Help! My drive shaft is coming apart!
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Help! My drive shaft is coming apart!
So, I've been having this terrible vibration in my truck and I crawled under to check it out. I noticed that the drive shaft, going to the back wheels, is very loose in what looks like the U Joint. I guess my question is what do I need to do to fix it? Do I need a whole new U Joint or can I tighten this one up somehow? It looks like there is a circlip and a cover over where it connects. If someone could help me out it would be much appreciated. Thanks guys!!!!!
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Thanks, I've never done one before. Can I just pop out the circlips and it will all come apart?
As you can tell I haven;t done a ton of work on this truck.
As you can tell I haven;t done a ton of work on this truck.
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go to a driveshaft shop and they'll put a new U joint in in about 30 minutes. Or you can search how to do it an spend 4 hours beating on it with a hammer and cussing it like i did. how do you have 1200 posts and not know what a U joint is or the basic concept of changing one? O_o
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go to a driveshaft shop and they'll put a new U joint in in about 30 minutes. Or you can search how to do it an spend 4 hours beating on it with a hammer and cussing it like i did. how do you have 1200 posts and not know what a U joint is or the basic concept of changing one? O_o
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seriously, trying to change one yourself is not worth it, unless you have access to a press. at least for me, it took FOREVER. i had to cut the old one to get it out and it took like 2 or 3 hours to beat the new one in. Never again. you can either drive to a driveline place or if you have another ride you could pull the driveshaft out yourself and take it there as it would be cheaper that way. around here its like 30-40 bucks parts and labor included if you pull it and take it in. and it was just kind of a mind blowing moment when you didnt know, sorry if i came off as being a dick. if youve never had issues with it you wouldmt know anything about it.
#7
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I've done them before by hand, it's a medium amount of PITA.
If you don't have a big bench vise and some sockets that are just slightly smaller (outside diameter) than the hole in the yoke, and another one that's slightly larger, I wouldn't bother with the hammer method.
If you do have the above, mark the sections so you can align them the same way on reassembly. Take the clips out, use the small socket to push the u-joint out one way (into the larger socket), until that bearing cap comes loose. Then push the u-joint the other way to get the first cap out. Then the cross bar center section will come out. Repeat for the other yoke.
Assembly - take a bearing cap off the new u-joint, start it in one side of the yoke. Fit the center cross bar section, then press the other cap on. Press them into the yoke until you can fit the clips.
Generally speaking, it's one of those things that's rather frustrating to do unless you have the correct tools, I'd agree with the suggestion to just take it somewhere and let them do it.
If you don't have a big bench vise and some sockets that are just slightly smaller (outside diameter) than the hole in the yoke, and another one that's slightly larger, I wouldn't bother with the hammer method.
If you do have the above, mark the sections so you can align them the same way on reassembly. Take the clips out, use the small socket to push the u-joint out one way (into the larger socket), until that bearing cap comes loose. Then push the u-joint the other way to get the first cap out. Then the cross bar center section will come out. Repeat for the other yoke.
Assembly - take a bearing cap off the new u-joint, start it in one side of the yoke. Fit the center cross bar section, then press the other cap on. Press them into the yoke until you can fit the clips.
Generally speaking, it's one of those things that's rather frustrating to do unless you have the correct tools, I'd agree with the suggestion to just take it somewhere and let them do it.
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a few of mine stuck to the joint itself instead of the cap and i almost dropped them in the dirt but yea they usually do stick in place. nice how-to BTW short and sweet, but still long enough to explain well
#12
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That photo looks like that is a CV (double cardan) joint. Unless you have rebuilt one of those on a Toyota before, I would opt for a driveline shop to do the repair. I tried tearing apart an old CV joint shaft I had laying around and gave up after an hour or two. I have a press and assortment of tools and just could not quite get it apart. Probably could have if I had to. When the CV in my rear shaft went out, I took it into the shop and let them do it. The guy told me they lose money on those (Toyota CV joints) since it takes way more time that the book rate gives them. I think they charged me like $30-40 above the parts cost and that was well worth it to me.
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^^ i still have a torn apart CV laying in my garage, I gave up on it and used it as a "good excuse" to buy a heavy duty driveline lol. I second the dont mess with CV's side
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All right, well I got the driveshaft out but I am having 0 luck finding replacement u joints. Toyota says this is a NON-servicable part and therefore does not sell U Joints.
You guys have any info on this or should I just opt to buy a new driveshaft from Toyota?
I'm going to try a driveshaft repair shop but am worried they will tell me the same thing.
You guys have any info on this or should I just opt to buy a new driveshaft from Toyota?
I'm going to try a driveshaft repair shop but am worried they will tell me the same thing.
#16
In over 20 years of owning Yota's, I think I have only done one (1) U-joint. Before then I was into Nissan/Datsuns, so I have done a few of the nastys. lol
Thanks for the refresher course, and the reminder as why we wheel Yota's in the first place.
Find a different part source, they are replaceable. I use Napa a lot for something like this, Discount or Auto Zone etc...should get you there. Just refuse anything Chinese if there is an option. Should be around $12-$20 each.
BTW...If you are playing in the mud/water, I would spray U-joints, suspension points and all seals with WD40 before you get them wet. Mud comes off so much easier afterward.
Sure, mud looks cool and all but it is grinding compound to moving parts.
Thanks for the refresher course, and the reminder as why we wheel Yota's in the first place.
Find a different part source, they are replaceable. I use Napa a lot for something like this, Discount or Auto Zone etc...should get you there. Just refuse anything Chinese if there is an option. Should be around $12-$20 each.
BTW...If you are playing in the mud/water, I would spray U-joints, suspension points and all seals with WD40 before you get them wet. Mud comes off so much easier afterward.
Sure, mud looks cool and all but it is grinding compound to moving parts.
Last edited by sixstringslut; 02-07-2012 at 08:58 AM.
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In over 20 years of owning Yota's, I think I have only done one (1) U-joint. Before then I was into Nissan/Datsuns, so I have done a few of the nastys. lol
Thanks for the refresher course, and the reminder as why we wheel Yota's in the first place.
Find a different part source, they are replaceable. I use Napa a lot for something like this, Discount or Auto Zone etc...should get you there. Just refuse anything Chinese if there is an option. Should be around $12-$20 each.
BTW...If you are playing in the mud/water, I would spray U-joints, suspension points and all seals with WD40 before you get them wet. Mud comes off so much easier afterward.
Sure, mud looks cool and all but it is grinding compound to moving parts.
Thanks for the refresher course, and the reminder as why we wheel Yota's in the first place.
Find a different part source, they are replaceable. I use Napa a lot for something like this, Discount or Auto Zone etc...should get you there. Just refuse anything Chinese if there is an option. Should be around $12-$20 each.
BTW...If you are playing in the mud/water, I would spray U-joints, suspension points and all seals with WD40 before you get them wet. Mud comes off so much easier afterward.
Sure, mud looks cool and all but it is grinding compound to moving parts.
Dealer wants $1150 for the entire driveshaft. And the 2 driveshaft places I've called said they won't do it if Toyota doesn't sell the parts.
I'm tempted to pick up one out of a scarp yard but I don't want to buy one and find out I have the same problem again in a couple months.
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