Pureblindman

Hi there, I am extremely new to the Toyota game. I have been a jeep guy for a long time and finally decided to stop buying rusted and raped XJs/ZJs here in New England, and come over to the jdm side.

im looking to buy a 4runner (3rd gen) and I've done a little bit of research and i know i want the 3.4L V6 for its the "better" motor for my wheeling needs.

i just wonder what are some problems with 4runners and the 3.4. Also if sr5 is worth actually getting since i plan on puttint new suspension in it.

if anyone can tell me info on anything or send me a link to a post that answers my questions exactly I'd truly appreciate it.

83

I don't know as much about 4Runners as you, probably, but my experience with Toyotas is that SR5 is simply a trim package, nothing more. So suspension wouldn't be a part of it. It typically just means chrome, maybe some nice wood paneling inside, full instrument panel, etc. With the trucks anyways, only packages like TRD would affect something like suspension. Otherwise SR5 is typically just a cosmetic package.

From what I've read and my personal experience, there really aren't any problems with the 3.4. Toyota engines are really very problem free, and the 3.4 seems to be impressive even by Toyota standards. Mine has 208,000 miles currently, with only routine maintenance, and drives great with great power. Take into account that the power statement is coming from a guy who's only had little 4 cylinder engines up to this point...

coryc85

Welcome to the world of Toyota! People seem to love the 3.4s. The SR5 is just a trim level, I don't believe it has anything to do with the suspension, so I'm not sure what you mean about if it's worth getting. I believe there was a "Limited" trim level in those trucks that had some extra body cladding and bigger fender flares, and then there is the SR5, which I *think* has smaller black fender flares instead of the painted ones. I would just find the best shape truck that fits your budget, trim level is purely up to your personal tastes. Some of the early 3rd gen 4Runners had a factory rear electric locker, which would be a plus in my book. Best of luck, post up some pics of whatever you end up getting.

Pureblindman

So me being an XJ guy i can tell you exactly what to spot and whats acceptable for rust rot and wear and tear. Being into American big axel whats some thing with these 4x4 systems? I know tcase are chain driven which i hear is a good thing to have for 4x4 even in an XJ. Any special things to look out for?

Malcolm99

Most prefer a 1999 Limited with Multi mode 2wd-AWD-4H-4L and Rear Diff Lock options, some like the SR5 with 2wd-4H-4L with Rear diff lock and add fender flares, most would want the 3.4L with the A340F Transmission which came in mOsT of the Limited and SR5 with a factory wheel package 265/70-R16 and a better sized gear ratio for offroading and upgrading tire size to 33" max before you need to re-gear(but that is debatable aswell of course).

Areas of concern are the rust on the frame at the 4 lowest points, rockers, rear tailgate, rear bumper, and rear diff housing, if any of these are perforated I would walk away as it is an indication that all these locations will be a problem in the next 5 years and require replacement or repairs if ignored.

Mechanically one of the longest lasting V6 gas motors available, but they require a timing belt and water pump every 200,000Km for safe measure, some say sooner, some say later, but I've seen them last past 200,000Km as they are a very robust T-belt. The radiator is known to fail around 200,000Km aswell, and it pumps the auto trans fluid into the rad fluid well driving and when you shut it off it replaces your ATF with under pressure Rad fluid so the next time you drive it you take out the entire auto transmission. Lower ball joints should also be done at 200,000Km with OEM as if they fail you will lose the entire front tire, axle, upper b-j, tire rods and maybe a steering rack. A lot of people just simply don't change ATF, front diff, centre diff, and rear diff fluid, and sometimes when they DIY they remove the shallow headed plugs and install the plugs to tight or round them off before a competent DIY'er got ahold of it, and the front diff plug are socket cap style so you wanna know what torque they should be at. Rear diff axle seals can be problematic if you don't extend the rear diff breather tube as they plug up and force fluid out the seals eventually ruining the bearing, front t-case seal takes a beating aswell in mud so you wanna keep and eye on it since its only holding 2L of oil approx, front rotors are hit and miss for quality, if your 4 piston calipers aren't working perfectly they tend to warp the rotor, your rear brakes and e-brake must be fully functional for the brakes to work as intended in unison. Rear window issues sometimes come up but usually an easy fix. Oh ya and I don't know how many times I've checked compression on a potential 4R and found the incorrect spark plug in it, I dunno why theres a big picture you can't miss showing the correct style, all the compression tests I have done on these different 4R's all fell within range.

