Swede

I've seen a ton of posts requesting answers to questions such as: "how many miles on your (enter part name here)?" So I thought that we could use a thread that lists the various OEM parts that have outright failed or that we've had to replace through normal wear and tear along with the mileage that you got out of them and the symptoms that describe the problem.

Here's mine...
Battery @ 80,000 klm's (Died)
Fuel Filter @ 95,000 klm's (Failed - Engine Stuttering)
E-Brake Pivots @100,000 klm's (Seized)
Left Rear Signal Lamp @ 130,000 klm's (Failed)
Left Rear Sway-Bar Link @ 135,000 klm's (Broken)
Timing Belt and Water Pump @ 150,000 klm's (Service Due)
Clock @ 150,000 klm's (Failed)
TPS @ 160,000 klm's (Failed - Irratic Idle)
Starter Contacts @ 165,000 klm's (Failed - Won't Turn Engine)
New Vehicle Keys cut @ 170,000 klm's (worn out - Couldn't Turn Ignition)
Rear Bumper @ 170,000 klm's (Rusted)
Rear Cargo Light Bulb @ 175,000 klm's (Failed)
Front Sway Bar Bushings @ 180,000 klm's (Failed)
Front O2 Sensor @ 185,000 klm's (Failed - CEL & Lower Fuel Economy)
Left CV Axle Boots @ 190,000klm's (Cracked - replaced them all)
Front Transfer Case Output Seal @ 196,000 klm's (weeping)
Alternator, Power Steering, and AC Belts @ 201,000 km's (Belts cracked but not broken)
Steering Rack Bushings @ 210,000 klm's (worn out)
Right Rear Wheel Bearing and Inner Seal @ 215,000 klm's (worn out)
Another Battery @ 222,000 (dying alternator killed it)
Alternator @ 222,000 (bearings got noisy, no output)
Left Rear Brake Light @ 222,000
LBJ's @ 225000 (didn't want to risk it any longer)
Rear Heater Lines @ 230000 (smell and coolant drip)
Alternator Plug @235000 (wire insulation cracked and one wire broke off)
Rear Cargo Light Switch @236000 (Fail - haven't replaced it)
Driver Side Key Tumbler @236500 (won't unlock the door - Swapped with the Pass Door)
Brakes @235000 (Upgraded to 231mm Tundra Brakes, old set were original and still had 1/3 pad left)
Clutch @237000 (Upgraded to #1200 lb Marlin Set-up)
Lift Gate Struts @245000 (Got weak and stiff)
Valve Cover Gaskets @250000 (Leaking, replaced)

That's all I can think of, so let's see what you've had to do...

BigBallsMcFalls

A/F sensor 132,000 miles
O/2 sensor 138,000 miles


Front sway bar link snapped 120,000
Rear sway bar link snapped 184,000

Rear heater tubes corroded 92,000

Rear OEM shock broke out of tower 98,000

Rear brake pivots seized (neglect, not toyota problem) 110,000

ummm, that is all I guess

----
update

radiator milkshaked, 190,000
TPS sensor 198,000
rear defrost element died, I used that rear window constantly 198,000
rear driver side windows motor almost dead, 160,000-<-->today, all others like new
driver lumbar motor almost dead, 181,000 <--> today
rear axle seals leaked, 211,000

that is really all that ever died. Motor is as sweet as day 1.

Elton

all i can think of is the axle seal at 140k then again at 178k first one wasn't a quality oem one that all i think thats failed

TheDurk

Failed:
Clock(doesn't light up--not replaced) 60k
Battery (dead) 80k(7 years)
Front O2 (CEL) 80k
Rear O2 (CEL) 110k
Swaybar bushings shimmy, looked bad 110k
Swaybar End link (snapped) 120k
Rack Bushings (shimmy) 122k
Several bulbs, I don't keep track.
Maintenance:
Fuel Filter 100k
TB,WP, Tensioner,Belts, Thermostat 120k
Shocks (all 4) 128k
Fan Clutch (died) 130k
Battery #2 133k
Antenna Mast 144k
Clutch, Shift seats, bushing 154k
Starter Contacts, Slave Cyl (P/M w/clutch 154k
Rear Main Seal, weeping slightly 154k

Yukon

Rear Axle seals >99k miles
Power Steering pump ~105,000 miles.
Seals Are starting to go now at 113k
Rear Ebrake pivots seized 112,000

Swede

Anyone else?

scuba

TPS, 110k miles. Just getting CEL's and weird idle on cold starts
Fuel filter and spark plugs were done at 105k. Preventative
112k replaced clutch slave and master. Was just trying to pinpoint my hard 1st gear shifting. Ended up replacing the clutch at 120k which wasn't OEM.
Too many air filters only because I wheel too much. ( is that possible?)
Replace the 2.7 manifold at 100k when I bought the truck. It was cracked.
Battery at 135k. Who knows if it was original. Wouldn't hold a charge
Starter contacts at 105K. Intermitent no crank issue.
All 4 Balljoints at 134K miles. Outter tie rods at the same time. I desperatly need inner tie rod ends. At 144K

I think that's it.
Love every minuet of it

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I take it these vehicles are just being used for a daily commute .

