Level 10 Valve Body HydroSystem
04-22-2003, 04:41 AM
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Level 10 Valve Body HydroSystem
The installation of the Supercharger accentuated the slow soft shifts of the standard automatic transmission. Overtime, this was obviously going to cause a problem.
I pulled the valve body on a Saturday morning and packed it up for Level 10. One of the best write-ups I have seen to date is http://members.cox.net/mgriese5/Level10.html Take the time to review this website, it will make this job much easier.
The project is very straight forward. Have a large drain pan available, and a lot of paper towels, it is a messy job. After draining and removing the pan, remove the valve body, as it comes free, there will be about another quart of fluid to drain out, all over the floor if your drain pan isn’t large enough. A two gallon zip-lock bag is just large enough to hold the valve body, I used two. Packed up, the total package weighed in at 13 lbs. I sent it overnight with a $1k of insurance to arrive Monday morning for $60. Add about $15 worth of bubble pack, zip-lock bags and a strong box that is about 16 inched long.
I was traveling on business for the week and the valve body made it home on Friday afternoon. Level 10 shipped it back second day to save me a few dollars. Total invoice from Level 10, $744.00.
Saturday morning I unpacked everything, cleaned the gasket surfaces, and rolled under the truck. When removing the accumulator springs be prepared for another ATF shower, there is probably another quart of ATF in this process. The Level 10 springs prevented the cups these springs sit in from staying in place on their own. On a workbench, this is probably easy; laying on you back it is a bit more difficult. I found a 4 inch putty knife draped over the drive shaft for the front differential kept them still long enough to get the valve body in place.
Leave the front two springs (spring inside a spring) and the check ball spring assembly out for the moment. Install the valve body with the rear center bolt, and one of the front two center bolts with a turn or two. This will give you enough room to install the front spring inside a spring and the check ball spring assembly without loosing everything. Trust me on this, there is NO way to balance those springs in place while you attempt to carefully lift this 12 lb valve body into place.
With everything back together, it took 8 quarts of ATF to fill it up.
These shifts are FIRM, no indecision, no clutch plate slip, simply the next gear. I’ll ride it this way for awhile, but I think the stock accumulator springs will go back in. The shifts are a bit too firm for this daily driver.
Overall, I think it’s worth it, add in the ATF and gasket sealer, and you have a $900 modification.
I pulled the valve body on a Saturday morning and packed it up for Level 10. One of the best write-ups I have seen to date is http://members.cox.net/mgriese5/Level10.html Take the time to review this website, it will make this job much easier.
The project is very straight forward. Have a large drain pan available, and a lot of paper towels, it is a messy job. After draining and removing the pan, remove the valve body, as it comes free, there will be about another quart of fluid to drain out, all over the floor if your drain pan isn’t large enough. A two gallon zip-lock bag is just large enough to hold the valve body, I used two. Packed up, the total package weighed in at 13 lbs. I sent it overnight with a $1k of insurance to arrive Monday morning for $60. Add about $15 worth of bubble pack, zip-lock bags and a strong box that is about 16 inched long.
I was traveling on business for the week and the valve body made it home on Friday afternoon. Level 10 shipped it back second day to save me a few dollars. Total invoice from Level 10, $744.00.
Saturday morning I unpacked everything, cleaned the gasket surfaces, and rolled under the truck. When removing the accumulator springs be prepared for another ATF shower, there is probably another quart of ATF in this process. The Level 10 springs prevented the cups these springs sit in from staying in place on their own. On a workbench, this is probably easy; laying on you back it is a bit more difficult. I found a 4 inch putty knife draped over the drive shaft for the front differential kept them still long enough to get the valve body in place.
Leave the front two springs (spring inside a spring) and the check ball spring assembly out for the moment. Install the valve body with the rear center bolt, and one of the front two center bolts with a turn or two. This will give you enough room to install the front spring inside a spring and the check ball spring assembly without loosing everything. Trust me on this, there is NO way to balance those springs in place while you attempt to carefully lift this 12 lb valve body into place.
With everything back together, it took 8 quarts of ATF to fill it up.
These shifts are FIRM, no indecision, no clutch plate slip, simply the next gear. I’ll ride it this way for awhile, but I think the stock accumulator springs will go back in. The shifts are a bit too firm for this daily driver.
Overall, I think it’s worth it, add in the ATF and gasket sealer, and you have a $900 modification.
Last edited by tomstin; 04-22-2003 at 01:13 PM.
04-22-2003, 06:53 AM
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That first link had a period at the end this one should work http://members.cox.net/mgriese5/Level10.html
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