For a suspension, the 1999 has the tallest springs, but you can't get a better set up than Sonoran Steels Toyota components 1.2Kit COMPLETE, go to his sight and read for a bit, also read his brake "upgrade" info. http://sonoransteel.com , you can piece it out but I found the time wasted doing it half ass breaking other things, one is better off buying a complete kit and installing it correctly which is tricky, but Steve walks you through it if needed.

Those are my concerns after having 2 Sr5's for offroading and upgrading to the 1999 Limited loaded, leather-e-locker, and multi mode transfer case. and buy one with 200,000KM or less, they are out there and will last a long time.

Charchee

I'll cover a few of the 4WD options. From 96 to 2000, the front differential "ADD" is engaged via a vacuum actuator and a vacuum switching valve. I like this setup pretty well. The only issues that tend to occur with these are failed switches in the front end which are easily replaced and rarely, a failed vacuum switching valve. In an emergency, the front end can be locked or unlocked by applying vacuum to the actuator lines from another vacuum source. On these models, the SR5's were generally a stick shifted transfer case and did not have an electronic actuator. They were a little more fool proof. The Limited models usually had the multi mode transfer case setup that had a button on the side of the shifter which would electronically shift the case into an AWD mode that could be run on dry pavement. Pulling the stick back would lock it into regular part time 4WD. These systems were a little more complicated and left room for some rare electronic bugs that aren't expensive to fix but take some time to troubleshoot. These earlier models in both SR5 and Limited were available with an electronic locking rear end "RR DIFF LOCK". This was discontinued for the 2001 and 2002 models which all have the multi mode system and an electronic actuator in the front end.

I guess my favorite configuration is the one like my 2000 SR5 parts 4Runner had. No multi mode and a rear diff lock. I have always called that setup a Tacoma drivetrain. Now that's just me. If you live in the city or where you get a lot of ice though, I would definitely want the multi mode. I have an 02 model that came from New York. Not an SR5. They sell them that way up north but down here we only see SR5s and Limiteds. I took out the leather interior and all the SR5 features from my 2000 and put them in my 02. I also took it's front and rear ends along with it's diff lock harness and rolled them under mine as well. I like to think it's the best of both worlds.

By the way, here in AR, a good clean 4Runner with less than 200K miles goes for between $5000 and $8000. Be open minded as to where in the country you buy one. You might find a rust free low mile rig down south for a price low enough to fly down and pick it up, or have it hauled up to you. New England rust can make owning a vehicle a chore rather than a joy. I used to love working on my 01 southern runner and when something would need done, I would tackle it with a smile. With this Yankee runner I have now, I get out my drill and taps before I ever get started tinkering because I know I'm going to break off at least one bolt.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Charchee just think if all your vehicles lived up North .

Funny how people from California and the Southwest laugh at us when we state how long something takes

I think buying a vehicle from a winter free area is a great idea .

Charchee

Man, I got that 02 for a song when I made a big deal out of the rust on it. I patted myself on the back all the way home for the deal I made, but I would pay $2000 to a wizard if he would waive his wand and remove all of the rust. That thing is perfect if it weren't for the rust.

I just climbed out from under my 89 and you can see yourself in the shine of the frame. Bolts are all still gold and the original cat looks like one out of a year old truck. I have seen the back side of every part in two of these vehicles. I'm pretty sure I could put one together myself if it rust isn't in the equation. My next Yota is going to have a perfect body and 300K miles on it. I'd rather go through the the entire powertrain than deal with another rusted out rocker/fender.

83

I've felt very lucky to be able to own vehicles as old as a 78 Toyota pickup and not had to deal with rusty bolts. Still gotta be careful on those exhaust bolts, but everything else was like new. Montana gets winter, but we don't put a bunch of salt on the roads, and the air is dry.

