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front driveshaft on 22re (cant get off)

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Old 02-12-2005, 10:59 AM
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front driveshaft on 22re (cant get off)

hey all, i am removing my front driveshaft on my rig before i drop the tranny from the motor (pulling motor) and i cant seem to get the damn thing off!
here is what i did:
i removed the four bolts at the flange between the front axle and the drive shaft but it wont split apart (why?). now i am trying to take the four bolts off at the t-case but those wont even budge!
will wd-40 work? or what! i cant fit a socket on the bolts so that removes a breakerbar possibility.

so whats the trick?
thanks all
Old 02-12-2005, 11:33 AM
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Hit on it with a rubber mallet. That is what works for me. Hit, turn 1/4 turn, hit again, turn, etc. That should work.
Old 02-12-2005, 03:55 PM
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agreed, a rubber mallet on the cast part of the shaft usually works great!. Also WD-40 won't work as good as PB blaster... give that stuff a go...
Old 02-12-2005, 06:22 PM
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if its not comin free. your eather not got the right sized hammer or you arent swingin it fast enough. hit it harder.
Old 02-12-2005, 07:20 PM
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I use a pair of long handled 14mm combination wrenches on mine. These kind are about twice as long as a normal wrench for added leverage. You can put them on the bolt and nut so they are just a small angle apart and then squeeze them between both hands. Usually does the trick. If not, put one wrench (box end) on the nut then use the other wrench to hook onto the open end of the first one to double it's length and that should always work. I always apply some anti-sieze compound on the bolts when putting them back together and tighten them with the same 2-hand squeeze technique. That way I can loosen them up next time.
Old 02-12-2005, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Crawler
I use a pair of long handled 14mm combination wrenches on mine. These kind are about twice as long as a normal wrench for added leverage. You can put them on the bolt and nut so they are just a small angle apart and then squeeze them between both hands. Usually does the trick. If not, put one wrench (box end) on the nut then use the other wrench to hook onto the open end of the first one to double it's length and that should always work. I always apply some anti-sieze compound on the bolts when putting them back together and tighten them with the same 2-hand squeeze technique. That way I can loosen them up next time.
I think needayota has the bolts off and can't separate the flanges. That's how I read it anyway.
Old 02-13-2005, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Glenn
I think needayota has the bolts off and can't separate the flanges. That's how I read it anyway.

Then either a rubber mallet or dead blow hammer to knock them loose or use a flat chisel or big screwdriver and a hammer to force the blade into the notch along one side of the u-joint or CV-joint flange. That will usually do the trick.

Or, if all else fails, you could try locking the front hubs, put in in 4L and just try to move the truck a little bit. The torque should pop the front shaft loose. You might want to have the flange bolts in place, but loose, to keep it from dropping off.
Old 02-13-2005, 06:07 PM
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thanks for the idea's all! well we got it off and it looks like it is supposed to telescope some (like the rear shaft does with ease) but it is locked up for some reason. should i have this looked at?

also i might as well throw this question in here.... what tools do i need when taking measurements of the various clearances on the engine block (like piston ring gap size, oil clearance, etc.)

thanks again guys for helping me through this...
i pull the motor next weekend!
Old 02-13-2005, 06:10 PM
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Yes, it should slide in and out (and even pull apart). Probably the splines are rusted and/or the slip yoke has been pumped so full of grease that the shaft is "hydrauliced" and can't compress the grease and can't pull out due to the suction. On a solid axle truck, this would be a big problem. On IFS, not so much of a problem since the front axle is fixed in place and if it moves, you have a major problem!
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