saulgoode

Yep, my truck has 186k+ miles on it and decided to give mobil1 10-30w high mileage a try (partly because wal-mart ran out of what i normally use castrol HM). So far the results aren't too bad. No leaks from synthetic oil, feels like the engine runs a little quieter (it just may be me) and did a trip houston to dallas and back and it was smooth the whole way through. Now I can say I have a fully synthetic drive train with the tranny fluid, diff fluids, and power steering all mobil1. I'm sure I'll be forgiven!

keithguts

I'm afraid to do this as leaks my start from what i WAS TOLD. I will stick to the 10W40 GTX High M.

saulgoode

I thought the same thing from what I read here, but so far so good no leaks.

keithguts

Hope all goes well for you. How long has it been in the rig?

I'm funny with things like this. I belive that if you use a product for a long time in your rig, it will get use to it. If you change, you might be looking for trouble in some cases. Like GASS I stick to one type, if I do change for some reason, the rig just dosn't seem to run the same, but it might just be me I don't no.

All in all, I do hope all works out for you..............

saulgoode

You know I'm the same way, I stick to chevron gas, toyota OEM oil filters etc... But changing oil has been with me for some time, believe me I thought along time about doing this before i finally did it. If it does start leaking, then it was a bad choice, but until then it'll be better because I do alot of stop and go driving here in Houston. Me and my rig have been together for 6 yrs now. Paid off and loving it!

mkgarrison5

M1 on BITOG has shown many UOA's with a higher level of iron (hinting more piston wear) than other syns like Penzoil Platinum and Valv Synpower.. the Valv synpower is on sale at Advance auto at buy one get one free.. damn good deal. i just bought 24 qts of it.. i normally change my oil at 5-6k miles with synthetic.. i wont go back to M1..

86tuning

On a well maintained engine, if you do get leaks, just fix them. It's not the end of the world ya know

I run synthetics in all of our personal vehicles, but I tend to not put synthetics into old, poorly (or questionably) maintained vehicles.

As for one synthetic oil being better than another, I spoze, but it's surely a much smaller difference than between dinos and synthetics.

Beartracker

It's hard to believe that some people keep coming up with the same old garbage about a product without one bit of proof and some of you believe all the wives tales starter by people on here who don't know what the hell they are talking about!
Mobile1 or any other synthetic oil will NOT make your seals leak on a new or old engine. Mobile 1 does not cause excessive or anymore piston wear than any other oil or synthetic and that's a stupid statement. No oil or synthetic CAUSES piston wear! Not unless it's full of grit or maybe valve grinding compound.
Instead of guessing or believing in some of this garbage on here about Mobile 1 why not just go to there site and email or call them with your concerns and see what they say. Mike

mkgarrison5

you can look on bobistheoilguy.com and search for M1 UOA's there are tons of topics on this fact that alot of M1 UOA's show higher iron wear and sometimes lead. you look at Penzoil Platinum, Valv Synpower, Amsoil and other synthetics and you will see that they show better wear #'s than M1. i used M1 for over 40k miles and got tired of paying that price (when i can buy other synthetics for buy one get on free deals) and tired of hearing that annoying ticking motor noise. i switched to durablend and it idles better and no ticking, switched to Synpower (bOGO at advance auto parts) same thing, no ticking, better idle and etc.. my truck must not like M1 that much. but you can go online to bitog.com and check the #'s out for yourself... nothing wrong with M1 at all, if you want to use it thats fine. i use it in my gears except maxlife in the tranny but i am not going to pay for M1 when i can get other syns cheaper.

SEAIRESCUE

Synthetics are FAR SUPERIOR lubricants compared to dyno oil. Just look at the lab results. They are a better value than dyno oil. You can run them for extended miles and thus change them less often. Dyno oils are "thicker" if you will and thus compensate for wear. Any ticking you hear is a mechanical problem masked by a thick oil. Dyno oils flash off a much lower temperatures thus coking and clogging your rings and oil flow paths... i.e. engine killers. Oil leaks from switching to synthetics is still an oil leak with dyno oil. Synthetics did not cause the problem. The lack of good flow with dyno oils at low temperatures will prematurely kill an engine from induced wear. Higher viscosity dyno oils are an attempt by the manufacturer to protect engines at high temperatures while they perform marginally at normal temperatures. You can keep running that thick sludge if you like but in the end, my synthetic oiled motor will still be humming at 250k miles while your dyno oil motor is suffering from heart disease.

