A few general questions, and winterization help.
11-16-2008, 10:40 AM
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A few general questions, and winterization help.
1999 4runner v6 Auto tranny
You'll have to excuse me if I ask any 'stupid' questions, I come from a family where when something went wrong, the car went to the dealer.
Getting ready to go home for thanksgiving next week, and while I'm home I'm going to do some maintenance on the 4runner. Getting It ready for the long winter.
Its going to be doing mainly short trips to the ski hill every day, and some longer trips every few weeks. It will run maybe 15 minutes max then sit for a while then 15 back.
1. I'm wondering If I should switch to 20w synthetic to help out with this? I switched it to synthetic when I got it and there have been no leaks.
2. I'm also thinking about draining and filling the coolant, as I don't know when it was done last. Any easy ways to tell if this needs to be done? Is it fairly simple?
3. All diff/transfer fluids to synthetic, is it worth the extra $?
4. My transmission isn't as smooth as the Hondas I'm used to driving. I'm not sure if this is a Yota thing, or what. I was thinking it might be a good idea to do a complete flush, at 104k not knowing when/ if it was done last. I do notice hard shifts every now and then, and when cold (like 30 degrees out, first when first started), it really likes to hold onto first gear, up to around 2500RPM and about 25 miles per hour. It will shift if i gas it, is this normal?
5. I think I can hear valves clicking when it is idling, but I'm not 100% on that, what would cause this/should I be worried?
6. It seems the rear defrost grid is really weak, but the heated mirrors work well, has anyone else noticed this on theirs?
Thats it for now, I may thikn of a few more later.
Thanks!
You'll have to excuse me if I ask any 'stupid' questions, I come from a family where when something went wrong, the car went to the dealer.
Getting ready to go home for thanksgiving next week, and while I'm home I'm going to do some maintenance on the 4runner. Getting It ready for the long winter.
Its going to be doing mainly short trips to the ski hill every day, and some longer trips every few weeks. It will run maybe 15 minutes max then sit for a while then 15 back.
1. I'm wondering If I should switch to 20w synthetic to help out with this? I switched it to synthetic when I got it and there have been no leaks.
2. I'm also thinking about draining and filling the coolant, as I don't know when it was done last. Any easy ways to tell if this needs to be done? Is it fairly simple?
3. All diff/transfer fluids to synthetic, is it worth the extra $?
4. My transmission isn't as smooth as the Hondas I'm used to driving. I'm not sure if this is a Yota thing, or what. I was thinking it might be a good idea to do a complete flush, at 104k not knowing when/ if it was done last. I do notice hard shifts every now and then, and when cold (like 30 degrees out, first when first started), it really likes to hold onto first gear, up to around 2500RPM and about 25 miles per hour. It will shift if i gas it, is this normal?
5. I think I can hear valves clicking when it is idling, but I'm not 100% on that, what would cause this/should I be worried?
6. It seems the rear defrost grid is really weak, but the heated mirrors work well, has anyone else noticed this on theirs?
Thats it for now, I may thikn of a few more later.
Thanks!
Last edited by Yukon; 11-16-2008 at 01:34 PM.
11-16-2008, 01:34 PM
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11-16-2008, 04:48 PM
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My $.02:
First of all, as some wise person once said, the only stupid questions are the ones you don't ask. (There are limits to that, but you get the point.)
I'd stick with the factory recommended oil weight, 5W-30. The "5" part of the multi-viscosity oil will be better for cold starts and short trips in cold weather. I think synthetic is definitely worth it, especially now that the price difference between synthetic and dino seems to have narrowed.
I also think synthetics are worth it in your drivetrain, especially in colder climates. I'm getting ready to change all mine out for synthetics; my 4runner is new to me about 3 months ago.
And it is also worth it, IMO, to reset the known starting point on how many miles are on your engine coolant and transmission fluid in a vehicle with an unknown service history.
In regards to your other questions, I'll let more knowledgeable people chime in. (I have the 4-cyl 3RZ motor.)
First of all, as some wise person once said, the only stupid questions are the ones you don't ask. (There are limits to that, but you get the point.)
I'd stick with the factory recommended oil weight, 5W-30. The "5" part of the multi-viscosity oil will be better for cold starts and short trips in cold weather. I think synthetic is definitely worth it, especially now that the price difference between synthetic and dino seems to have narrowed.
I also think synthetics are worth it in your drivetrain, especially in colder climates. I'm getting ready to change all mine out for synthetics; my 4runner is new to me about 3 months ago.
And it is also worth it, IMO, to reset the known starting point on how many miles are on your engine coolant and transmission fluid in a vehicle with an unknown service history.
In regards to your other questions, I'll let more knowledgeable people chime in. (I have the 4-cyl 3RZ motor.)
11-17-2008, 01:30 PM
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1. I'm wondering If I should switch to 20w synthetic to help out with this? I switched it to synthetic when I got it and there have been no leaks.
Keep the 5w-30 in there. I'd go with a quality synthetic, like Amsoil or Royal Purple.
2. I'm also thinking about draining and filling the coolant, as I don't know when it was done last. Any easy ways to tell if this needs to be done? Is it fairly simple?
If you have doubts, do it. Better safe than sorry. It's fairly simple to do. There is a write-up all over the net
3. All diff/transfer fluids to synthetic, is it worth the extra $?
I switched all of mine last summer to Amsoil (75w-90). I think it's worth it. You have to change it out anyway, so might as well do it with synthetic.
4. My transmission isn't as smooth as the Hondas I'm used to driving. I'm not sure if this is a Yota thing, or what. I was thinking it might be a good idea to do a complete flush, at 104k not knowing when/ if it was done last. I do notice hard shifts every now and then, and when cold (like 30 degrees out, first when first started), it really likes to hold onto first gear, up to around 2500RPM and about 25 miles per hour. It will shift if i gas it, is this normal?
Get it flushed. I got mine flushed over the summer and it definitely shifts better. I just got it done at Toyota. There is a procedure of how you can do it yourself, but it's a bit complicated and if you mess up, you could be in a heap of trouble.
5. I think I can hear valves clicking when it is idling, but I'm not 100% on that, what would cause this/should I be worried?
Sounds like the injectors? They are loud on the 3.4L's.
Keep the 5w-30 in there. I'd go with a quality synthetic, like Amsoil or Royal Purple.
2. I'm also thinking about draining and filling the coolant, as I don't know when it was done last. Any easy ways to tell if this needs to be done? Is it fairly simple?
If you have doubts, do it. Better safe than sorry. It's fairly simple to do. There is a write-up all over the net
3. All diff/transfer fluids to synthetic, is it worth the extra $?
I switched all of mine last summer to Amsoil (75w-90). I think it's worth it. You have to change it out anyway, so might as well do it with synthetic.
4. My transmission isn't as smooth as the Hondas I'm used to driving. I'm not sure if this is a Yota thing, or what. I was thinking it might be a good idea to do a complete flush, at 104k not knowing when/ if it was done last. I do notice hard shifts every now and then, and when cold (like 30 degrees out, first when first started), it really likes to hold onto first gear, up to around 2500RPM and about 25 miles per hour. It will shift if i gas it, is this normal?
Get it flushed. I got mine flushed over the summer and it definitely shifts better. I just got it done at Toyota. There is a procedure of how you can do it yourself, but it's a bit complicated and if you mess up, you could be in a heap of trouble.
5. I think I can hear valves clicking when it is idling, but I'm not 100% on that, what would cause this/should I be worried?
Sounds like the injectors? They are loud on the 3.4L's.
Answered in bold.
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