4Hummer

Long Post Sorry in advance

Well Guys My truck is dead. sitting at the side of the road. I kicked the truck and than cried and gave her a hug (She didn't deserve that)

22RE, Automatic

Heres the history. Past couple of days the truck has been acting weird. No power from a stop (4 out of 10 times), RPM were fine, just not putting power to the wheels rpms would go up to just under 3000 before she would move, If I shifted to L than 2 than D no problem. figured either the auto tranny was giving me problems or a bad vacuum line (Tranny fluid was changed a couple months back). I Was gonna look at the truck this weekend with my buddy who is a toyota mech and do some other needed maintance (replace belts and some other stuff)

On the way to work today the Check engine light came on and the truck Died. I pulled over to the side of the road. and Cry, Yell, Scream, Kick truck, cry some more, Hug truck and try to start again
The engine would turn over but not start. also sounded wierd turning over like no drag or resistance on the engine ???? (Broke Timming Chain are my thoughts)

I left the truck at the side of the road and walked the rest of the way to work.

Im thinking Maybe the timming chain Broke (One of those things I KNEW I had to do but kept putting it off) Could this be? If the chain did break have I ruined the engine by trying to start it? If its the Auto tranny the truck would still start right ?

If I've buggered the engine (ie: need a valve job) the truck will be parked and Ill will swap the engine to a 305 or 4.3 (As I can get these engines for under $300) Im not going to spend a ton of cash rebuilding an underpowered 4Cylinder

What are your thoughts. I'll hopefully be picking the truck up tonight and towing it home with a buddies trailer.

Thoughts ? Suggestions ? Advise ? HELP..........

4x4Lamm

I'm not sure about the 4bangers but my V6 has a non interface head. Timing can be compleatly off and nothing contacts in the engine. You would have herd metal clashing too I bet.

Whenever something doesn't start I start by removing a plug. This allows you to check for both spark and fuel delivery.

Make sure you don't overlook the small stuff too. The vane air flow meter stuck maybe? Fuel line clogged? Bad gas?

Sorry I can't help more.

Lamm

Slowrunner

Fuel Pump maybe.

superjoe83

take the cap off the distributor and see if the rotor spins when you crank it, if not=chain broke

Fahrenheit 451

22re is an interference engine. If the chain broke, the chorus of valves hitting pistons would have let you know.
I'm casting my vote for the fuel pump or alternator. Last one I had that had the fuel pump die started with the truck not having much pickup from a dead stop and then some surging problems. After that, It stopped dead.
I think you can check for pressure easiest by cranking the banjo bolt(?) on the cold start injector a bit and seeing if you get any fuel. Otherwise, you'll have to pull a regular fuel line somewhere to see.
Also, if the alternator took a dump you don't get any power to the injectors and EFI motors don't like that one bit.
I say test the alternator and fuel pump first.
Just a newbies opine.

Blair

Hey, anyone who can do to the 4Hummer that which YOU have will not be beaten by some silly 'no start' condition. I suggest starting with the simple stuff and move from there. As said above, the 4cyl IS an interference type engine. All the screaming in the world would not muffle the sounds of valve detonating. Let us know how you make out.
I know you're somewhere in Ontario, didn't you once say you were down around London? Too far for me to help, but others from here may see your plight and pitch in.

4Hummer

got the truck home tonight. Called in a favor from some members of my 4x4 club. (God bless them) the truck is back home in the driveway.

I will test the fuel pump tommorrow, And alternator, Than pop the valve cover and check the timming chain (and as my buddy mentioned) the cam shaft (he's seen at least 2 22RE's snap a cam shaft in half)

I will update this thread tommorrow on the condition of everything.


Quick question. Whats the easiest way to test the alternator ?

Blair

I'm pretty sure you can measure resistance across the diodes.
I'm just checking the FSM now...
Do you mean on or off the vehicle?
All the on-vehicle testing requires the ability to run the engine.There are several tests you can do off-the-vehicle, would you like those?

