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Flex-a-Lite Cooling Fan 1st Gen

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Old 08-19-2004, 01:49 PM
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Flex-a-Lite Cooling Fan 1st Gen

After my build up I noticed the heat disipation of the new headers was almost none. If I sat at a drive through or bank teller, I would start to get on the VERY HOT side...but not into the red. The engine driven cooling fan was not up to the challenge at low rpm. I had to keep the revs up or let it get hot.

I ordered the Flex-a-Lite fan for these models and installed it. Took about an hour, mostly due to my reading and re-reading of the instructions. Once installed....setting the thrmostat was tricky. This is the most important part of the install and the LEAST explained in the instructions. Go Figure. I figured it out with the trial and error method, and now it works great. It comes on full time with the AC and I opted to wire mine to continue to cool after the engine is off.

I am very happy and dont have any cooling issues now. The new fan and new radiator keep it very cool.

No real notice in HP increase. Did'nt expect it. I'd say the stock fan weighs 5-6pds, if that. Lighter than I thought.
Old 08-19-2004, 03:13 PM
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That is my next project is a new radiator and electric fan. How do you like the Modine?
I think I might and do the torus fan though.
Old 08-19-2004, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Runner1988
setting the thrmostat was tricky. This is the most important part of the install and the LEAST explained in the instructions. Go Figure. I figured it out with the trial and error method...
Any detailed notes on this subject much appreciated, since I'm going into an install myself on one of these very soon. Did you get yours from LC Engineering, BTW?

Thanks!
Old 08-19-2004, 03:46 PM
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The Flex-a-Lite thermostat is the weak link in the system. It's mechanical and VERY touchy. We're talking less than 1 degree of knob twist is good for about 5-7 degrees of temp.

I just recalibrated mine again last night and it takes some time. To do it right, you need a decent temp gauge. When I first put my fans in, I figure "ehh, I'll just eyeball the dash gauge and set the fans to come on when it gets to about... there". That was a mistake - I eyeballed low and the fans came on too early. (not a real problem outside of them running a lot more than they need to)

Then I started using my OBD II reader to get a real readout of the temp. That was a LOT better, but really shows how touchy the fan thermostat is. You spend a lot of time tensing up tight on the knob to get JUST A HAIR of movement out of it. Like I said, it doesn't take much to be 5-10* off, and that can cause all sorts of issues.

I know you guys are talkin' 1st gens, so you don't have the luxury of having an OBD II system, and I don't know what options you have. My point here is that setting the fans to come on "right" is tricky. I assume that's what 4Runner1988 is referring to.
Old 08-19-2004, 03:49 PM
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What about the "Black Magic" on a third gen?
Old 08-19-2004, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 4-RUNNIN' FREAK
What about the "Black Magic" on a third gen?
??? You talkin' 'bout the performance kick?

I swear it's there... It was one of the first engine mods I'd done on my truck and you could tell that there was quicker run-up from idle when standing on the pedal.

Like 4Runner1988 says, the fan's about 6lbs which isn't a lot, but you also have to factor in the drag of the blades through the air and overcoming that mass (right on the crank) wanting to stay spinning at the speed it is.

There've been a couple of discussions here about "that mass" and how the clutch works on the fan, but the short form is that no matter what the math says as to amount, you're still making it easier for the engine to spin up.
Old 08-19-2004, 03:58 PM
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I was talking more or less about the CFM. It has a really high cooling factor from what I was reading.
That will be a little down the road if all works out well. Probably before the lift since I am still undecided. I really want air bags.
Old 08-19-2004, 06:10 PM
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I have a Black Magic fan in my '86 and will be reinstalling the stock fan/shroud. As mentioned above the thermostat system is somewhat troublesome. I'm on my second one and I'm just tired of messing w/ it. Whenever I get mud on the sensor, it will not turn off and I have to shut it down manually. However, I'll keep it in my toolbox as a back up.
Old 08-20-2004, 09:00 AM
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Last night gave me a new experience with this fan setup...

As I said above, I had recalibrated the fan the other night. I drove to work yesterday and noted that the fans were running as I got out of the truck. No probs, that's normal.

When I came out at the end of the day, the battery in the truck was dead - dead - dead. Like, really dead.

I've NEVER come out to a dead battery, so I started thinking backward about what had changed. Hmm... I'd been working on the fans...

I popped the hood, and s-l-o-w-l-y applied pressure to the thermo knob in the direction of increasing the turn-on temperature. "click". crap... I had set the fan temp too low and it got hot enough under the hood (I park outside in the sun all day) that the fans kicked on. And, since I had them wired straight to the battery, they'd been running until they couldn't run no more.

sigh...

I still like the concept of the electric fans, but I need to rewire them off of a switched circuit. And That Dang Thermostat...


fwiw Arnold, I had the same issue with mud... I moved the thermostat way high up and that helped a lot.
Old 08-20-2004, 11:22 PM
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Buy a Proform version of the black magic

I bought the proform version of the black magic fan. I just used a piece of angle bracket and drilled 4 holes for each side painted them black. Very easy mod to do and saves $$$ from the black magic. total cost was 125.00 shipped brand new of ebay. this was for my 93 22re truck.
Old 08-27-2004, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by midiwall
The Flex-a-Lite thermostat is the weak link in the system. It's mechanical and VERY touchy. We're talking less than 1 degree of knob twist is good for about 5-7 degrees of temp.
I found a fix for the (*^@&^@$ thermostat on the Flex-a-Lite fans:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=5713465298

I should have it next week and been able to get it installed next weekend. I'll take pics and post up my results (into a new thread for clarity).

I'm gonna look into the practicality of remoting the display. That could be fun.
Old 08-27-2004, 10:58 AM
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I got my fan out of a Chevy Blazer - $25.00, I bought a adj. thermo from flex 0! I've been running it for 5 years now, cool as ice! No problems even w/the ac on!
Hey, I'm cheap, but it works very well!
Old 08-27-2004, 11:10 AM
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Mark-

In addition to that cool deal you are getting off ebay, how about one of those battery drain protector thingies. You know, when the voltage drops too low it switches the discharge to off. Not sure if that is safe, but when the vehicle is off it couldn't hurt - right?

Let me know how the digital thing works. Looks cool!
Old 09-09-2004, 01:44 PM
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I wanted to give status on my idea I desribed above...

I've gotten the controller, mocked it up outside of the truck, and it works great.

However... (yeup, there's a "but" in this!)

The controller is pretty big, and it's kindof "experimenters" in nature. i.e., pots that should be low profile board-mounted trimmers are mini pots with shafts; the display isn't designed to be remoted from the board (kinda' expected), and the Celsius calibration is based on the choice of the temp tranny.

So there's no "just drop it in as is and go" concept.

In all, I need to
  • Replace three pots with trimmer style so that it will mount somewhere without a fear of jostling the unit calibration or hi-temp cutoff point.
  • Replace a slide SPDT switch with a toggle for dash mounting
  • Remote the display (and replace it with smaller 7-segment panels!)
  • Extend the temp transistor lead from 10" to about 10' - which will require recalibration.
  • Find a place that will support the display and the main board
All very doable, it's just finding time.
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