Patsawasy

I finally got around to getting a slow leaking tire and a down right flat one plugged the other day. i had been on my full size spare till pay day. come to find out of course the hole is in the side wall ad cannot be plugged. now since these shoes were on there way out im not to concerned, but the plan was to roll with them for another couple thousand miles till i could afford the whole shabbang of new tires, rims and the lift.

Option A:

i know i 'Should' be ok with a 2 inch body lift and 285s at least for on road driving till i can throw in the susp lift for the trail.

Option B:

a 3 inch revteck lift with the 285s should be ok too?

Option C:

Weap openly on a street corner with my 4runner behind me with a flat tire in hopes of donations. (personally i dont like C very much)


i would love any im put ast to what is favorable for cost : performance ratio. i know the revtec would probably be better, but woudl it be worth it? i kno theres plenty of posts on each on indiidually but not a comparision. pluss i want to do a shamless plugg for parts purchase too.


things I need:
2 inch body or
3 inch revtech or
something comperable
new or slightly used 285s
black steelies or chrome steelies not the D cut out but the O


thanks for imput in advance.

oh and if anyone has a better idea on what to do so i can clear the wells now, and add to it later i could use the info

4runnin2

I have some almost brand new 285/75/16 BFG muds for 500 in the for sale area. Might be some money to ship them to cali though.

Bryan

montypower

There is a HUGE "misconception" on clearing bigger tires... Suspension lift will not allow clearance for bigger tires than stock! Unless you limit your wheel up travel. Body lift will allow for bigger tires.

If you plan on flexing with 33s... Body lift or lots of trimming is required. My truck has 1.5" body lift (2.5 suspension) and I still had to grind a bunch to eliminate the rubbing.

mastacox

Um, that I'm going to have to say is very very wrong...

AH64ID

Mostly correct, the type of lift he is refering to is correct, bracket lifts, wrong....

I am going to have to agree, he is very correct. BJ spacers (86-95) and topout spacer, new springs, etc (95-04) do the same thing... They allow for more droop, usually, a taller stance.. but on compression they compress the tire to the stock location... thus if it fits stock it will fit with the lift... If it didnt fit stock, well it wont fit.. This is based on full compression on the trail. A street queen will have no issues... but a trail rig will.

In order to get the bigger tire to fit without rubbing, you need a bracket lift, or a BL, personally I like bracket lifts better than BL's...

If you dont care about a little rubbing a larger tire can fit too... persnally I hate rubbing..

nc994run

Suspension lift will let you fit a bigger tire than stock, are you talking about not bein able to run wider than stock tires?

neliconcept

what really needs to happen is he needs a sus lift and a body lift all together..

AH64ID

Only one that changes the location of the compression bumpstop, as in a bracket lift....

SoiledGreen98

I couldn't wait for a lift so I broke down and bought 265/75 BFG MT's. I'll get the lift next year from sschaeffer. But i'm cool for now plus I'm getting new rims too. That'll help over look the lift for a couple of months.

AxleIke

okay. Well, thats all fine, but the title indicates that he want's a cheap way to get 285's on his truck.

The ABSOLUTE cheapest way to fit 285's is to leave the truck stock....











And break out the SAWZALL

Patsawasy

hahaha thanks all. i will be able to afford the suspension AND the BL probably come december. but right now i can only afford one. prefferably thew cheaper option because money is tight. but i dont want to buy a new set of 265s for two months then have to buy bigger tires come winter. i dont have any real trips planned till then anyways cause im stuck in class most days. maybe just a desert trip but i wont be doing much but camping and riding a quad anyways. so i just need the bare min till then anyways.

AH64ID

If you budget is tight go with the BL now, the susp has the additional charge of an alignment and renting a spring compresser...

rocket

iTrader: (1)

You can stuff 285's on there with NO lift and still drive the streets.
------------
A 2" BL is overkill and just increases the chance of a flop or roll.

The "hardcore" 3rd gen wheelers here with 285's (and larger) are running a 1" to 1.5" BL with a common 2.5"~ suspension lift. Do some research!

Please, take a very close look at Ric, Calrockx, Lee, bamachem, BruceTS, SEAN_at_TLT and a few others! Research the threads they started, their websites, the trail runs, their rig specs, and THEN make a decision!

RunnerUp

hahaha i wonder how much cutting you would need to do... someone try it

mastacox

Well, I guess I don't clear the 285's I'm running with a Revtek lift... but last time I chcked they only rub on the pinch weld not the top of the fender.