4Hummer

If the only on vechile test you can do must have the engine running than I'll have to bench test it.

If you could dig up the steps on how to test the alternator off the vechile that would be great.

Thanks

99_Runner

I hope that you figure everything out. Maybe their is a 302 or 4.3 swap sometime in your near future. That will make your 4Runner that much cooler.

Blair

Why do you suspect the alternator?

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AxleIke

your timing chain can slip too, (ie, it jumps a tooth or two on the wheels) which would cause the complete loss of power, but not have the valves hit the pistons...if this is the case, you need to replace the timing chain, and the guides...otherwise just swap in the new engine...

snap-on

pull it off and take it up to the local parts place that has a test machine....

but even if it was a bad alternator it should run off the battery, which isnt a hesitating at startup problem.... more like it just starts to die, and the CE plus the Bat light come one.

fuel delivery... or other major mechanical engine prob would be my guess.

callmej75

I'm betting it jumped a tooth on the timing chain.

4Hummer

Well here is the problem.


Broking timing chain.


Looks like the only damage was to the valve cover,


I decided I'm going to replace the head anyway due to the fact I have an exhaust mainifold leak at the head, the Bolts are stripped they have been helicoiled once, and tapped out once.

I picked up a head from a buddy of mine for $80 CDN.. he said the head was complete... BOY WAS IT EVER.
I Have never seen anyone remove a head like this, Intake mainfold, Exhaust mainifold, still on, all the wiring, fuel rails, and injectors are still attached. all the little doo dads and everything...



I'm going to reuse my throttle body, and keep the ones off this head as spares, Maybe even sell everything for someone wanting to do and EFI Swap.
(It would be complete as picture only problem would be the gash in the vavle cover, and the stripped exhaust mainifold holes easy fix, all you would need is the wiring and computer)

This is how I left everything last night, Throttle body removed, and intake removed

I've ordered a new head gasket, new timing chain kit, new Head bolts, and all new belts.

Ill update everyone as things progress. And try and get pics of the engine bay, BOY do you ever have to remove allot to get the head and timing chain off.

4Hummer

Also I wanted to ask. I Broke two of the head bolts off in the head, I pulled out about 1.5 inches of the bolt, Anyone know if the bolts are easy to get out once the head is off ????

Fahrenheit 451

LCEngineering had been hunting cores. Maybe if you sent them two throttle bodies and two intakes they'd cut you a deal on a big bore throttle body and honed intake or cam. Long shot, but heck anything helps.
I'm surprised to see a broken chain and no apparent damage. Everything I have ever heard about the 22re and broken chains said valve and or piston damage as the result. Maybe you got lucky and the valve train spins freely enough with the chain gone that they just got pushed out of the way ??
Not surprisingly, I was wrong again LOL! I wish I had been right on at least the fuel delivery. That would have saved you a pile. I know when my fuel pump went out on my '85 it had very similar symptoms except for the ease of turning over the engine
There should be plenty of head bolt left to get ahold of once you get the head off. I guess the only real problem will be if the remaining segments interfere with pulling the head up.
I guess I'll go out in the garage and look at my red '93 2nd gen 4Runner and make a little sacrifice to the Toyota gods so they might look the other way when it's my turn for the Toy to take a dump.
Good luck!

4Hummer

Well I haven't pulled the head off yet. BUT HOPEFULLY everything is okay with the pistions. not to worried about the Valves as the new head has the valves and cam allready on it.

Sending everything to LC sounds like a good idea, But I dont have the time for this.. Or the funds, this is my DD and I need it up and running soon.

But maybe if I send them the old head and intake they'll cut me a deal on some other parts??? Thanks for the tip.

phorunninduke

They are not paying that much for cores.

Was the chain guide damnaged at all? I have found that as long as the guide was still together then the engine probably did not suffer any damage. Between the block and the head on the right side is where the guide brakes and the chain wears through and causes HG problems.

4Hummer

Guide is totally missing from the Drivers side and broken in a couple places on the passenger side.

Im going to try and pull the head off tommorrow night if I get some time