I Just Got A New Clutch
#1
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I Just Got A New Clutch
Well, after 200,003 miles my OEM clutch began to slip and glazed over so it was time to replace it. I searched high and low for a good replecement. I looked at dealer supplied clutches, centerforce, ram, and lastly, zoom. After seeing the price for one from a dealer and doing hours of research on the others i decided on Zoom.
The entire kit (standard friction) was less than $300. I did not want an enhanced friction because my engines power output does not warrent it and i would rathet have my clutch slip in 4-Lo off-road than have a driveshaft or axleshaft break. The kit included all the needed bearings and the instal tool.
I don't have garage space, the tools, time or skill to undertake this myself so i took it too my trusty mechanic, Mike. In the past he has taken charges off my bill and bumped me to the front of the line. In exchange, I always use him and try to send people his way. He ordered the parts for me too.
The entire bill came out to almost $1200 ! That sounds bad, but that also included the resurfacing of the flywheel, replacement of transmission/T-case mounts, a T-Case and tranny oil change, the repair of the front drive dhaft ( it had frozen at the splines) and the replacement of my rear main seal. The leaky seal coused all this in the first place. the old, oil soaked clutch disc still had about 15000 miles left on it.
As always, i inspected the progress of the vehicle every day. I also check every part or fluid that goes in. The work was completed in a timely mannor, and the money I had been saving for an ARB Milemarker combo is gone.
The Zoom clutch is great. The pedal is so much lighter, I almost put my foot through the floorboard when I drove away. There is ZERO chatter, and NO slip, even at 4000 plus RPMs or in Lo-Range. I have not driven many standard shift vehicles, but mine feels the best of all now. I have had to learn to drive again but now I have a lot better feel and handling with the clutch. It haz put the "ZOOM" back into my 4Runner, HA HA HA, uh, nevermind.
In short, Zoom is a great clutch, I hate having to shell out cash for work, but if you do, its nice to give it to a trusted mechanic who gaurentees his work. I am very satisfied with everything.
I would be happy to field any questions.
Lamm
The entire kit (standard friction) was less than $300. I did not want an enhanced friction because my engines power output does not warrent it and i would rathet have my clutch slip in 4-Lo off-road than have a driveshaft or axleshaft break. The kit included all the needed bearings and the instal tool.
I don't have garage space, the tools, time or skill to undertake this myself so i took it too my trusty mechanic, Mike. In the past he has taken charges off my bill and bumped me to the front of the line. In exchange, I always use him and try to send people his way. He ordered the parts for me too.
The entire bill came out to almost $1200 ! That sounds bad, but that also included the resurfacing of the flywheel, replacement of transmission/T-case mounts, a T-Case and tranny oil change, the repair of the front drive dhaft ( it had frozen at the splines) and the replacement of my rear main seal. The leaky seal coused all this in the first place. the old, oil soaked clutch disc still had about 15000 miles left on it.
As always, i inspected the progress of the vehicle every day. I also check every part or fluid that goes in. The work was completed in a timely mannor, and the money I had been saving for an ARB Milemarker combo is gone.
The Zoom clutch is great. The pedal is so much lighter, I almost put my foot through the floorboard when I drove away. There is ZERO chatter, and NO slip, even at 4000 plus RPMs or in Lo-Range. I have not driven many standard shift vehicles, but mine feels the best of all now. I have had to learn to drive again but now I have a lot better feel and handling with the clutch. It haz put the "ZOOM" back into my 4Runner, HA HA HA, uh, nevermind.
In short, Zoom is a great clutch, I hate having to shell out cash for work, but if you do, its nice to give it to a trusted mechanic who gaurentees his work. I am very satisfied with everything.
I would be happy to field any questions.
Lamm
#2
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Your the second person to tell me about zoom clutch's. Everyone else says OEM. I've got over 170,000 miles on mine and its time to replace it. Do you have a link for the zoom clutch?
#3
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What is your guys deal with the centerforce dual friction? My dad has one in his '00 Nissan Xterra 4x4 SE 5spd, has a 3.3L V6, and he loves it. The vehicle sees the trails atleast once a month, including rock crawling and all. He crawls over rocks and such in 4LO with no problem, he loves the centerforce dual friction. It is what i was planning on putting in my truck in the near future. I just want to know why people are steering away from it.
#4
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As far as finding out more, google.com. search for "zoom clutches"
I mostly based my decision on talking to sales reps and reading handouts at the Super Summit car and truck show.
