MAF Removal
#1
MAF Removal
Tried to remove the MAF on my 2001 4Runner while I was cleaning the throttle body. I am very unhappy with whomever designed the attachment. I took the entire air filter box out so I could get to the two screws. In ten seconds I rounded the ends of both screws with a phillips screwdriver. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get the darn screws out or why in the world Toyota put the softest metal screws I have ever seen in this model. I could understand if I tried a screwdriver with it still in the car but with the air filter box removed I had total access and only tried once on each screw. The only way I can even think about doing this is to dremel carefully and remove the surrounding plastic on the MAF so I can use vice grips to remove the screws. Pretty nice designl by Toyota that requires a new part to be purchased instead of cleaning the old one
Any idea if PB Blaster works on screws in plastic. Also I am very afraid of messing up a working MAF. This was preventative maintenence
Any idea if PB Blaster works on screws in plastic. Also I am very afraid of messing up a working MAF. This was preventative maintenence
#5
Contributing Member
Yes, they so make them that small but a simpler way is to use a dremmel to cut a grove in the center and turn it into a flat head screw. This works great and i have used it many times (great for when you don't have the extraters around...)
#6
Same thing happened to me. Check out my thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/m...r-woes-103667/
I had to remove the air box and use the dremmel tool. Once the head of the screw was shaved off, the rest of it came out easy. Good luck.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/m...r-woes-103667/
I had to remove the air box and use the dremmel tool. Once the head of the screw was shaved off, the rest of it came out easy. Good luck.
#7
That service requires some nimble fingers and the biggest problem is dropping those little screws in the forbidden zone!
Then you can easily pinch the O-ring upon installation, stretching it out.
I did that and had to cut the o-ring and crazy glue it back together.
Sounds dumb but it works great. Kenny S
Then you can easily pinch the O-ring upon installation, stretching it out.
I did that and had to cut the o-ring and crazy glue it back together.
Sounds dumb but it works great. Kenny S
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#9
Don't even try to drill out the screw and use a extractor. Broke two different drill bits before going to the dremel. I found a great replacement bolt for 40 cents at Home Depot. Part number 30699-82558 4mmx10mm cap screw with socket head.
#10
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I had the same problem, and responded to a couple threads about this.
Here's what mine looked like:
I tried one of those screw extractors from SEARS but it just dug it out more.
I did the dremil trick to cut a notch and ended up heating the screw so much that it just melted the plastic around the threaded insert. I just pulled it out and found the corrosion that was causing the problem.
I mixed up some epoxy and glued the insert back in and used an alan head bolt.
Erich
Here's what mine looked like:
I tried one of those screw extractors from SEARS but it just dug it out more.
I did the dremil trick to cut a notch and ended up heating the screw so much that it just melted the plastic around the threaded insert. I just pulled it out and found the corrosion that was causing the problem.
I mixed up some epoxy and glued the insert back in and used an alan head bolt.
Erich
#14
Well, now that it has risen from the dead(the thread), that is a great suggestion, thanks.
#15
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