snowblind

Well I got tired of people stealing amps out of my truck so I decided to build something more secure for my amps. I have a 92 xtd cab, it has dual flip-up bench seats and under each seat is a little compartment. One compartment normally holds the jack and the other holds the jack-tools. I put my amps in the larger compartment (behind the driver's seat). I made a locking steel replacement for the carpet covered cardboard lid.

I can post more details/pics if people are interested but here is the jist.

Take 'factory' cover and trace onto a piece of metal (the thicker the better! I just used an old metal shelf). Cut out with jigsaw, dremel, whatever you got.

Bend two pieces of 1/2 to 3/4 flatbar to match the shape of the tabs on the flimsy cover. Weld the tabs onto the metal lid in the same positions as the tabs on the flimsy lid.

Buy two (or maybe just one) file-cabinet/desk locks from hardware store. I bought the kind for 1/4" max doors and are BARELY long enough. I almost took them back and got longer ones but if I push down on the metal-lid then the locks turn and are really secure. I put one about 2 inches to the right of the original turn-latch and then the second on the left side of the lid. I got matching locks (matching keys!) so it make life easier.

Lastly, I took some more flatbar (same 3/4" piece as before) and welded it like 1.5 inches back from the leading edge of the lid. I welded it so it is upright... when the lid is in place it is adjacent to the leading edge of the compartment... this prevents the lid from being pulled towards the driver's seat (away from the metal tabs in the back).

All in all, it is pretty secure for $10 ($8 for the locks, $2 for the flatbar). I wish I had heavier metal for the lid, but o'well, it would of been harder to cut out I suppose. If you've got a torch or plasma then get some 14 gauge plate and scare anyone away!

I have grey carpet and had some grey spray paint, so I put on some coats and it looks pretty good now. The benchseat folds down and the locks are low-profile so it doesn't make the seat bumpy.

Also, make sure to tack-weld the tabs and then test fit! I had to break my tacks and move the tabs a tiny bit for the lid to fit. Also, go slow on welding the metal-lid if it isn't very thick metal-- I ended up warping my lid just a little bit because I got the lid too hot from welding too fast (I don't weld much, so I always forget to go slow on light metal).

Brad