As far as a cenerforce, if you wan't it, get it. I have herd lots of good stuff about them with only a few complaints about high speed low RPM slipping. (prob. because it gets its holding power from rotational speed). Having the 3.slow however, I see no need to pay more money for a clutch that can outperform my engine. It would be just a waste of money. if you have a screamer of an engine though, get a high friction clutch.
See what I mean now?
Lamm
I mostly based my decision on talking to sales reps and reading handouts at the Super Summit car and truck show.
As far as a cenerforce, if you wan't it, get it. I have herd lots of good stuff about them with only a few complaints about high speed low RPM slipping. (prob. because it gets its holding power from rotational speed). Having the 3.slow however, I see no need to pay more money for a clutch that can outperform my engine. It would be just a waste of money. if you have a screamer of an engine though, get a high friction clutch.
See what I mean now?
Lamm
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Originally Posted by MorphiasX
What is your guys deal with the centerforce dual friction? My dad has one in his '00 Nissan Xterra 4x4 SE 5spd, has a 3.3L V6, and he loves it. The vehicle sees the trails atleast once a month, including rock crawling and all. He crawls over rocks and such in 4LO with no problem, he loves the centerforce dual friction. It is what i was planning on putting in my truck in the near future. I just want to know why people are steering away from it.
I'll be doing mine soon too. I'm sticking with OEM though. Through 1sttoyotaparts.com I can get everything disc, plate, both bearings and a rear main seal for around $300-$400. I just like that I've gone this many miles on the OEM one and in my opinion, I don't want to be doing this job again for another 100k or so. My clutch would be fine if I hadn't pulled an F350 out of the mud and smoked the clutch a few years back. no everytime I wheel I smell it's burning desire to be changed. it still holds fine in regular driving but the bearings have started grinding and squealing so it's getting close to replacement time. I'll be doing the work myself so I;m not that concerned with saving money. I'd go TRD with the flywheel but that is a bit out of my range, I was just going to resurface the stock flywheel since they are quite pricey too.
#6
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i've never heard of anyone snapping a u-joint because of their clutch on a toyota. never heard of a rear axle breaking unless in double low with dual cases and slamming on the gas, but even that's pretty rare. high angle driveline uses toyota u-joints in their drivelines that go behind healthy v8s.
i wouldn't hesitate to run a centerforce if:
1.) i had the money in hand
2.) i had a more robust transmission
i'm putting in an L52 transmission which as many of us know isn't the strongest toy tranny made. it's basically a shorter G52 which will bolt into an early truck without redoing the drivelines. if i had, say, marlin's L52-HD(L52 with G54 guts), a G54, W56 or R151F i wouldn't think twice about a centerforce.
i wouldn't hesitate to run a centerforce if:
1.) i had the money in hand
2.) i had a more robust transmission
i'm putting in an L52 transmission which as many of us know isn't the strongest toy tranny made. it's basically a shorter G52 which will bolt into an early truck without redoing the drivelines. if i had, say, marlin's L52-HD(L52 with G54 guts), a G54, W56 or R151F i wouldn't think twice about a centerforce.
#7
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That's because nobody runs the dual friction ones. Like I said, centerforce I's are ok in my opinion but even centerforce recommends not using the DF version. just my 2 pennies.
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#8
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Originally Posted by keisur
Centerforce DF's are really tough on the driveline and have been known to snap axles and shafts on Toyotas, that's why nobody with a Toyota likes them much. Most people who get the Centerforces stick with the Centerforce I's.
I'll be doing mine soon too. I'm sticking with OEM though. Through 1sttoyotaparts.com I can get everything disc, plate, both bearings and a rear main seal for around $300-$400. I just like that I've gone this many miles on the OEM one and in my opinion, I don't want to be doing this job again for another 100k or so. My clutch would be fine if I hadn't pulled an F350 out of the mud and smoked the clutch a few years back. no everytime I wheel I smell it's burning desire to be changed. it still holds fine in regular driving but the bearings have started grinding and squealing so it's getting close to replacement time. I'll be doing the work myself so I;m not that concerned with saving money. I'd go TRD with the flywheel but that is a bit out of my range, I was just going to resurface the stock flywheel since they are quite pricey too.
