4
It might be possible but then you would be getting a different code.
A miss is different from a knock unless you have a ECM issue a miss will trip the Mil
What you have now is no signal from the knock sensors .
This means the ECM does not see them
A miss is different from a knock unless you have a ECM issue a miss will trip the Mil
What you have now is no signal from the knock sensors .
This means the ECM does not see them
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