GREEN4SKIN'R

Well, here I am with my second post. After countless hours of surfing,searching and e-mailing I believe that I currentently have exponentially more questions than those I have found answers to. Let me start by saying that I have wanted a S/C for about as many years as they have been produced, but have always had higher priorities,UNTIL NOW! Also let me say that I over anylize almost every decision I make,UNTIL NOW. So I bought my new S/C thinking that I would bolt it on and be done(that didn't exactly pan out). So here I am reaping the fruits of my over zealous jump into the supercharger arena. So I am starting this thread to help me find answers to all my questions (pretty selfish don't you think),(me either). By the way I think it should be in my signature but I have a 1996 4Runner V6 4X4 auto. First off can you guys explain the differences between the SMT6 and the URD module that comes with the fuel upgrade. Pros, cons, limitations, upgrade-ability, etc. I definately plan on doing some tranny mods. Valving for sure but what are your experiences with torque convertors as well as what is the best tranny cooler? I've pretty much decided that I will be "doing it all" at least as far as what is best for my engine. I'm not trying to get 380 HP to my rear wheels just get the most performance I can without going over the top in search every last HP. As I stated in my first post, I live in Ca and don't want to fail a smog test or have to remove/swap components every two years. So if I could get responses specific to my criteria I would truly appreciate it. I definately have more questions but I want to get this thing rolling. Thanks, Steve

GREEN4SKIN'R

1) I don't think so by what I have read but what is the possibility that I could get by with upping my fuel pump and doing a (FMU?) mod? Basically trying not to have to deal with injectors and a piggyback controller?

2) I plan on getting the TRD headers and having them ceramic coated black. For the exhaust I think at this point I will have one made for me as opposed to an over the counter. I would really be happiest if my truck sounded as close to what it does mow after all of this is done. Any reccomendations?

Good Times

I'm not sure if you searched and read this thread but just in case, check it out again:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...t=supercharger
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...hlight=urd+mod
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...hlight=urd+mod

Ok I stopped cuz this is too much searching for me. But you get the point.

Good luck

GREEN4SKIN'R

Yeah I 've read two of the three (all three now) so thanks for that but you will notice that they still don't answer my questions, Steve

ebelen1

Don't have a s/c but did research for one (and all the other goodies needed). One of the most useful things I did was call URD. They have an office in Orange County so depending on where you are in Socal, they're probably not super far away. They were great and really helpful on what was needed, how much everything would cost and where I could find stuff they didn't have.

As far as a tranny cooler, many of the s/c guys have the TRD tranny cooler. Some have said that it's the same exact one that many other autos have; the Hayden 1678 tranny cooler.

rimpainter.com

The SMT and FTC are very similar. I have no experience with the FTC, so I will only speak on the SMT 6. The SMT is very user-friendly. The maps are easy to manipulate. The one thing I do know about the SMT 6 that's "better" (subjective) than the FTC is that you can switch maps (2 available) from A to B (or vice versa) on the fly. In other words, if you are going up to the mountains, you can flip a switch and go to a leaner map for more power. Then switch back as you come down to Sea Level again (or whatever).

The SMT also has RPM-activated switches, a couple of them if I am not mistaken. That's a cool feature really - even though I currently do not use it.

The install of the SMT will be easy because a few of us have done it now. Mark (midiwall) and a few others helped me. Now I know a decent amount about the install, and what worked and what didn't.

You need the VB upgrade FOR SURE if you have an AUTO. Mark has a TQ Conv upgrade and can tell you more about that. Hayden makes a tranny cooler that everyone seems to like here.

I did not upgrade my injectors. In retrospect, I probably should have. No matter what you will need to upgrade the fuel pump, do the free FMU mod, and get a piggyback. So the real question is if you can get by without upgrading the injectors. Yes, you can, but you are going to end up retarding the living heck out of the ignition map. With bigger injectors you can flow more fuel, which generally means a cooler combustion chamber, which means when tuned properly, more power. That's the simple answer. Also, when you have the intake manifold pulled off for the SC'r install, well that's a great time to do the injectors anyway.

I have never heard of black ceramic coating, but that's cool. Keep in mind you will be dropping around $1000 for the headers installed + coating.

GREEN4SKIN'R

Yeah the point you bring up about the injectors be easy to get to while the intake is off is exactly why I'm trying to make all the correct decisions first and haven't just slapped on the S/C. I found out about the ceramic on the Gadget site. It comes in a few colors. Luckily I live in a big city and can get it done locally. I also haven't been able to find comparisons between the Bosch and Supra injectors, so I'd love insight on that as well.

GREEN4SKIN'R

I also was curious about any updates to the problem of constantly having to reset your ECU with the EFI fuse. Is that still a problem with the piggyback modules?

rimpainter.com

The need to reset the ECU is not really a "problem," resetting just makes the fuel map changes more prominant at first because the two start battling one another as time goes by. Timing adjustability is your best friend in all this. I have 10 degrees of timing retard in places to prevent audible ping. I also have fuel dumping in the ping zones and approaching redline under large throttle opening conditions. With proper timing control, the SMT is a "plug and forget it" device. A few guys are looking into other methods of tricking the ECU and/or looking into buttons/switches that will reset the ECU. My advice to you would be to tune out the ping via the ignition map, then use the fuel map to further safeguard the situation.

Oh, one other thing you should do is get an EGT guage. Tap and weld the TRD headers prior getting them coated for the K-type thermocouple bung/probe. An EGT guage is one thing I totally dropped the ball on. I should have done the EGT guage PRIOR to installing everything so I could get baseline EGT's, then compare post SC'r and tune accordingly.

GREEN4SKIN'R

I am planning on the gauge already but prepping it before the coating is a great point, thanks. As far as the preliminary settings for the piggyback, hopefully someone will be able to give me the heads up for my rig?

rimpainter.com

Yeah, I can actually send you a ping elimination map that you can load. Or, I can just post my maps here so you can see what I am talking about. You will be amazed at how much timing I am retarding in the ignition map. How anyone can run their 5VZ without timing mods is beyond me.