Just HOW difficult is it prying headlights apart?
10-25-2011, 05:27 PM
#1
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Just HOW difficult is it prying headlights apart?
I'm looking into upgrading full-blown HID for my '97 T4R. Threads show "baking" these glass headlights in oven to loosen the glue then pry apart, which I was/am prepared to do. Thing is, the HID rep is telling me, instead, to soak headlights in gasoline for 2+ days to safely break-down the glue and avoid the huge chance of cracking the headlight glass from baking, which he says is quite common. He says the gasoline trick does nothing to any other parts, just breaks-down the glue with zero risk to damaging any other parts, including the headlights themselves.
So...to those out there that have already completed this upgrade...is "baking" a PITA, have you ruined sets of headlights until you got it right, etc., or...is it fairly easy if you take your time and this rep is just CYA (err, CHA)?
I just want to do things right the first time and go into this with eyes-wide-open.
Thanks!
James
So...to those out there that have already completed this upgrade...is "baking" a PITA, have you ruined sets of headlights until you got it right, etc., or...is it fairly easy if you take your time and this rep is just CYA (err, CHA)?
I just want to do things right the first time and go into this with eyes-wide-open.
Thanks!
James
Last edited by JamesDINAN; 10-25-2011 at 05:31 PM.
10-26-2011, 02:41 AM
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Soaking in gas is completely retarded, and VERY unsafe. I don't know if I'd want gas fumes around a very hot light source, because the plastic will soak it up.
I just did one of my Tundra's lights today, which was much more tedious than the 4Runner lights as they have glass lenses and the Tundra has plastic.
It's very easy to do and very hard to damage a glass lens.
I put them on a cookie sheet in the oven at 180° for 15 min or so. That temp won't damage the plastic or make it pliable, but it will soften the glue. Also easy to handle them with Mechanix gloves right out of the oven.
Start separating first with a putty knife then move to flat head screw driver if need be.
Of note; the aftermarket Eagle Eyes Tundra lights had a really stringy adhesive, which you absolutely cannot let contact the chromed internal reflector when you're removing the lens. The adhesive will come of the lens no problem, but will not come of the chrome. Any solvent will discolor it, and scraping with even a fingernail will damage it. Take care here. The 4Runner Eagle Eye lights I used didn't seem to have this problem. Got both from ebay.
My G3 projectors came with tubes of the same gray sealant that is already in the lights. I ran a bead around the frame, reinstalled the lens and spring clips, then put it back in the oven to soften the old adhesive for one last 15 min session. Try to get the frame/lens gap as close as you can, then let it dry, either face up or down; do not dry with the lens perpendicular to the ground.
Also, do not use silcone as a lens/frame adhesive. It's a poor choice. You need an adhesive like 3M Window Weld or something similar.
I used Morimoto projectors this time, and they are vastly better in quality than the G1/G3s I used in the past. Different shrouds to pick from, too.
I just did one of my Tundra's lights today, which was much more tedious than the 4Runner lights as they have glass lenses and the Tundra has plastic.
It's very easy to do and very hard to damage a glass lens.
I put them on a cookie sheet in the oven at 180° for 15 min or so. That temp won't damage the plastic or make it pliable, but it will soften the glue. Also easy to handle them with Mechanix gloves right out of the oven.
Start separating first with a putty knife then move to flat head screw driver if need be.
Of note; the aftermarket Eagle Eyes Tundra lights had a really stringy adhesive, which you absolutely cannot let contact the chromed internal reflector when you're removing the lens. The adhesive will come of the lens no problem, but will not come of the chrome. Any solvent will discolor it, and scraping with even a fingernail will damage it. Take care here. The 4Runner Eagle Eye lights I used didn't seem to have this problem. Got both from ebay.
My G3 projectors came with tubes of the same gray sealant that is already in the lights. I ran a bead around the frame, reinstalled the lens and spring clips, then put it back in the oven to soften the old adhesive for one last 15 min session. Try to get the frame/lens gap as close as you can, then let it dry, either face up or down; do not dry with the lens perpendicular to the ground.
Also, do not use silcone as a lens/frame adhesive. It's a poor choice. You need an adhesive like 3M Window Weld or something similar.
I used Morimoto projectors this time, and they are vastly better in quality than the G1/G3s I used in the past. Different shrouds to pick from, too.
Last edited by 4Tard; 10-26-2011 at 02:42 AM.
10-26-2011, 06:38 AM
#5
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Soaking in gas is completely retarded, and VERY unsafe. I don't know if I'd want gas fumes around a very hot light source, because the plastic will soak it up.
I just did one of my Tundra's lights today, which was much more tedious than the 4Runner lights as they have glass lenses and the Tundra has plastic.
It's very easy to do and very hard to damage a glass lens.
I put them on a cookie sheet in the oven at 180° for 15 min or so. That temp won't damage the plastic or make it pliable, but it will soften the glue. Also easy to handle them with Mechanix gloves right out of the oven.
Start separating first with a putty knife then move to flat head screw driver if need be.
Of note; the aftermarket Eagle Eyes Tundra lights had a really stringy adhesive, which you absolutely cannot let contact the chromed internal reflector when you're removing the lens. The adhesive will come of the lens no problem, but will not come of the chrome. Any solvent will discolor it, and scraping with even a fingernail will damage it. Take care here. The 4Runner Eagle Eye lights I used didn't seem to have this problem. Got both from ebay.
My G3 projectors came with tubes of the same gray sealant that is already in the lights. I ran a bead around the frame, reinstalled the lens and spring clips, then put it back in the oven to soften the old adhesive for one last 15 min session. Try to get the frame/lens gap as close as you can, then let it dry, either face up or down; do not dry with the lens perpendicular to the ground.
