Mechanic can't find what/where the noise is coming from?
#1
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Mechanic can't find what/where the noise is coming from?
I had the timing belt and water pumped changed. Also put new OME shocks and springs on. There is a noise when the car heats up that is rattling- chirping and we can't even locate where it's coming from. It only does it when on the gas slightly. Doesn't do it while in park or neutral. As soon as you let off the gas- the noise stops completely. It also doesn't do it all the time. Completely throwing them for a loop. Been completely under the car with rubber mallet and everything is tight. They even went over every nut/bolt that was changed/loosened while in the garage. Completely lost. You can hear the noise better with the windows rolled up. Any ideas??? LET'S HEAR THEM!!!!! The chassis was lubed to.
#2
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Did you remove the squeaky noise maker from the engine?!
Honestly, its gonna be hard to diagnose it on the internets.
Soo...its only when you're moving or just when you rev the engine up a little too?
Honestly, its gonna be hard to diagnose it on the internets.
Soo...its only when you're moving or just when you rev the engine up a little too?
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I have a noise that seems like a clattering sound when I am either going up hill or accelerating (like getting on the freeway), and it only does it before it downshifts to passing gear. Mine is very intermittent. Almost sounds like knocking or pinging, but much louder and higher frequency. Mine definitely seems to be from the engine.
Mine is also a 2000 4Runner 4WD
Mine is also a 2000 4Runner 4WD
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Doesn't do it when I rev the engine. Just moving and slightly touching the gas. Strange as hell. A rattle/chirp is the noise.
#6
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moving fast or slow? u-joints will squeak like a mofo if they're seized up.
If your mechanic can't find the noise, you should get a 2nd opinion from another shop.
If your mechanic can't find the noise, you should get a 2nd opinion from another shop.
#7
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Is this on a 3.0 if so check the fan idler bracket (Fake water pump)or the large idler for the timing belt.If you did not change them when you did the timing belt they might be giving you troubles now, at least the large idler. They gave me problems (noises )when I did my timing belt and did not change them. I Had to re do the timing belt and change the idlers .
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#8
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Don't worry- these guys pretty much gave up. I just greased all the joints. It's driving me %^^$$& nuts!!!!!
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when the noise starts pull over spray only one pulley with WD-40, get back in and try it again, one at a time you will know which one it is not, then move on to chassis parts and then Exhaust. you should find it by then or just be pissed off and out of WD-40
That's how I found out my Idler pulley was squeaking on my Cobra, sounded like a mouse under the hood
That's how I found out my Idler pulley was squeaking on my Cobra, sounded like a mouse under the hood
Last edited by needlepimp; 03-05-2009 at 08:06 PM.
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I had the timing belt and water pumped changed. Also put new OME shocks and springs on. There is a noise when the car heats up that is rattling- chirping and we can't even locate where it's coming from. It only does it when on the gas slightly. Doesn't do it while in park or neutral. As soon as you let off the gas- the noise stops completely. It also doesn't do it all the time. Completely throwing them for a loop. Been completely under the car with rubber mallet and everything is tight. They even went over every nut/bolt that was changed/loosened while in the garage. Completely lost. You can hear the noise better with the windows rolled up. Any ideas??? LET'S HEAR THEM!!!!! The chassis was lubed to.
I have a noise that seems like a clattering sound when I am either going up hill or accelerating (like getting on the freeway), and it only does it before it downshifts to passing gear. Mine is very intermittent. Almost sounds like knocking or pinging, but much louder and higher frequency. Mine definitely seems to be from the engine.
Mine is also a 2000 4Runner 4WD
Mine is also a 2000 4Runner 4WD
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87...It doesn't seem to be pinging, my Jeep does that with low octane fuel so I know the feel and sound of that...also I can make it do it every time. With this noise it may only do it once or twice a month and is much louder and faster.
Last edited by nieuwendyk-25; 03-05-2009 at 08:37 PM.
#12
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If it happens at slow (walking) speeds you can remove your rear driveshaft and wiggle the u-joints. That's how I found one of mine were bad (rear driveshaft, front u-joint). Only cost $30 for a new one. Installation was tricky though.
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tensioner ?
+ 1 to RMA's post. How many miles on the truck ? Was the idler/tension pulley replaced with the T belt ?...always worth the $ on any rig.
Last edited by alotawatts; 03-07-2009 at 12:55 AM.
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It wasn't on a 3.0 slow but how much money are we talking about for a 3.4? Why would this make noise only under power and not in park/neutral? In park/neutral- the engine/supercharger sounds perfect. The strangest thing is- it doesn't do it all the time.
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Noise here also...
Not trying to hijack this thread... but rather than start a new one:
I also just had the timing belt service done and now the engine sounds like a push-rod american V8 with sloppy lifters when going up hills or accelerating.
I'm on holiday in Raleigh, NC right now so there probably isn't too much I can do about it until I make the 700+ mile trip back home. But, I'm curious to know if anyone can lend some insight and/or has experienced this before. Oh, it may or may not be an issue, but the dealer I purchased it from put in 5-40 oil at the last oil change, I've not looked to see what is recommended.
