oil filter relocation kit
#1
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oil filter relocation kit
On my 04 tacoma V6 finally had enough for changing the oil filter. This is for those that want to install the relocation kit. on my tacoma the oil filter part number is 90915-yzzd1 that is a toyota part number. The filters threads are 3/4-16. I ordered the following from summit racing trd-1113 for 60 bucks shipped. comes with hoses and fittings. i have installed a similar on my race car years ago. i will install and let the community know how it goes.
for what its worth you can use any oil filter as long as the adapter is 3/4-16.
-steve
for what its worth you can use any oil filter as long as the adapter is 3/4-16.
-steve
#3
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I've been considering doing one of those on my 3.0 the filter is in a major PITA location behind the alt. and above the axle. I've heard they can leak pretty profusely though, very interested to see how your install goes and hear your impressions/observations.
x2 on the pics
x2 on the pics
#4
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Hmm, those relocation kits would be nice, but I have no troubles changing out the filter. I don't even remove or turn the wheel. Just reach through the driver's side wheel well and unscrew. It does end up spilling, so that would be a benefit with the kit. However, I personally don't think it's worth it. Now, the oil filters on my Honda's--they are a PITA sometimes!
#5
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i used one of those kits on my 4runner once, (97, 3.4, 5Spd) and it was a pain in the #$% to install and the hoses just wouldnt stay on. If i were you and i really wanted to do this--i would source the parts and build my own with quality hoses and AN fittings.
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x3 on those AN fittings and quality lines I did'nt realise that they were not included as part of the kit. I may have to come up with something of my own...and sell it... at a reasonable [non-gouging] profit .
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#8
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Work out the kinks before i do my head job and you may have a customer.
Quality lines--ones that will basically last a lifetime--
Quality lines--ones that will basically last a lifetime--
#9
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I lost my 3.0 to a similar kit, when a hose blew off. Lost the oil in a hell of a hurry, and turned my engine into a 400 lb. paper weight.
When I did my 3.4 conversion, I re-installed the kit, but I also ran full high pressure hydraulic hoses and fittings. I installed the fittings with hydraulic sealant, and I also used blue locktite on the threads of the swivel fittings on the hoses (NOT the mating surfaces!) I have not seen any leaks, yet, in over a year, and more than 12,000 miles.
When I did my 3.4 conversion, I re-installed the kit, but I also ran full high pressure hydraulic hoses and fittings. I installed the fittings with hydraulic sealant, and I also used blue locktite on the threads of the swivel fittings on the hoses (NOT the mating surfaces!) I have not seen any leaks, yet, in over a year, and more than 12,000 miles.
#11
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Is it possible to install a beeper on the oil pressure, in the event you have low pressure. Maybe you can place the beeper under the steering column.
just my 2 cents
Rajin.
just my 2 cents
Rajin.
#13
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i have a similar kit on my mr2 race car. Of course i used -8 an lines and never had an issue.
I recommend that you DO NOT buy the kit that one long hose and/or attaches to the nipple with a hose clamp! the kit TRD-1113 has brass fittings and 2 pre-made hoses which look to be pretty decent. They are the same hoses that came with the kit for my race car. the NPT thread needs teflon tape or some sort of equivalent sealant.
On my race car i never had a leaking issue. #1 thing is to make sure the o-ring is sitting in the groove properly. $.10 o-ring will bring anything to a halt!
the adapters use 1/2 NPT to -8 an rubber lines.
The way i plumbed it on my race car is, 4x 1/2NPT to -8 fittings and then 4x -8 90 degree swivel fittings ($) and then 10 ft of -8 ss braided hose. Over kill but never leaked. the fittings and line cost close to 200 bucks. line is about $10/ft.
TO keep the cost down you can use the brass npt fittings that come with the kit. when i get it i will take pics and post.
-steve
I recommend that you DO NOT buy the kit that one long hose and/or attaches to the nipple with a hose clamp! the kit TRD-1113 has brass fittings and 2 pre-made hoses which look to be pretty decent. They are the same hoses that came with the kit for my race car. the NPT thread needs teflon tape or some sort of equivalent sealant.
On my race car i never had a leaking issue. #1 thing is to make sure the o-ring is sitting in the groove properly. $.10 o-ring will bring anything to a halt!
the adapters use 1/2 NPT to -8 an rubber lines.