I suppose anyone running Tundra Coils Front and LC coils rear with a topout spacer can't clear 285's or 315's... get my point?

montypower

You just don't understand the concept of suspension lift and added clearance for tires. Yes. You have more room when the truck is sitting on level ground. No. You will not have any more clearance or room than stock when the suspension is fully compressed. This is assuming you don't change your suspension travel, add bump stops, bracket lifts, etc....

The thing I don't get... You did non of the mods on that truck, yet you act like an expert??

gregbreakseverything

I might be getting in over my head right now.

I thought a "revtek" or other spacer suspension lift will give you the exact amount of suspension travel as stock, just 2.5 inches higher.

mastacox

Oh F-off You don't know me, or anything about me (or any of my experience or credentials for that matter). Did you miss the fact that this isn't my first 4x4, or maybe just because its a new car I know nothing about it. Apparently I know nothing about a spring/strut suspension or 3-link/panhard rear (which is fundamentally the same as my older 4Runner anyway). I know EXACTLY what I'm talking about here, and I think the terminology you're using to define how clearing bigger tires works is misleading and mis-informative. In the interests of civility, that's all I'm saying on that.

The thing YOU don't understand is you are defining a "suspension lift" as bigger springs, spacers, and that's it. What about extended arms? Relocation brackets? lenghthened steeing spindles? BUMP STOP SPACERS? A better way to define a suspension lift would be "a modification to the suspension that increases ground clearance and/or wheel travel." This first of all INCLUDES bracket lifts, and secondly almost ALL suspension lift kits (as I have defined them) come with bump-stop spacers, and/or specifically sized shocks.

I find it inherently ignorant to state this for a host of reasons:
It is a COMMON occurence to limit up/down travel on suspension lifts, but bump stops are not the only way to do this. Stiffer springs and sway bars can also do this job for you. Finally, factory stock 4x4's don't stuff their wheel all the way to the top of the fender, so there's room to spare there. For example, my '92 4Runner has SMALLER bump stops, and ball-joint spacers to maximize front wheel travel, yet the only place they rub is the pinch weld. Why don't they rub on the top of the fender, I wonder?

As for my new 4Runner, the spacers effectively increase the spring rate of the spring, causing them to hold the suspension of the vehicle up higher, and making it more difficult to compress them past stock distances. Admittedly, this is not a very good method of lifting a suspension, mainly because the stock springs are put under more stress that normal, and will sag, but it's doing its job for now. Additionally, this 4Runner still has the swaybar attched (until I make disconnects) which helps to limit articluation. It's a common practice to leave the swaybar attached on 3rd gen 4Runners to help limit down travel BTW, in the interests of preserving CV's. But obviously you knew all of these things and I knew none of it.

Obviously, the rear is an even easier proposition, since the wheels don't turn, and with a solid axle they angle and are able to stuff up INSIDE the fender. With longer springs and a replacement panhard, it's very easy to clear bigger tires.

In summation, suspension lifts fundamentally tend to limit up-travel, and body lifts are a BAD thing to depend on by themselves when looking to get bigger tires. I can see it now, 4Runners everywhere with 3" body lifts and suspension... it makes me want to cry. :pat:

AH64ID

Mastacox,

I think you are missing the point that monty is making. The most common form of lift for tacos and 3rd gens is a topout spacer. Simply adding a topout spacer will not allow for larger tires to be used, period. This is because the suspension still compresses to the factory location, so like you 92 with BJ spacers, if you rub with it stock you will rub with the topout spacer, or even tundra springs, or anthing you do short of a bracket lift of larger bumpstops. No-one ever rubs on the top of the fender (I have 4" bracket lift and 35's and come no where close to the top of the fender), no one ever wories about it (except long travel susp, but not the common taco/3rd gen lift). The pinch weld is where everyone rubs, you would rub just as bad w/out your suspension lift... Yes the term that Monty used with "suspension lifts" dont allow bigger tires is misleading, but the suspension lift talked about in post #1 does not allow for fitment of larger tires, it just raises the stance. This is why most poeple run a 1"BL too, because a 1" BL allows for 2" larger tires (typically, based on width increase) the new springs or spacers are mainly for looks.

So lets all hold hands and...

Tacoclimber

Whew...for a second I thought I was on the wrong forum board...