TStango

I finally got that stinking swaybar set up with quick disconnects!
Lar's really came thru with these.
Unfortunately, I forgot to bring the digital camera for the install and I also forgot to bring it tonight for the simulated test. I did however get to take pictures tonight with a regular camera so I'll have to scan and post them when they get developed.

The test proved that I do have an independant front suspension afterall. No ramps here. I maxed out the flex with fork trucks under opposite front and rear tires. I was fired up to see that the front tire stuffed into the wheel well as well as the opposite rear tire. The pictures will be cool when I get them.

A big thanks to Lars for the disconnects!
Can't wait to use them on the trail.
-STANGO

Darren

Congrats! I installed mine on Sunday. I'm looking forward to test them out. Get these while you can people as it's not certain how long he will continue making these. He did tell me he ordered a new batch of material for another round though.

3" more downtravel. A good $80 mod for the 3rd Gens.

Bumpin' Yota

Does Lars make them for a 2nd gen? Where can i find out about them?

Thanks,
Steve

Darren

No he doesn't. Maybe other 2nd gen owners can give you feedback where look. You might try a search, I'm sure that has been discussed.

Bumpin' Yota

hey i did find this....your thoughts?

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/cheaptricks/swaybar2/

Robinhood150

Try the tech section here, my writeup should help you out for the 2nd gens.

The nuke style discos are $80?! I still don't see why you guys can't make your own for probably $20.

Steve

Bumpin' Yota

one thing that still shocks me about all these disconnects is why isnt the hitch pin you are using sheared off? I though the sway bar saw a hell of a load when under articulation....

And do polyurethane bushing help in any way, shape or form over rubber when you're talking about the anti sway bar?

Robinhood150

Because most materials are pretty strong in shear.

Shear stress=F/A
where F=force, A=area of the pin

The area of a 1/8"pin is 0.0123 square inches.
Yield stress for mild steel is approx 40,000psi

So F=40,000x0.0123=490lbs
But, the pin is in double shear so it can actually hold 980lbs.

Throw in a safety factor of 2 since this is all theoretical and you get a max allowable force of 500lbs that the pin should be able to handle. But then again, I doubt the pin is mild steel so it should be able to hold even more.

Steve

ALee27

is that 80 bucks for front and rear? or just one pair?

ravencr

How to buy a set set for my 1998? Where do I find this Lars company?

Chris

CTB

It's Lars Dennert (sorry if I spelled that wrong Lars). He hangs out on this forum and the Outdoorwire forum. Just search and find his website, and then shoot him an email. And yes, they should work just fine with you '98.

Here, I found it for you: http://www.larsdennert.com/4runner

ravencr

Thanks man! Are these only for the front end? Why hasn't some one come up with a successful setup for the rear?

chris

CTB

Ya, these are for the front swaybar. If I remember right, disconnecting the rear doesn't seem to help all that much with flex...at least not compared to the front.

ravencr

Actually, I've been told that disconecting the rear addcos makes about a 5" difference. From stock swaybars it probably doen't make much difference at all. I know that mine with the Addco's, it doesn't flex at all. The problem that I've heard is that disconnecting the rears can be problemsome. They say that te swaybar itself can get lodged into the gas tank or somthing like that. I guess the only thing to do in the rear is to totally remove it when going off-roading I guess, but that seems to be a pain. I've been thinking about some sort of spring system, but I haven't had time to figure it all out yet. Anyone else have any ideas?

Chris