I'll be doing mine soon too. I'm sticking with OEM though. Through 1sttoyotaparts.com I can get everything disc, plate, both bearings and a rear main seal for around $300-$400. I just like that I've gone this many miles on the OEM one and in my opinion, I don't want to be doing this job again for another 100k or so. My clutch would be fine if I hadn't pulled an F350 out of the mud and smoked the clutch a few years back. no everytime I wheel I smell it's burning desire to be changed. it still holds fine in regular driving but the bearings have started grinding and squealing so it's getting close to replacement time. I'll be doing the work myself so I;m not that concerned with saving money. I'd go TRD with the flywheel but that is a bit out of my range, I was just going to resurface the stock flywheel since they are quite pricey too.
#9
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Originally Posted by dragr1
Does TRD make a heavier flywheel?
I emailed TRD asking them if the 3.4 heavy duty clutch kit came with a heavier flywheel. No reply in a couple of weeks.
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All the info I can find on it is for Toyota cars and not trucks. if somebody knows a place for the truck ones can they post it please?
TRD Flywheel:
http://www.trdsource.com/printable.php?parts_id=167
http://www.toyheadauto.com/TRD_Clutc...formation.html
TRD Flywheel:
http://www.trdsource.com/printable.php?parts_id=167
http://www.toyheadauto.com/TRD_Clutc...formation.html
#11
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Originally Posted by gwhayduke
I emailed TRD asking them if the 3.4 heavy duty clutch kit came with a heavier flywheel. No reply in a couple of weeks.
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Originally Posted by dragr1
Does TRD make a heavier flywheel? b/c no other companies make one for the 3.4. I'm in need of a clutch soon too, I'll probably go with a Marlin-it's basically OEM but slightly modified and I'll have him resurface my flywheel also b/c he has a trick there to get more holding power. I plan on also going with 4.88's-think I'll be good with the 4.88's and 33's to pull a 3600 pound popup camper? (thinking of a newer model than the one I have)
4.88's will be fine, I have them and they;re great.
#13
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Originally Posted by keisur
how long will it take you to ship it out there and get it back and installed? you doing the install yourself?
4.88's will be fine, I have them and they;re great.
4.88's will be fine, I have them and they;re great.
Have you ever run a gps to see how far off your speedometer is?
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no. but it's off by 1/10 per mile. when I travel 1 mile (between interstate sticks) the speedo only shows 9/10 of a mile.
gas mileage sucks but that's just how it is with these. I don't tow much with it but towing would be alot better with the 4.88's than with the stock 4.10's. ya know.
I know Opelika. and Opp too, hehe.
gas mileage sucks but that's just how it is with these. I don't tow much with it but towing would be alot better with the 4.88's than with the stock 4.10's. ya know.
I know Opelika. and Opp too, hehe.
Last edited by keisur; 01-06-2005 at 06:36 PM.
#15
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Originally Posted by keisur
no. but it's off by 1/10 per mile. when I travel 1 mile (between interstate sticks) the speedo only shows 9/10 of a mile.
gas mileage sucks but that's just how it is with these.
gas mileage sucks but that's just how it is with these.
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well, it's not linear. the slow you go the less the difference between speedo and true speed. the faster you go, the greater the distance. but going 70 is really going about 77 yea. but 35 mph is more like 37, see what I mean. you can do a simple calculation (I wrote a spreadsheet and made a column from 1-100 mph) and see how the speed difference changes between the two tire sizes. you can't change speedo gears, it's computer controlled. you can get a recalibrator thing though, I'll have to find the link and post it.
man, looks like we hijacked this thread pretty good. better get it back on track:
Clutch. haha.
man, looks like we hijacked this thread pretty good. better get it back on track:
Clutch. haha.
Last edited by keisur; 01-06-2005 at 06:53 PM.
#17
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Originally Posted by keisur
well, it's not linear. the slow you go the less the difference between speedo and true speed. the faster you go, the greater the distance. but going 70 is really going about 77 yea. but 35 mph is more like 37, see what I mean. you can do a simple calculation (I wrote a spreadsheet and made a column from 1-100 mph) and see how the speed difference changes between the two tire sizes. you can't change speedo gears, it's computer controlled. you can get a recalibrator thing though, I'll have to find the link and post it.
man, looks like we hijacked this thread pretty good. better get it back on track:
Clutch. haha.
man, looks like we hijacked this thread pretty good. better get it back on track:
Clutch. haha.
Yeah, oops, sorry about the hijack. Back to clutches.
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