guitarsncars

i have a problem..on my intake side of an '85 4runner 22re auto, theres a green connector..looks exactly like an injector connector, but only green, not white. I need to know where that connects to. Also, I have a male end connection coming out of my starter, but no extra wires from my harness. any ideas? It has PS and AC. I just got done doing a rebuild....now the truck runs, but sounds like a dang tractor. horrible sound. like an extreme valve clearance problem. but its not. Im trying to learn about the TPS adjustment and all that good stuff, but im not too electronically inclined. I got a bumped cam and some headers on it now, and bored over block of 30. but, the batt wont hold a charge, and the truck cuts out after X amount of time. Like its starved of fuel. But, again...its not.

Salue

I'm not sure if there's a big difference in wiring harnesses between 2nd gen and first gens but you can try checking this site out.

manual

downlowad the whole 4runner files.zip or just the one that you're interested in. I hope this helps....

At least I didn't just read and not reply this time

Salue

guitarsncars

hahaha..your the coolest. ill check that site out and let you know

guitarsncars

bump...oh, and p.s. - the wiring is different

Yoda

The starter wire is not used. Let me run out and look at the 85 22re in the driveway for the green connector.
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Only green one on ours connects to a vacuum switch on top of the valve cover. Its too dark outside, but I think it controls vacuum to the fuel presure regulator (thats what the 87 book shows). Our truck is also a 5 speed, not auto. Was the cam listed as being for an EFI engine? Timing chain correctly set? Engine coolant temp sensor for EFI good? No intake leaks, or leaks between the air flow meter and the throttle body?
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The only book I have is for an 87 (keep getting outbid on ebay for the 85)

Fahrenheit 451

Check the headers to see if there are air injection holes in the flange. When I had the new exhaust system put on, I took it to the muffler shop and pulled the old exhaust manifold myself in the parking area behind their shop to save their incredibly ridiculous price ($125 to pull the manifold and put the headers on!) I slapped the headers on, not connected to the exhaust and drove it around to the shop and went home. Like most, it seems, businesses dealing with auto repairs they didn't call me after they finished. I finally called and asked what the hold up was and they said "Oh yeah, that's been finished for a couple hours, but it sounds really bad." Bozos.
Anyway, I got down there and sure enough, it sounded like a tractor. They couldn't figure it out. I pointed right at the header flange and said, "The air injection block plates aren't on."
The reply, "Oh."
I had missed them in the hurry to get the truck in the shop early and they were just plain clueless. You would think that all that noise coming right out by the headers would have been a clue, duh. The old air injection block plates will be located on roughly the top of the old manifold. There will be two of them held on by 6 bolts. They look like trapezoids with rounded corners.
Have you checked the wiring to the alterator to make sure it is properly plugged in and connected? EFIs will run like dogs and die like them too if they aren't getting enough current.

guitarsncars

nope..no injecton block off plates on hedmanns. unless they go before the header, between the gasket and the header? I know what your talking about though, Fahrenheit. The alternator is keeping a charge on the batt, but the batt has been sitting since early Nov. without use, so its hooked up fine, but never hurts to double-check.

Yoda: heres the cam i have . I know the switch your talking about, but it already has a green connector. Im assuming that my extra connector has something to do with my A.T. oil pressure/temperature sensor, seeing as how now i have the dummy light lit on my dash. heres some pics: pic 1 , pic 2 .

I suspect the main reason for running the way it is, is because only 1 and 3 cylinders are getting spark. 2 and 4 arent. Checked the plugs, the wires, the rotor and the cap. All ok. As well as the reluctor in the dist. Not sure how to check the pickup coil, though. Any ideas? I have an ACCELL double-stack coil, but that shouldnt matter...it was doing great before the rebuild. I need to check if im getting continous spark straight fromt the coil, though. Did the AFM mod, but am waiting to do the TPS until I have it running smoother. Im just not seeing why the 1 and 3 (opposite cylinders) are firing, and 2 and 4 (opposite cylinders also) arent firing....think its just a coincidence that cylinders opposite each other are and arent working?

Salue

Hey,
I didn't notice it before but you're also in Olympia? I have an fsm for an '87...Do you think those are the same? I can try to look at some diagrams, but I wouldn't know exactly what wire to look for. Also, those pics you tried posting wouldn't show for me.

Salue

Fahrenheit 451

I checked my '85 22re and I also have a green plug hanging below the plenum that seems to go nowhere and looks like it hasn't for a long time. On mine it is a square plug with a single terminal. If anybody comes up with a wiring diagram I would be interested in pics.
The last time mine was worked on (quite unsuccessfully) the mechanic said that he had a hell of time getting it running right after he put the head back on then he realized that he hadn't plugged in the one green plug into the igniter. Now it runs nice and smooth. Of course, it also shoots antifreeze out the overflow and runs oil out from between the head and the block...

guitarsncars

ok heres the new location of the pics . Salue, yes, Im in Olympia. Not presently, though. The FSM should be fairly on target. Nothing too distinctly different, minus the IFS, I would think. Would you mind looking up about an auto tranny oil pressor/temperature sensor for me?

Skydigger

I believe there's a connector in that region for Automatics which tells the engine/ECU not to start unless the tranny's in P or N.

Can't help otherwise...


Warren

Salue

I'm going to try to look for the sensor, not sure where to look in the fsm...AT section or engine section? I'll look into it. As far as that green connection, I remember from my '87 4runner when I had to replace my Neutral Start Switch, I noticed a green plug that didn't go anywhere. If only I had a pic of my old engine bay. I'm not sure if it's the same plug from your pic...It's kind of hard to tell...Can you get a closer pic, and maybe a side view of it also?

Salue

Yoda

OK Oly,
I bought a 85 FSM just to help you out. (just happens to be the year of my son's truck too)
list what you want to know, and I'll try Saturday to locate it for you. I have a scanner. The wire diagrams are about 30" long each (4 pages)

Bed time about 2 hours ago

Firefyter-Emt

Is this the plug for the knock sensor?? Is there a chance you do not have the knock sensor plugged in (or a block with out the knock sensor and the computer is looking for one??

guitarsncars

Yoda: you buy from the factory? how much? they gimme this toll free number that d/c's me everytime i call. anything about ignition system diagnosis/troubleshooting.

Firefyter: not the knock sensor. thats plugged in. p.s.-its my original block, so every hookup should have its on connector, nothing extra.. oh, and your profession....will one day be my profession

i replaced my distributor already....but the plug coming out of the signal pickup isnt green like my old one, but gray. maybe this was on later 22re models? well...now instead of 1 and 3 firing like before, w/the new dist. 1 and 4 are firing, but now its not cranking. But that because the combustion cycle isnt finishing, due to the 2 cylinders that are firing are on the same cycle (both hit tdc at the same time). WTF!!!!