junbug

ok, so my 4runner finally passed smog with the help of a new catalytic. now, i have a new problem.

About driving 20 miles i decided to pull in to get a cup of coffee at a convienence store. I got back to my runner and started her up. The first thing i noticed was a large amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust, pressed down on the gas pedal and more white smoke came out. I decided to drive and about 1/8 mile later the white smoke was gone.
So, i drive her home and didnt notice anything more unusual. But, as soon as a exited the freeway and went into a complete stop, she started to idle kinda roughly and the temperature guage would fluctuate going from the point to where it normally stays at and then going past it and then sometimes coming back to the original point.
Anyone, please help me out on this before i turn into this ~~>
i am completely engine illiterate
Thanks in advance

rimpainter.com

Head Gasket problem is likely. Confirm it by having a pressure test done on each cyl and post the results. Check under the oil and radiator caps for foreign matter/residue too.

DudeBud

oh nos damn head gasket

02SE

I hate to say it, but it sounds like a blown headgasket.

junbug

Thanks for the quick reply everyone!!!
So, it seems like a blown headgasket from the replies. Now my question is, how much does it cost to fix it? I'm afraid to know the cost but i have a feeling i'll be paying an arm and a leg

DudeBud

how many miles on your rig toyota has a recall on this might want to call them up and see if you qualify

junbug

really? i have 216,709 miles on it.
would it matter if i'm not the original owner?

DudeBud

i dont think it matters if you are the original owner but mileage might. they would know better than me or maybe someone else on here might

Silver_Truck

If you do it yourself~10-15 hours of work if no machinig is needed, you can do it for about $80 (gasket kit from engine builder, gasket scraper, and some carb cleaner for cleaning your pistons, fresh coolant) just remember to change your oil and coolant 300-500 mi after you do it to get rid of all the crap that falls into the passages.

dragon564

Who owns or how many owner does not matter...It is monitored by the VIN #... there are a few other factors that apply but number of owners is not a factor....call toyota with the vin number and they will let you know if it meets all the factors....If it does not ...... you looking at an easy $1500.00 - $3000.00 depending on where you do go....about $500.00 is in the raw parts that have to be replaced from the start....if the head is not reusable the price goes up real quick when you have to get a new head...the compression test will tell you for sure.....also check the rad for traces of oil or low fluid and the oil cap for a creamy coffee color (oil mixed with the water and AF)

Silver_Truck

The kit from engnbldr is actually $122, sorry for the screw up above but it comes with the head bolts you need to replace. plus figure another roughly $30 for gasket scraper, carb cleaner (pistons, intake manifold and throttle body), and coolant

junbug

Thanks for the help everyone, you dont know how much i really appreciate it.
i just checked the radiator and it is very low on fluid. i cant tell if there are any traces of oil. i dont want to add any radiator fluid for fear that it might leak into the engine block and corrode anything there. i also checked the oil cap and it seems fine. i didnt notice any creamy coffee coloration. i also checked the dipstick and the oil looks good.

i dont know what the compression test is but i should note that the car did stall once at a stop light on my way home today.

Silver_Truck

If you plan on running it anymore you need to refill your radiator and make sure its full, thats usually a tell tale sign you lost a headgasket when you're losing coolant. You don't really have to worry to much about corroding the block as its iron and will hold up pretty good, but it can dilute your oil so make sure you either don't drive too much or just park it and make sure you change the oil after its fixed. A compression test uses a gauge that is attached to the end of a high pressure line that you thread in to your spark plug hole, then crank the engine a couple times and it tells you how mush compression in psi you have in the cylinder, then you repeat for the other 5. If you have basic mech. skills i recomend doing it yourself as you'll learn alot about that v6 and where stuff is hidden in your engine compartment-I know I have. It's not really that hard just time consuming...Good luck

dragon564

JUNBUG, the more info you provide the more I want to be the first to welcome you to the BHG club. Its really not that hard to be a member I think the only real requirment is is long term ownership and driving of a 3vze.

Very simply put a compression test replaces the spark plug with a pressure gauge, turn the engine over and read the gauge....lots of more detailed info on the site here just do a search for compression....

Silver Truck yes but I have always highly recommended that if your doing the head might as well go and and do a t-belt and water pump while your right there...

DudeBud

better to drain the coolent and put water in its place anitfreeze will kill the berrings in the motor water and you dont want that

junbug

the compression test seems easy enough. i guess i can ask around tomorrow at the local auto parts store after i call toyota up to see if i qualify for the recall.

junbug

i've had toyotas throughout all my years of driving, never owned anything else. this is my first toyota with a 3vze engine. so, i guess i can qualify for membership to the BHG club Now, if i can only qualify for the recall *crossing my fingers*

dragon564

JUNBUG,

I would not plan on running the truck very much at all.....right now it sounds like the coolant is going into the cyl and blowing out the back....the problem will get worse....you will reach the point were enough water will get into the cyl that it will not compress and you will hrydo lock at least that cyl and break something on the bottom half of the engine....right now the engine is repairable......push it and it can go to the non repairable...and that can happen faster than you think

Silver_Truck

Dragon:good point on the t-belt and water pump, i was just thinking of the stuff I got to do mine (which im in the middle of) and didn't even think of those as I replaced them 10k ago. That does add a couple hundred to the total, so $350 ish

junbug

i wont be operating the vehicle cuz im too afraid of any further damages. i will be calling toyota first thing tomorrow morning for the recall issue. if i dont qualify then i guess i better start working more overtime hours to pay off the repairs :cry: