Fix it or not?
#1
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Fix it or not?
Hello all,
I have a 97 Runner (140k) that has been a pretty decent machine for the last 8 yrs. I have replaced rear bearing seals, starter, suspension (now gas adjust KYB), A/C expansion components, etc. AND all the normal maintenance, somewhat religiously. I even do some of it myself (fuel filter, throttle body, etc.)
I was told during a routine oil change (at a place I trust for the most part), that my rack-and-pinion needs replacement. He took me back to the shop and showed me how the drivers side wheel makes the rod move up and down when he shakes the tire (not just back and forth). He said the inside of the rack cannot be replaced, you need to do the whole thing. The passenger side was fine by the way. Repair quotes -- $850 (plus flush and alignment) for refurbished, or $1350 (plus flush and alignment) for new. The benefit of the new he said, is that it is newer technology and a better system than the older OEM.
2 Questions:
1. Does all this sound legit?
2. I'm due in 10K miles for about a $1k worth of work (timing belt, H2O pump, tune up, flushing of every fluid, etc...) and about $600 for new tires by then. Should I sell this thing now, and put the $2500-3000 towards a 4 Gen? I'll probably by one of those someday anyway, am I hanging on to the past w/ the 97?
I just don't want something else popping up 2yrs from now that will cost $2k to fix, etc...
Thanks for any info you can provide.
I have a 97 Runner (140k) that has been a pretty decent machine for the last 8 yrs. I have replaced rear bearing seals, starter, suspension (now gas adjust KYB), A/C expansion components, etc. AND all the normal maintenance, somewhat religiously. I even do some of it myself (fuel filter, throttle body, etc.)
I was told during a routine oil change (at a place I trust for the most part), that my rack-and-pinion needs replacement. He took me back to the shop and showed me how the drivers side wheel makes the rod move up and down when he shakes the tire (not just back and forth). He said the inside of the rack cannot be replaced, you need to do the whole thing. The passenger side was fine by the way. Repair quotes -- $850 (plus flush and alignment) for refurbished, or $1350 (plus flush and alignment) for new. The benefit of the new he said, is that it is newer technology and a better system than the older OEM.
2 Questions:
1. Does all this sound legit?
2. I'm due in 10K miles for about a $1k worth of work (timing belt, H2O pump, tune up, flushing of every fluid, etc...) and about $600 for new tires by then. Should I sell this thing now, and put the $2500-3000 towards a 4 Gen? I'll probably by one of those someday anyway, am I hanging on to the past w/ the 97?
I just don't want something else popping up 2yrs from now that will cost $2k to fix, etc...
Thanks for any info you can provide.
#2
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1. Don't know about the new one being better technology Sounds fishy (flush what power steering?) and price is out the roof. I would visit a local alignment shop for second opinion.
2. not fixed you will take a big loss on price so fix it then sell it. Most people will ask for price adjustment for timing belt.
just my opinion!
2. not fixed you will take a big loss on price so fix it then sell it. Most people will ask for price adjustment for timing belt.
just my opinion!
#3
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I would definitly get a second opinion and how does the steering feel? By the way, your timing belt isn't due until 180k miles if you have the v6. If you really want a 4th gen then trade it in a get one.
#4
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GOVNOR,
I have a few questions for you...
tough questions....
Does your YOTA giveup on you when you are feeling down, hung over, depressed?
I believe that answer to that, is NO....
So why are you giving up on your runner when its a little down and out? When it needs a part or two...?
Seriously man, don't make me buy that thing off of you just to give it a good home...
Do you fix it? Second opinion?
Yes OF COARSE!!!
On a serious note, on an older vehicle...even with a toyota, I expect to have to fork out some money for some unexpected issue from time to time....hey I have 140,000 Miles on my 99' SR5 rig and NEVER a major issue .....knock on wood
On a older vehicle, It's smart to budget 100- 200 per month for unexpected repairs....
you will know,
when she is ready to go ....
its just not now,
Govnor...
she's just not ready
yes, I know i need help....
ice runner over and out
I have a few questions for you...
tough questions....
Does your YOTA giveup on you when you are feeling down, hung over, depressed?
I believe that answer to that, is NO....
So why are you giving up on your runner when its a little down and out? When it needs a part or two...?
Seriously man, don't make me buy that thing off of you just to give it a good home...
Do you fix it? Second opinion?
Yes OF COARSE!!!
On a serious note, on an older vehicle...even with a toyota, I expect to have to fork out some money for some unexpected issue from time to time....hey I have 140,000 Miles on my 99' SR5 rig and NEVER a major issue .....knock on wood
On a older vehicle, It's smart to budget 100- 200 per month for unexpected repairs....
you will know,
when she is ready to go ....
its just not now,
Govnor...
she's just not ready
yes, I know i need help....
ice runner over and out
Last edited by icerunner; 08-07-2007 at 05:05 PM.
#5
Registered User
WHAT? It's due at 60k for 96/97 and 90k for 98-02!
I'd take it and get another opinion. Could be an inner tie rod. You could take the boot off to inspect the inner tie rod to see if its moving.
I highly doubt the new rack is any better. It's the same thing.
Does the whole rack move? Could be bushings if so.
Last edited by Adam F; 08-07-2007 at 01:41 PM.
#6
Registered User
Timing belt routinely go 90-110k. I know i ve seen me do it . anyways--Gov--just replace it your self. It seems like a two, three hour job tops. Then get the alignment done--All done
but as far as cost--here goes--car payment on a 4th gen with 5-7k down would be like 25k balance=$580 month at 4 years. 7k a year for an asset that will only depreciate over time. Just imagine what 7k could do for your truck now. you would have one bad ass rig
Also, i am not one that is big on debt or long financing terms (house not included). Spend the money on the house/retirement--not a losing investment. Just my .02
but as far as cost--here goes--car payment on a 4th gen with 5-7k down would be like 25k balance=$580 month at 4 years. 7k a year for an asset that will only depreciate over time. Just imagine what 7k could do for your truck now. you would have one bad ass rig
Also, i am not one that is big on debt or long financing terms (house not included). Spend the money on the house/retirement--not a losing investment. Just my .02
#7
Registered User
What Adam said.
Does the entire rack move? Are the bushings shot? Do you know what you're looking at or is he just telling you what you should be looking at? Do you have a friend that is mechanically inclined and can give you a second opinion.
This guy is trying to sell and get your money. You can start with replacing a $20 set of bushings and see if the problem persists. If so, then maybe the shop is correct in their diagnosis. But "new technology" is BS. They rebuild the same racks with the same parts year after year.
Does the entire rack move? Are the bushings shot? Do you know what you're looking at or is he just telling you what you should be looking at? Do you have a friend that is mechanically inclined and can give you a second opinion.
This guy is trying to sell and get your money. You can start with replacing a $20 set of bushings and see if the problem persists. If so, then maybe the shop is correct in their diagnosis. But "new technology" is BS. They rebuild the same racks with the same parts year after year.
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