X-AWDriver

Those wear numbers with M1 seems to be negligible since I ran my very raced turbo Eclipse for over 100k miles over 8 years and when the engine was torn down at 130k the piston wear was very minimal along with any of the important parts so that sold me since my Eclipse was driven very hard almost all the time.

Beartracker

mkgarrison5, Do you really believe that Corvette would put Mobile1 in there new vehicle's right off the assembly line if it caused ring wear or was bad for an engine? Do you really think that Mercedes would put it in there engines along with, GMC and others? Do you really think that many of the race cars would use it in there engines if it was going to cause problems? That includes many who are not even sponsored by Mobile Oil co. Do you know that Toyota will still honor there warranty if you decide to switch to Mobile1?If your valves are tapping it's not caused by the oil or Syn your using. You need a tuneup and valve adjustment. If you want true syn pay the price , If you want junk Syn then pay less but you will pay more in the long run.
It's all up to the owner of the vehicle and what they trust and believe in. I have over 90,000 on my Tacoma and have never used anything but Mobile1, 5w30 and changed it every 7,000-8,000 miles and it runs so smooth you can hardly tell it's running when idling. No reason for me to switch, I'm happy!. Mike

mkgarrison5

then dont switch mike lol i wasnt trying to steer you away. i was just saying what i have noticed with proof from uoa's.. my truck is not a fan of M1. besides these yota motors are great low wearing motors and you can run dino EASILY to 5k mile oci's esp GTX, Penzoil and Havoline dino oils.. syns you can run a bit longer. if you look online you will see that the newer dino oils compared to synthetics give jsut as good #'s as syns up to 5k miles. the only time syns shine is when its beyond 5k miles. plus you have a slight addition to heat resistance.. its dumb as hell to say that your motor wont be any good (esp toyota) with dino oils.. tons and tons of yotas driving around with over 200k miles on dino.

also mike, car manufacturers choose factory fills by the lowest bidder.. is that why Ferarri went with Quaker State Synthetic?? lol come on man

Beartracker

mkgarrison5, It's easy to see you have allot to year about marketing. Car manufactures don't use the lowest bidder ,if they did they would all be pouring junk oil in there engines. Competition will not allow that and I know Corvette and other top vehicles are not going to use a lube just because it was the lowest bid. Do you really believe that many Nascar owners use Mobile1 because it was the lowest bidder,Lol?Come on now, even you should know better than that,Lol.
It's also easy to see that you are not going to change your mind even with the real facts pointed out to you so it would be fruitless for me to try to help you make the right decision. As you pointed out above one of the reasons you don't want to use Mobile1 is due to the price. My vehicle means more to me than the extra few dollars I spend every 8,000 miles to go with one of the best Syns I can git.Good luck and I hope your cheap lube works out for you and your vehicle in the long run. Mike

mkgarrison5

thanks mike and its MOBIL1 not MOBILE haha..just yankin your chain.. i havent seen any proof yet that mobil 1 is better than other synthetics. i just go by what i have read from lab reports. i feel very comfortable running other synthetics in a factory yota motor as well as anyone else. Mobil has one of the most aggressive advertising there is so of course you are going to see it plastered everywhere.. also M1 products that are used in nascar ARE NOT the same as street use but we both knew that.. of course nascar drivers who are getting paid by Mobil will say their product is superior. thats common sense.. if you sit down and compile uoa's (proven wear # facts and not the marketing BS) you will see that M1 (in 5w30 or 10w30) is not what its cracked up to be in most cases.. thats the only point i was getting at. so for me it was price and lab proof that steered me away from M1 after 40k miles of use.. well that and that damned ticking, which btw it does NOT do anymore since i switched to a different brand. M1 is a great oil, as great as their marketing makes it out to be? no (imo) now some other weights of M1 is pretty top notch stuff but for the common 5w and 10w30 its pretty much GRP III like MOST other synthetics like Synpower, Syntec, havoline syn and other over the counter syns...