Getting an e-locker
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Getting an e-locker
I am getting a whole e-locker axle out of another 3rd gen that has over 190k miles on it. I think I am just going to put some good gear oil in it and swap the whole axle into my 98 SR5. They both have the 4.10 ratio so I won't have to be concerned about the front diff. As far as I know it should be a pretty straight forward swap because I am getting the factory switch for it also. Do you guys think I should spend the time and money replacing bearings on it or just put it in and drive it? I will likely put my brakes on it if they are in better shape but the rest should be a straight bolt on operation...
Anyone have any input on the deal? I will try to get some pictures of the swap and post up my comments. The yard I am buying it from has a 90 day guarantee on the parts so I think I will just put it in and change the fluid...
Anyone have any input on the deal? I will try to get some pictures of the swap and post up my comments. The yard I am buying it from has a 90 day guarantee on the parts so I think I will just put it in and change the fluid...
#3
how many miles does your truck have on it?
I wouldnt really worry about bearings, its easy enough to pull the shafts and have it replaced.
if you have lower mileage you could just pull your shafts and swap them to the new housing. its like 8 bolts total to swap axle shafts.
I wouldnt really worry about bearings, its easy enough to pull the shafts and have it replaced.
if you have lower mileage you could just pull your shafts and swap them to the new housing. its like 8 bolts total to swap axle shafts.
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The axle codes match on the trucks according to the door jam sticker and the chart the guy at the yard has. I was under the impression they came in 4.10, 4.30 and 4.56
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I paid 380$ for the diff and computer. SR5 is pre-wired for the E-locker thank god. I gutted a LTD 4Runner and converted mine. I had to switch out both diff's when I did mine, as the 99' I gutted had 4:30 gears and my SR5 had 4:10. i wouldn't go by what the door sticker says.
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I paid 380$ for the diff and computer. SR5 is pre-wired for the E-locker thank god. I gutted a LTD 4Runner and converted mine. I had to switch out both diff's when I did mine, as the 99' I gutted had 4:30 gears and my SR5 had 4:10. i wouldn't go by what the door sticker says.
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Does anyone have any info on wiring the locker in a 98 SR5? The old write up in the tech archives is on a web site that is no longer existent. I found this write up below after some searching.
http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/re...ic_locker.html
I am still kind of confused as to where the factory wiring is on the SR5 models and what I need to make it work. I found the plug behind the dash location for the switch and underneath the drivers side passenger seat I found the ABS harness.
So do I need all the wiring from the dash to the axle? I have the harness that attaches to the motor on the axle. I also have the RR DIFF LOCK button that goes in the dash (but its out of a manual so the connector on it doesn't fit the plug behind my dash).
Here is a list of what I have
-Drum to Drum axle
-wiring harness that connects to the e-locker motor
IS this what I NEED?
-Toyota E-locker ECU
-Toyota E-locker switch from an automatic
-Wiring from the E-locker to the dash
http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/re...ic_locker.html
I am still kind of confused as to where the factory wiring is on the SR5 models and what I need to make it work. I found the plug behind the dash location for the switch and underneath the drivers side passenger seat I found the ABS harness.
So do I need all the wiring from the dash to the axle? I have the harness that attaches to the motor on the axle. I also have the RR DIFF LOCK button that goes in the dash (but its out of a manual so the connector on it doesn't fit the plug behind my dash).
Here is a list of what I have
-Drum to Drum axle
-wiring harness that connects to the e-locker motor
IS this what I NEED?
-Toyota E-locker ECU
-Toyota E-locker switch from an automatic
-Wiring from the E-locker to the dash
#14
Does anyone have any info on wiring the locker in a 98 SR5? The old write up in the tech archives is on a web site that is no longer existent. I found this write up below after some searching.
http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/re...ic_locker.html
I am still kind of confused as to where the factory wiring is on the SR5 models and what I need to make it work. I found the plug behind the dash location for the switch and underneath the drivers side passenger seat I found the ABS harness.
So do I need all the wiring from the dash to the axle? I have the harness that attaches to the motor on the axle. I also have the RR DIFF LOCK button that goes in the dash (but its out of a manual so the connector on it doesn't fit the plug behind my dash).
Here is a list of what I have
-Drum to Drum axle
-wiring harness that connects to the e-locker motor
IS this what I NEED?
-Toyota E-locker ECU
-Toyota E-locker switch from an automatic
-Wiring from the E-locker to the dash
http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/re...ic_locker.html
I am still kind of confused as to where the factory wiring is on the SR5 models and what I need to make it work. I found the plug behind the dash location for the switch and underneath the drivers side passenger seat I found the ABS harness.
So do I need all the wiring from the dash to the axle? I have the harness that attaches to the motor on the axle. I also have the RR DIFF LOCK button that goes in the dash (but its out of a manual so the connector on it doesn't fit the plug behind my dash).
Here is a list of what I have
-Drum to Drum axle
-wiring harness that connects to the e-locker motor
IS this what I NEED?
-Toyota E-locker ECU
-Toyota E-locker switch from an automatic
-Wiring from the E-locker to the dash
I know the wiring of an elocker intimately, but I just know how to wire it independently of the ecu.
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how many miles does your truck have on it?
I wouldnt really worry about bearings, its easy enough to pull the shafts and have it replaced.
if you have lower mileage you could just pull your shafts and swap them to the new housing. its like 8 bolts total to swap axle shafts.
I wouldnt really worry about bearings, its easy enough to pull the shafts and have it replaced.
if you have lower mileage you could just pull your shafts and swap them to the new housing. its like 8 bolts total to swap axle shafts.
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