The way i plumbed it on my race car is, 4x 1/2NPT to -8 fittings and then 4x -8 90 degree swivel fittings ($) and then 10 ft of -8 ss braided hose. Over kill but never leaked. the fittings and line cost close to 200 bucks. line is about $10/ft.
TO keep the cost down you can use the brass npt fittings that come with the kit. when i get it i will take pics and post.
-steve
Last edited by ssrmr2; 03-26-2008 at 06:59 AM.
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I did that in 01. I seem recall I used a 15 PSI (for faster response) oil switch hooked to a buzzer in my dash. I kept the stock idiot light. With the buzzer no need to watch a gauge or a light.
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just got the kit delivered from summit, 2 days! There are some differences from the kits 5-6 years ago. the hoses come with female 1/2 npt fittings. they removed the -8 to 1/2 npt brass fitting that use to be supplied. I am thinking about using these lines. I will add 2 fittings; 90 degree 1/2 npt male-female adapter. that way the pre-fab'd lines will not loop around the alt belt.
also for anyone else getting this kit, you can as an option, port or smooth out the transition to help make a better flow pattern, over kill but its the minor things that make a difference. also will need to remove some of the flashing from the casting. i will have to show before and after pics on this.
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I want to do this just to avoid spilling oil everywhere when I pull the filter. I also recently purchased a Fumoto Drain Valve to drain the oil. I bought the one with a nipple on the end so I can attach a hose to it to drain the oil with no mess.
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ok i finally got around to installing the damn thing. sorry for the delay.
first i recommend getting the kit that does not come with the fittings installed on the hose. buy the kit that has the hose in a 8ft length and then cut and slip on the barb fittings and a hose clamp on top. I ended up cutting some of the hose so that it wouldnt be all over the place in the engine bay. also take note that this hose attracts grease! they will be greasy by the time you are done. mine are.
mounting location. I found a threaded hole on the drivers side frame rail just behind the radiator, I then marked a spot so that i can drill and tap an additional hole. you need at least 2 spots to hold the relocator.
pull the old oil filter, and replace it with the new adapter. make sure that the new o-ring is in place and has a thin film of new oil. screw on and snug down.
this next part will take the longest. the dumb hoses. not alot of room i ended up using AN wrenches that my friend has at his shop. make sure that the hose goes on the relocator FIRST before you tighten them down on the adapter which is on the block. otherwise its 2 times the work. I will admit it, i did it and had to redo everything 2 times. sucks.
once everything was tightened down, i poured fresh oil into the new filter, let it soak in, and then refilled it and put a film on the gasket then proceeded to install it on the relocator. snug down hand tight. double check everything, and then moment of truth. start car.
like every other mod that is done on any of yoru personal cars. It always feels like you have more power and that there is a leak! lol uploading pics.
oh yeah i will be putting on a setrab oil cooler and SS lines and real AN fittings. for those that have the cash do it with AN fittings right off the bat.
i touched the lines after the 15 min drive home and damn its hot!
-steve
-steve
first i recommend getting the kit that does not come with the fittings installed on the hose. buy the kit that has the hose in a 8ft length and then cut and slip on the barb fittings and a hose clamp on top. I ended up cutting some of the hose so that it wouldnt be all over the place in the engine bay. also take note that this hose attracts grease! they will be greasy by the time you are done. mine are.
mounting location. I found a threaded hole on the drivers side frame rail just behind the radiator, I then marked a spot so that i can drill and tap an additional hole. you need at least 2 spots to hold the relocator.
pull the old oil filter, and replace it with the new adapter. make sure that the new o-ring is in place and has a thin film of new oil. screw on and snug down.
this next part will take the longest. the dumb hoses. not alot of room i ended up using AN wrenches that my friend has at his shop. make sure that the hose goes on the relocator FIRST before you tighten them down on the adapter which is on the block. otherwise its 2 times the work. I will admit it, i did it and had to redo everything 2 times. sucks.
once everything was tightened down, i poured fresh oil into the new filter, let it soak in, and then refilled it and put a film on the gasket then proceeded to install it on the relocator. snug down hand tight. double check everything, and then moment of truth. start car.
like every other mod that is done on any of yoru personal cars. It always feels like you have more power and that there is a leak! lol uploading pics.
oh yeah i will be putting on a setrab oil cooler and SS lines and real AN fittings. for those that have the cash do it with AN fittings right off the bat.
i touched the lines after the 15 min drive home and damn its hot!
-steve
-steve
Last edited by ssrmr2; 04-15-2008 at 02:06 PM. Reason: missing info