Also, do not use silcone as a lens/frame adhesive. It's a poor choice. You need an adhesive like 3M Window Weld or something similar.
I used Morimoto projectors this time, and they are vastly better in quality than the G1/G3s I used in the past. Different shrouds to pick from, too.
I just did one of my Tundra's lights today, which was much more tedious than the 4Runner lights as they have glass lenses and the Tundra has plastic.
It's very easy to do and very hard to damage a glass lens.
I put them on a cookie sheet in the oven at 180° for 15 min or so. That temp won't damage the plastic or make it pliable, but it will soften the glue. Also easy to handle them with Mechanix gloves right out of the oven.
Start separating first with a putty knife then move to flat head screw driver if need be.
Of note; the aftermarket Eagle Eyes Tundra lights had a really stringy adhesive, which you absolutely cannot let contact the chromed internal reflector when you're removing the lens. The adhesive will come of the lens no problem, but will not come of the chrome. Any solvent will discolor it, and scraping with even a fingernail will damage it. Take care here. The 4Runner Eagle Eye lights I used didn't seem to have this problem. Got both from ebay.
My G3 projectors came with tubes of the same gray sealant that is already in the lights. I ran a bead around the frame, reinstalled the lens and spring clips, then put it back in the oven to soften the old adhesive for one last 15 min session. Try to get the frame/lens gap as close as you can, then let it dry, either face up or down; do not dry with the lens perpendicular to the ground.
Also, do not use silcone as a lens/frame adhesive. It's a poor choice. You need an adhesive like 3M Window Weld or something similar.
I used Morimoto projectors this time, and they are vastly better in quality than the G1/G3s I used in the past. Different shrouds to pick from, too.
10-26-2011, 04:15 PM
#6
Baking is easy. I've done the full blown retro...just bake each headlight separately at 350 deg for 5 mins in your kitchen oven. After baking I gently seperated the glass from the housing using a pair of flat blade screw drivers.
Last edited by Rock Slide; 10-26-2011 at 04:18 PM.
10-26-2011, 05:14 PM
#7
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Thanks, someone else mentioned the stringiness of the glue too - DEFINITELY need to take that part slowly. I'm planning on getting the Morimoto Mini D2S system with the Iris shroud (want a clean look but not overly "flashy"). My plan is to also hunt-down '99+ headlights and put the HID in those instead of my '97...wish we could buy them already separated. ha
Don't destroy OEM headlights doing this. Just get a cheap set of ebay lights.
You'll never EVER end up with a perfect final product, so if you keep telling yourself that and use cheaper lights, it's easier to enjoy your results. This is especially true when you have a rock go through the lens and you have to start all over.
I went with the plainest looking shrouds they have, looks like it will turn out awesome.
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10-27-2011, 03:24 AM
#8
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I grabbed the glue with a nitrile gloved hand as i pulled the lens off. When I had enough room, i ran my hand all the way across the "sheet" of glue that was coming with the lens and pulled it to a single thread all the way back to the light frame, then cut with a razor blade.
Don't destroy OEM headlights doing this. Just get a cheap set of ebay lights.
You'll never EVER end up with a perfect final product, so if you keep telling yourself that and use cheaper lights, it's easier to enjoy your results. This is especially true when you have a rock go through the lens and you have to start all over.
I went with the plainest looking shrouds they have, looks like it will turn out awesome.
Don't destroy OEM headlights doing this. Just get a cheap set of ebay lights.
You'll never EVER end up with a perfect final product, so if you keep telling yourself that and use cheaper lights, it's easier to enjoy your results. This is especially true when you have a rock go through the lens and you have to start all over.
I went with the plainest looking shrouds they have, looks like it will turn out awesome.
I guess that's where I'm torn at the moment (buying '99+ OEM glass vs. Ebay)...I would expect OEM to be stronger, you know, maybe NOT let that rock through?? (kinda like when your rig needs a new windshield...OEM-grade or Safelite) lol
I also plan on keeping my OEM halogens in case there's any issues with my annual vehicle inspection - if there is then it's just a quick R/R x2.
I am opting for the mini D2S instead of a full-sized HID kit because, it is a direct screw-in into the H4 and eliminates the dremeling/gluing so, the results should be as optimal as can be (sharper cutoff line, etc.). And since it's just a tad more expensive, I'm thinking of taking the road-less-traveled and opting for 50w vs. 35w to capture the extra 10-15% light output. I don't run any aux lights so I'm thinking the brighter, the better.
Last edited by JamesDINAN; 10-27-2011 at 03:25 AM.
10-27-2011, 05:24 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the head's-up! I just checked...groupbuy#2 ended but, there's talk about a 3rd groupbuy happening soon and I'll keep watching that site. Now that I have a bit of time I'll ponder shrouds some more. Think I've decided on Iris, but now sure. I want a larger one that takes up more space inside the headlight but, not a shroud that's TOO flashy either (no gatlin gun, etc).
Thanks again for the tip!!
11-01-2011, 03:39 AM
#12
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Thread Starter
Yotatech.com is putting together another 25%-off Group Buy on TRS kits!! Go check 'em out if anyone's been considering HID retrofits.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/gro...-matt-trs.html
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/gro...-matt-trs.html
11-02-2011, 08:00 AM
#13
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Headlight separation
I just separated my OEM headlights this past weekend. I baked them in the oven at 250 degrees for about 12 minutes. Then worked my way around the glass with a flat blade screw driver, prying them apart. It worked well.
Good luck.
Good luck.
11-02-2011, 10:11 AM
#14
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Not a problem at all. I did this to my VW Jetta lights with a hair dryer! Only suggestion is take your time separating them. Once you do, try and clean off the excess glue. Do your mod and when you put it back together add some new RTV silicon. Don't be afraid of this one. Its a piece of cake. Good luck
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