LCA removal tricks?
03-09-2017, 11:30 AM
#1
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LCA removal tricks?
Just a quick ask:
anyone have a trick for removing/installing the rear bolt on Tacoma LCAs without removing entire steering gear?
There is a maybe 2mm lack of space for the bolt to clear the steering gear. Super fun discovery. I"ve pulled back tie rod boot and wedged the control arm as far outboard as I can, but still have that slight blockage from steering.
anyone have a trick for removing/installing the rear bolt on Tacoma LCAs without removing entire steering gear?
There is a maybe 2mm lack of space for the bolt to clear the steering gear. Super fun discovery. I"ve pulled back tie rod boot and wedged the control arm as far outboard as I can, but still have that slight blockage from steering.
03-12-2017, 08:44 AM
#4
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Yep, found that out the hard way when I did my frame swap. Have to put the LCA in before you install the rack or do as described.
Last edited by TheDurk; 03-12-2017 at 08:48 AM.
03-22-2017, 12:43 PM
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Sorry for delay.
Deal is: back out rear LCA bolt then saw off.
I didnt do that, but that is the easy way to resolve the issue without disconnecting rack. Easy peasy for future readers: just loosen the nut, and then saw off bolt head. This enables replacement (assuming ratcheting wrench) without messing with steering fluid in your face.
edit: next question forthcoming
second edit: swazall is likely needed. For me just one of four sleeves, but still, the only solution. $30 of blades.
Deal is: back out rear LCA bolt then saw off.
I didnt do that, but that is the easy way to resolve the issue without disconnecting rack. Easy peasy for future readers: just loosen the nut, and then saw off bolt head. This enables replacement (assuming ratcheting wrench) without messing with steering fluid in your face.
edit: next question forthcoming
second edit: swazall is likely needed. For me just one of four sleeves, but still, the only solution. $30 of blades.
Last edited by dromomaniac; 03-22-2017 at 01:28 PM.
03-22-2017, 02:54 PM
#6
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No fluid in the face, the lines have quite a bit of play in them, simply loosen 2 nuts and 1 bolt enough to slide the rack back the 1/2" or so,.. no replacement parts or reciprocating saw required. How much is that OE bolt I wonder.
03-22-2017, 03:35 PM
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Well the cam bolts are $37 per pair, Moog, from Rock auto. At least that's what I paid. Plus they are greasable so yay for the future.
I did it your way. But couldnt get enough play without disconnecting lines to rack. In retrospect I shouldve just cut the bolt heads off since I had the replacements waiting. OE rear cam bolts go in from rear, so that nut is on front side. Replacements went in opposite so not a future problem (in theory).
I did it your way. But couldnt get enough play without disconnecting lines to rack. In retrospect I shouldve just cut the bolt heads off since I had the replacements waiting. OE rear cam bolts go in from rear, so that nut is on front side. Replacements went in opposite so not a future problem (in theory).
