b1gmoose

Long time lurker here. Long post. Hopefully there are others in upstate NY, VT, or NH that can benefit from knowing there is a dealership that does it right.

I've read all the bad threads about poorly done frame replacements. So I wanted to let everyone know that poor frame swaps are not always the case.

I just picked up my 2003 Tacoma 4x4 w/ 134K miles on it. 802 Toyota (http://www.802toyota.com/index.htm) installed the new frame and associated parts. I dropped it off last Saturday and they started it on Monday. Total cost to me: $144 and change.

Zero complaints. The service manager kept me informed via email during the project.

Truck sits just like it did at 43K miles when I bought it in Feb 2009. It rides smooth. The cab and bed are level and lined up. I got a print out of the alignment and everything is within spec. It drives straight and does not pull or wander. E-brake cable works better than before.

802 Toyota has a full time tech (or maybe 2) that has been doing frame swaps for the last 2 years. They have a pile of almost 20 rusted frames out back. When they take them for scrap metal they donate the proceeds to a local charity.

So why was my bill $144 and change? I knew eventually I would be getting a new frame and have deferred some maintenance items for that reason.

I the dealer install my RS5000's. The charge for the fronts was $80. Rear's were no charge. I needed my treadwrights re-balanced and rotated. Before I had a little unbalance shake/vibration. I figured it was the nature of the beast with the treadwrights. But now there is no vibration/unbalance. The service manager also let me know my rear diff breather was FUBAR with mud/etc and not working. That was $26 or so. And 1 indicator bulb for less than $2.

I did get a long list of things that they wanted to take care of, but I will be doing them this weekend. Keep in mind this truck has 134K miles and I bought it in Feb of 09 with 43K miles. I was also deployed for Operation New Dawn from last Oct to May.

So the list is as follows from their courtesy pre-inspection (I can't remember the prices for any of this):
V-belts are old and cracked.
Oil pan is rusted and possibly leaking oil (I check my oil weekly and it doesn't leak or smell like gas).
Front brakes pads are at the minimum and outer pads are not making contact with the rotors. Suggest turning the rotors and getting new pads. These are the OEM brakes.
Spark plugs have a large gap.

I passed on all of the above because I don't have an extra $800-900 to spend at dealership parts and labor prices.

But the things I'll be doing (I have been trolling the internet and getting discount codes for Advance Auto and rebates for almost every part).

New Bosch plugs (have $8 rebate)
New O2 sensors (1/2 price w/ coupon codes)
Rancho RS5000's (shaved 40% off the MSRP and $25 rebate)
Bosch Oil filter (have $5 rebate)
Mobil 1 5w30 (have $12 rebate on 5 qts)
Wagner brake thermoquiet pads/shoes ($52 w/ discount codes + $30 rebate coming)
Turn rotors ($15 ea) and drums ($12 ea).
And throw in a few random cans of cleaners/greases/etc.

Once next Monday rolls around I'll have almost a brand new truck. Minus some dents and rust on the bed and cab.

~ryan

b1gmoose

I have one thing that has been pestering me with rust and Toyota's. And given enough people complained about the frames for years, how long will it take for Toyota to do something about the rear axle housing?

I had a 94 PU and a 93 PU both of which had perforations through the axle housing on the reward side at the sump. The 94 had a lubrication failure and cost me a little to fix as it as a 5speed with 4.30 gears. I had to get a front and rear 4.10 set to get going again. As well as welding some thicker metal to the housing. My 93 I started off right when I got it and took care of the housing as it was just beginning to weep.

Now my Tacoma has a rusty axle housing, but no weeping/leaking. A google search will show you that even the 2000's and newer housings are just as bad.

The problems as they could/should be addressed to Toyota:
1. Structural integrity of the axle housing and possible cause/effect in an accident.
2. Lubrication failure at freeway speeds and cause/effect on maintaining control if it is a catastrophic mechanical failure from lack of lubrication.
3. The environmental damage from millions of trucks, 4runners, tundra's, etc leaking gear oil through perforations in the rusted rear axle housing.


Item 3 can also apply to my oil pan. It is looking rusty, but not weeping any oil that I can see. I'll have to sand it down and get some POR-15.

Items 1, 2, and 3 could possibly apply to the front diff. Although I haven't searched to see if that rusts through and leaks.

~ryan

narfy

i would put anything but bosch spark plugs into that truck... NGK or toyota (denso) plugs would be my choice...

b1gmoose

I have put about 700 miles on the truck since I got it back. Everything still seems to be ok.

I have no reference point as to new NGK/Denso plugs vs. new Bosch plugs. The ones I pulled out were original from the factory with 134K miles and the electrode still had 1mm+- remaining, but the gap was huge.

The Bosch Iridiums seem to be doing well. The idle is smoother than with the worn out plugs. Maintaining speed up some steep hills doesn't involve as much downshifting as before.

But time will tell.

~ryan

Nuthuts96

iTrader: (1)

Good to know about 802! (actually, just bought a corolla that was sitting on their lot since new that was swapped with Heritage).

but those bosch plugs, like the advice above, is a no-go...

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...-users-beware/

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/mainte...lugs-suck.html

most importantly, your owner's manual specifies Denso or NGK. (remember- this advice is coming from the engineers who made the motor...)
when i changed my plugs/wires 2 months ago, it made a WORLD of difference- went with the NGK's printed in the manual.

good luck!

b1gmoose

I've got those links open and will read them. I do appreciate the links and input from everybody here. I have read a little on the Bosch issue, but it appears the issue at heart is the multi electrode plugs. The iridium's are a single electrode plug. Once I get 5K or 10K I'll pull them and visually inspect them for proper cylinder combustion. If it is negative or positive I will report back to yotatech.


802 Toyota has been fairly good to me. I'm DIY for as much as possible. But the few times I have gone there for recall/warranty work I have never suffered bill shock.

I had a 93 Pickup with an engine, trans, etc from a 94 pickup, and an interior (dash+vin) from another 94 pickup. Basically a salvage title truck. I took it to them with an unknown number of frankenstein miles for a steering relay rod recall. The tech verified that the 93 VIN on the frame and did the recall. They also installed new tierods because the others were too rusty to do an alignment with. $0 cost to me.

~ryan