OicnaiC

I really want to install some guy wires on my Runner because I play on a lot of trails with low hanging branches and such, and adding my 2" body lift only made it worse. I dont have the money to invest in a new bumper right now since I'm in the process of moving out to college so here's what I'm thinking: Running the wires to the front of the hood and attaching them under the bugflector on the side of the fender well, I know they make antenna mounts that mount like that. The only thing is I dont know a good way to attach the wires there. Any Ideas???

Another thing, my rack sits back really far on my roof so the guy wires will kinda rub on my roof any ideas on how to prevent/ minimize damage from that?

Sorry for being long winded

PoBoy

Guy wires are great and look damn cool. HOWEVER, they need to be as raised as possible. If you can get a STRONG antenna mount and actually connect the wire a good 2 inches above your hood, that would be best. No matter how tight you make that wire, it will still vibrate like crazy on the road. If you make them like mine, you will have metal clamps on the ends which will make dinner of your hood and roof...

A suggestion for the hood is to actually run double the wire and NOT clamp it at the hood end. So you will actually have 2 wires (really just one but doubled) running along each side. Then get some lamb skin like padding (something that is very soft, dries fast, and drurable) and put that around the hood end.

For the roof? is there a way to bring your roof rack forward at all? I am picturing a clamp cracking your windshiled which is probably NOT what you want.

If you are looking for parts here is a directory with some pics of what I used:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/po_boy/4Runner/guy_wires/

OicnaiC

Well, I think I'm just going to have to wait and get the extension for my Load warrior. Thats the only way to move the rack forward without looking stupid. I'll have to get longer rails too mine are factory and end at the back of the rear door. Oh, what a pain. I hate waiting to do bad ass mods like this.

PoBoy

Get some load bars from Thule, Yakima, ect and then Ubolt your rack to that. Then you can jsut move the load bars forward to the end of your channels and your rack on the load bars forward to virtually extend your OEM rack channels. Or do you not have a safari rack?

OicnaiC

I really didn't understand any of that. I don't have a safari rack, it's a Yakima Load Warrior. I don't know if that makes a difference in what you were talking about but I have no clue.

PoBoy

Got a picture of it? Is the load warrier, just 2 bars that go across the top? or is it a basket too? or is it a basket and not load bars?

PoBoy

See in the picture below, I have load bards by Thule and then a safari rack bolted to the bars. The rack hangs out farther than the bars, so I can move the load bars to the end of the OEM roof rack channels and the safari rack will thus be even farther past the channels. SOrry its kind of hard to explain. Take a picutre of what you have. That would help. This is such a cool mod, Id hate for you to give up on it...

OicnaiC

Ok this is what I've got:


My main problem is that my factory rails are so short.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Even with the 18" extension, your rack would be to far back to use the guy lines.

Your best bet would be to move the rack forward on Yakima cross bars so it sits forward like mine, then you could hook up the lines.

Quick Photochop job to add the lines in

One advantage to having the rack on crossbars is you can carry more weight in/on the rack.

Disadvantage?
The rack sits higher in the air.

OicnaiC

Corey,
I would set mine forward like yours but there are 2 things I dont like about it (on my rig). I dont really like the look of the yak towers and rails under the rack and I dont want to block my sun roof.

I'm currently experimenting on ways to set the rack farther up, I've already gained 4-5" forward just messing around so I might figure something out.