zz_denis

Hi there.
I've done a lot of research on the matter and finally decided to install the E-locker into my 98 4Runner.

I had a complete parts truck that I took all the needed parts from.

My 4runner was pre-wired for the e-locker, so I decided to go with complete factory-like install/wiring.

Long story short: I did the physical install, and did an ultra-clean, factory-like wiring. I pulled out the 7 e-locker wires from the donor truck, and added them to my factory body harness, plugging them into correct factory plugs at both ends. After installing and connecting everything... E-locker is completely dead..

E-locker was installed in "locked" position, and its supposed to unlock as soon as you turn the ignition key. Well, it doesn't happen. It stays locked and nothing is happening. The "rr diff lock" dash light is also not lit, even though the sensor on the diff works perfectly (I tested it). Pressing the dash button doesn't do anything either, except making the dash light blink.

I suspect that it has to do with the fact that my 4runner did not come with ABS, and the e-locker ECU came from a donor truck equipped with ABS (it even says "ABS" on it!). My truck is also a manual tranny, and donor was automatic. Perhaps something in the ECU is getting confused due to the fact that its not getting info from the ABS speed sensors?

So my questions are..
1) Does non-abs e-locker ECU exist? I went through the parts catalogues and couldn't find one. Did 4runners ever come with e-locker and no abs? If not (I haven't seen any.. and I've seen lots!), then how come my non-ABS 4runner was pre-wired for the e-locker?
2) Is there a way to just bypass the ABS stuff on the ECU? There are a total of 10 wires going into the e-locker ECU. Should I try to unplug some wires from connector? If so, which? I don't care about the 5MPH safety at this point.
3) Is there any way I can SAFELY make the diff UNLOCK itself by sending current to the actuator motor? I realize that the ECU sends 12v to LG-R wire, and LG wire is grounded to unlock, but im afraid that manually sending current to these wires will burn something out in the motor since the end-travel safeties will not be functional. I NEED to drive this truck while im figuring this out, and I cant drive it with a locked diff.

Thanks a lot in advance!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You did try this before installing ??

Made sure it all worked correct

If it does indeed work

Since the 4Runners and Trucks have different ECM`s as well as A difference between manual and Auto ECM`s

I think what you have is a wiring nightmare.

About all you can do is get both the EWD`s for both vehicles sit down and figure out what is wrong wire by wire

With the year of the locker and the correct EWD for that year it would be easy for some of us to build a harness to make this work.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

You can drive your 4Runner all you want just pop the motor out and unlock the diff and reinstall. I believe that Tacoma elocker wiring is different colors that 4Runner ones....I vaguely remember having an issue with this. However, the main power wires to the locker motor are bigger the the rest.