Help! It's Christmas Day and I broke my girlfriends 4Runner - after stereo install
#1
Help! It's Christmas Day and I broke my girlfriends 4Runner - after stereo install
Hello all, first time posting and man if it isn't a doozy.
I bought my girlfriend a new head unit for her 98 4Runner. Being the handy capable boyfriend that I am I went to work installing it.
I unplugged the negative battery terminal and, after removing the stock amplifier, matched up the individual colored wires with their counterparts in the wiring harness adapter I had pick up for this project.
The stereo works great, much better sound and way more features; the only thing is now the vehicle doesn't start.
If the battery is plugged in and the key is in the ACCE or ON position the car displays the check engine, battery, and open door warnings. The stereo and all of the electronic work as expected but there is the annoying ticking of the open door warning even when the doors are closed. When I turn the ignition I can hear something happening in the engine bay (sounds like electric switches being flipped) but I can not hear the starter cranking.
The issue persists even when the new stereo is no longer connected to the vehicle.
I was able to get the vehicle running twice after having reseated the negative battery terminal and when it started it worked as expected but it wouldn't start consistently.
I've already checked all of the fuses both in the engine bay and under the steering wheel.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to go about getting my girls car to start reliably again?
I bought my girlfriend a new head unit for her 98 4Runner. Being the handy capable boyfriend that I am I went to work installing it.
I unplugged the negative battery terminal and, after removing the stock amplifier, matched up the individual colored wires with their counterparts in the wiring harness adapter I had pick up for this project.
The stereo works great, much better sound and way more features; the only thing is now the vehicle doesn't start.
If the battery is plugged in and the key is in the ACCE or ON position the car displays the check engine, battery, and open door warnings. The stereo and all of the electronic work as expected but there is the annoying ticking of the open door warning even when the doors are closed. When I turn the ignition I can hear something happening in the engine bay (sounds like electric switches being flipped) but I can not hear the starter cranking.
The issue persists even when the new stereo is no longer connected to the vehicle.
I was able to get the vehicle running twice after having reseated the negative battery terminal and when it started it worked as expected but it wouldn't start consistently.
I've already checked all of the fuses both in the engine bay and under the steering wheel.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to go about getting my girls car to start reliably again?
#4
It sounds like the battery terminals aren't getting good contact. Do they have any corrosion, either on the battery clamps or battery posts? Is it side post or top post? I'd try giving them a good cleaning with a wire brush or even sandpaper will work in a pinch. Also make sure the cables look good where they connect to the clamps and make sure that looks good. Hope this helps solve ur problem and merry christmas.
#6
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I believe your hearing your starter relay flipping from the on to off position rapidly due to poor connection and since your battery terminals were the first and last thing you touched I'd start there. I've also had enough relay issues in my ford to know that sound rather well. Clean your terminals with a terminal brush (cheap and very usefull) and tighten them up. Hand twisting them back on the posts is not good enough. If that doesn't do it and they are corroded I'd just replace them. If it still doesn't start you can at least rule that out and stRt working your way back through your actions. Best wishes brother.
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#8
Check terminals, but my money is that none of the above suggestions are correct.
Look under the knee panel (under steering column) and if you have a mess of wires going everywhere with zipties, you have an aftermarket alarm. If you don't have the Keyfob, yank the aftermarket alarm out and your truck will start. MOST cheapo car toys type systems use a starter wire circuit interrupt wire, so you will have to splice that back together. The relays clicking and everything else going on tells me 99.99999% the alarm system has been armed, which is what happens when you disconnect/reconnect battery terminals. Particularly when you don't have any way to shut it off, or it has malfunctioned previously (people will usually cut the wires to the speaker that makes the god awful squawking noises since they can't figure out how to uninstall the alarm)
Look under the knee panel (under steering column) and if you have a mess of wires going everywhere with zipties, you have an aftermarket alarm. If you don't have the Keyfob, yank the aftermarket alarm out and your truck will start. MOST cheapo car toys type systems use a starter wire circuit interrupt wire, so you will have to splice that back together. The relays clicking and everything else going on tells me 99.99999% the alarm system has been armed, which is what happens when you disconnect/reconnect battery terminals. Particularly when you don't have any way to shut it off, or it has malfunctioned previously (people will usually cut the wires to the speaker that makes the god awful squawking noises since they can't figure out how to uninstall the alarm)
Last edited by DeathCougar; 12-25-2013 at 11:18 PM.
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