I know I have one of the Tacomas that were recalled, had it lived in a rust state. Even though I'm in Montana, I'm really careful about keeping the frame clean.

Pureblindman

I do appreciate all the info. Some knowing how hard our winters are can understand the struggle for "clean": vehicles and some of you not in our boat would think our "clean" is fubar. So im located close to Boston and fixed income in sense of buying toys. Looking towards western Ma is like looking in another state and i have been checking all on NE. Looking south would be great but i have no real way of going out and getting it. I have in mind a 97 sr5 and its priced "low". This being my project rust on the body is something that doesn't bother me 100%, but to a certain extent i cant have holes in floors or rot on difs or anything really important. Im not afraid to sand away and reattach anything onn the body/fenders cut. My budget is 3k but id like to buy for just under and cold green cash talks. I will link my first contender and i am going to make an effort to look at this weekend or this week if weather is bad for the weekend.

https://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/cto/6032415831.html

RAD4Runner

O.P., IIRC from a post somewhere, the 1999 has the best ground clearance among the 3r-gens (if only slightly more than the other years).

This is the only critical/major problem I have heard of about the 3rd-gens. This is because (due to the coil-spring setup) the lower ball-joint that carries the weight is subject to a pulling force (tension) which puts extra stress on the "lip" that captures the ball. On the other hand, on the first and second gen 4Runners with torsion bars, the upper ball joint that carries the weight is under compression; the steel body of the ball-joint (stronger than the "lip") carries the compression force.

Happy shopping!

flg8r22

iTrader: (1)

There is something to be said about a truck with matching tires let alone nice matching tires. Someone just put over $800 worth of tires on the truck in the ad. It seems owners that would do that, chances are pretty good they cared for the rest of the vehicle. But I'm a tire guy, I love the smell of new tires and that's what caught my eye. Good luck with your search.

Charchee

Good price on that truck. If you were a hard drinkin, gravel road, mud hole kind of guy, that might be the one for, what we call down south, our hunting truck, but that's one's not right for a first timer. I tell you that from experience. I have one almost exactly like it. It's even white but I knew what I was getting in to when I bought it. These rigs were built to a standard unmatched by today's $60,000 suvs.. They are elegant in their simplicity, components are all perfectly matched, beautifully made and they are a blast to work on and drive. That's why us guys love them so much. I don't want this to be your first one and I'll tell you why.

The underside of that thing is destroyed. I thought my bumper was bad but that one can be torn off by a 2 year old girl. It is completely rusted through. The rockers are rusted all the way through from the back and only the paint is still there. I say that because you couldn't see the rust coming through mine before I bought it but there are actual holes there after two years in a rust free zone. A lot of the axle housings in these are known to rust completely through. Mine wasn't there yet but on it's way. I can almost guarantee that the windshield leaks. Crawl under the dash and look for signs of rust on the brackets under there. I bet you find some. Leaks like that will wipe out an electrical system. What Malcolm said up there about the lower ball joints, forget about it. If you even try to remove the four 10mm bolts below the joint, They are going to snap off the first time and then pull the threads when you put them back in. Mine have a size bigger bolts in them now because of this. I had to drill and tap them all out. Hell, I bet I've drilled and tapped 20 holes in mine and it's in better shape than this one. Work like that is an everyday thing in my business so it's kind of second nature to me and I'm good at it. If you aren't, please, keep saving your money and buy you a decent one for your first. Ha Ha! I just thought about my dad giving me the talk about waiting for the right first girl. Sounded just like what I'm telling you.

Again, we buy these 20 year old trucks because they are special. If you want to have as much fun with your Runner as we do, don't buy on impulse or because it's cheap. Wait on the right deal and pay what it's worth. There is a 2000 Limited in the town where I work with 185K on it and I have offered the guy $9000 a dozen times and he won't take it yet. One day he will and I'll cough it up. I've been saving for years for the perfect 3rd gen that I'll have for the rest of my life.