I also just had the timing belt service done and now the engine sounds like a push-rod american V8 with sloppy lifters when going up hills or accelerating.
I'm on holiday in Raleigh, NC right now so there probably isn't too much I can do about it until I make the 700+ mile trip back home. But, I'm curious to know if anyone can lend some insight and/or has experienced this before. Oh, it may or may not be an issue, but the dealer I purchased it from put in 5-40 oil at the last oil change, I've not looked to see what is recommended.
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at the front of your rear drive shaft, there is a double cv, (u joint) If you rotate the drive shaft slowly and look carefully you will see a grease zerk between the 2 u joints grease it and I bet the noise will go away. I had the exact same issue and confusion from mechanic. I put my runner on jack stands and had the wife in it slowly excelerating while I searched. greased it up and noise has not returned. You have to look hard to find the zerk though. Good luck.
01 3" OME, 1" BL, Soon to add 285 75- 16s on DC-1 blacks
01 3" OME, 1" BL, Soon to add 285 75- 16s on DC-1 blacks
#18
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http://www.motor.com/MAGAZINE/Articles/012007_04.html
Check the crank bolt torque.
Quote from link above:
Check the crank bolt torque.
Quote from link above:
If the crank bolt loosens up, it allows the harmonic balancer and crank sprocket to shake back and forth. First, this unwanted movement usually causes an rpm-sensitive noise and vibration in the front of the engine. You can watch the harmonic balancer wobbling while the engine is idling. Beyond a point, those drive belts are the only things keeping the balancer on the crank snout. It's anyone's guess as to how long a driver will ignore this noise and vibration.
Second, although the loose crank sprocket causes an erratic CKP signal, experience shows that it rarely triggers a crank sensor trouble code. However, the unstable signal creates an assortment of driveability problems. For instance, the engine often idles okay but misfires during acceleration and the ECM sets one or more misfire codes. Eventually, the engine may misfire all the time and become hard to start. Before you dive into a diagnosis, always get the vehicle history and watch for a wobbling harmonic balancer.
When in doubt, thoroughly test the crank sensor with your oscilloscope. Look for the familiar, cyclical, sine wave-like pattern at idle and higher rpm. (Note that a flat spot among the reluctor teeth creates a crisp, repeatable pattern “blip” representing piston position.) Sprocket movement causes an ugly, erratic crank sensor pattern.
A driver may ignore the noise, vibration and misfiring symptoms until it's way too late. By that point, the loose parts may allow the woodruff key to wear or wallow out the keyways in the crankshaft and/or crank sprocket! The unwanted movement also may distort the woodruff key itself. Sometimes the wear and looseness allows the crank sprocket to twist or shift far enough to alter timing; then overall performance suffers. So if you discover a wobbling harmonic balancer and a loose crank bolt on one of these Toyota engines, a tear-down and thorough visual inspection is the best way to know what's damaged and how badly.
Second, although the loose crank sprocket causes an erratic CKP signal, experience shows that it rarely triggers a crank sensor trouble code. However, the unstable signal creates an assortment of driveability problems. For instance, the engine often idles okay but misfires during acceleration and the ECM sets one or more misfire codes. Eventually, the engine may misfire all the time and become hard to start. Before you dive into a diagnosis, always get the vehicle history and watch for a wobbling harmonic balancer.
When in doubt, thoroughly test the crank sensor with your oscilloscope. Look for the familiar, cyclical, sine wave-like pattern at idle and higher rpm. (Note that a flat spot among the reluctor teeth creates a crisp, repeatable pattern “blip” representing piston position.) Sprocket movement causes an ugly, erratic crank sensor pattern.
A driver may ignore the noise, vibration and misfiring symptoms until it's way too late. By that point, the loose parts may allow the woodruff key to wear or wallow out the keyways in the crankshaft and/or crank sprocket! The unwanted movement also may distort the woodruff key itself. Sometimes the wear and looseness allows the crank sprocket to twist or shift far enough to alter timing; then overall performance suffers. So if you discover a wobbling harmonic balancer and a loose crank bolt on one of these Toyota engines, a tear-down and thorough visual inspection is the best way to know what's damaged and how badly.
Last edited by mt_goat; 03-09-2009 at 06:14 AM.
#19
Old and dry fan belts will raise all kinds of heII when disturbed or reused. Put some vasoline on the undersides of all the belts and then crank it up. If its the belts, the noise will go away. And yes, they can chirp and make sounds like dry bearings.
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I also seem to have light clattering sound as well I have a 98 2wd 3rz it only is noticeable with the radio off and im either going up a slight hill or accelerating around 1500 to 2500ish rpm. I recently switched to synthetic oil but I still heard the noise from before. Im thinking its the valves or the drive shaft. The previous owner had the crankshaft pulley break and then replaced it along with the belts so I dont think its the bolt torque or belts.
Last edited by RB4runner; 03-17-2009 at 06:54 AM.