No off road use or racing .

Is this correct ?

What are these E-Brake pivots that are failing I asked my Toyota Dealer parts people and they had no idea ??

Swede

I use mine regularly off-road. Not hardcore stuff usually but it definitely sees a lot of mile's throughout the year and I definitely don't beat on the thing. It's also my DD.

The e-brake pivots are the levers that are attached to the backing plate at the rear wheels. They tend to sieze up over time as there is a lot of corrosion at the pivot point. IIRC they may also be known as the "bell cranks" but I'm not sure if that's entirely accurate.

scuba

That statement is entirely false for me. I've been putting my junk to the test almost ever other weekend for the past year and a half. I wheel hard but I don't abuse her. The only part failures of mine that have been from heavy offroad use is the tie rod ends and ball joints.
Click the my taco link in my signature and you'll see I actually wheel my junk. And my truck is still my DD.

Swede

bumpity

Swede

Updated my list again.

TheDurk

Updated mine, too.

habanero

Estimated in miles:
Door lock actuators, left front and right rear worked intermittently since I bought it at 119,666 - repaired both for around $10
Antenna, broken when I bought it- replaced mast for under $25
Fan switch 240,000- repaired for free
OBD II port issue- repaired for free
Clock 220,000- repaired for free
Door jamb switch, left 250,000- repaired for free
Rear door latch light actuator, 220,000- repaired for free
Rear defrost 210,000- repaired for free
Rear courtesy light 210,000- repaired for free
Small ID coolant hoses, 2 leaking at 260,000 miles so replaced all for around $80
Throttle body sticking 250,000- repaired for free
Starter contacts, 200,000- repaired for around $20
E-brake cable, 250,000- repaired for under $45
Catalytic Converter, 240,000- repaired for cost of parts
Radiator, 240,000- repaired for cost of part
Clutch, 220,000- repaired for cost of part
Warped rotors replaced with Brembo blanks around 130,000, then replaced with Tundra set-up at 220,000 after living with mildly warped rotors again for around 75,000 miles.

LOTS of maintenance, ball joints, fuel filter, tb, belts, hoses, bulbs, o2 sensors and the like. Post 2 of my build thread if you really want to know, but timely for the most part. Thank goodness for people who've shared their fixes, experiences and ideas, they've made keeping the cost down and dealing with the issues so much easier. It's part of the reason my build thread has morphed to what it is.

Mild to moderate wheeling, daily driver.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It looks like OEM parts can last as long as a marriage

Some a few years others Forever.

Swede

Updated

DailyDrive

1. tail light stop bulb - 82k (replaced)
2. 3rd light stop light bulb - 95k (replaced)
3. front O2 sensor - 105k (replaced)
4. rear O2 sensor - 116k (simulator)

That's it. Nothing else failed unexpectedly in 15 years.

Just preventative maintenance, external ATF cooler, new shocks, new tires, new brake pads, end links, bushings, cleaning breather, etc. All the common ailments can be fixed before they fail unexpectedly.

y2kltdsport

iTrader: (1)

guess I got a better one?? close to 350K , I just replaced upper and lower ball joints and inner outer t.r.e.'s, the parts were still good! just did it for piece of mind.
other than that 1 set starter contacts, 1 O2 sensor & 1 coilpack, 1 front swaybar end link
then mods and just regular maintenence stuff ie. brakes, plugs,tb service etc
truck looks like it has 50K on it, rides great
never owned a more reliable vehicle, all power options still work fine too

Swede

Another Update

Mikkydee

1996 TACOMA 4x4 3.4 LITER
Purchased at 150,000 miles. Current Mileage 270,000
In the 10 years I have owned it I have replaced fuel pump, battery X2, starter, radiator, plugs, wires, alternator belt, shocks and struts, tail gate straps, brakes and rotors. Last year I replaced the fluid in transmission, axle, and transfer case. I can not give actual mileage on the timing of the above parts replacements as I don't keep paper records
And as a matter of long overdue maintenance I also am in the middle of a project to replace timing belt, water pump, AC idler pulley, timing belt tensioner, camshaft belt tensioner, camshaft belt idler, crank and cam seals, belts, PCV valve and grommet, valve cover gaskets, crankshaft gear, hydraulic timing belt tensioner, timing cover gaskets, thermostat, crankshaft bolt, and valve cover gaskets.