SloPoke

This is goina be a long post but I'll keep it as simple as I can.

Background: About 5 months ago I got an 84 truck with a 22R that has a broken timing chain. A couple weeks later I found an 86 22R (from a 2wd truck) posted in the FREE section of Pirate about 100 miles from me so I went and picked it up. Borrowed a buddies engine stand and there it's been ever since.

Never being in to an engine before has kept me reluctant to start in on this project. After tons of searchin' and readin' I finally tore in to the 84 yesterday. Got the head off and just like everyone said, there was damage. Dent in #1 piston and one of the valves (smaller one. exhaust right?) is bent. Since this is now a little more entailed than just a timing chain and regasketing for assembly job, I'm not sure what I should do.

For advise sakes, let me say this is not relied on for a daily driver and my final plans or planned use for it is to make it a wheelin' rig. Not a trailer queen but one just street legal enough to drive to/from the trails. Oklahoma has really leinant laws regarding streel legalbilty (if that's a word) and no inspections so no real worries there. It will eventually get converted to Propane but that's only going to happen after the build up and it's a full fledged wheelin' rig.

My ? or ?'s are.....

Option one:
Swap 86 motor in and run it till I have time to fully rebuild the 84 in my garage at my leisure.
but this poses a few questions...
Motor mounts the same or am I goina need to mod them? Edit: Same.
Will the 84 intake manifold bolt up to the 86? (I'm pretty sure it will)Edit: Fits both.

Not goina mod the mounts cuz I really want the 84 engine back in it and want to use the 84 intake cuz it's still all wired/vac. lined up laying on the fender well.

Option two:
Forget about swappin' in the 86 (as I'm not sure of it's internal condition and I'm not really wanting to tear it down and check only to have to regasket and reassemble everything) and just take my time rebuilding the 84 and let the truck sit in the garage till it's done? (I'd really like to get it drivable while I'm rebuild the 84 engine though)
Edit: ended up rebuilding the 86 motor and head.

Either way I'm going to need to order a header. I didn't get the manifold on the 86 and the 84 manifold has provisions for the AI system that's not in use anymore. The 84 has round exhaust holes and the 86 has pear shaped holes. Question is...If I order a Thorly header, will it fit both?? According to the P/N & description on the site, it will. Just wanna verify as I don't want to buy one for each yet. Edit: Fits both.

Thanks for any advise yaul.

BTW: Should have pics to post later today, at least I'm hoping to.

SloPoke

Got pics posted. PICS HERE

any idea what that sleeve thingy is? Seems to have been ground down by the arm of the feul pump. I found it about where I'm holding it in pic 2.

kyle_22r

could that "sleeve" be the rod from the timing chain tensioner? it almost looks like a wrist pin...

86toyota

It's the bottom of the distributor

SloPoke

I think your right Kyle as your the second person to say it's the tensioner rod. I haven't removed the timing cover yet so I haven't seen it first hand. I will next weekend though. I also suspect the wear on the sleeve I mistakenly though came from the fuel pump arm actually came from the chain. I never fit it up against it. I will tonight.

It's not a part of the distributor as it's all there and fits in perfectly. It did get snapped though. Right where the shaft comes out the back side. I'll try to get pics of it later tonight.

SloPoke

84sr5yoty

Looks like a valve guide to me. Here's a a photo from engnbldr's site

http://www.engnbldr.com/R2266BR_WEB.jpg

kyle_22r

that was sort of my thought as well, but aren't valve guides made of bronze? in his pic looks like the piece is steel.

03_4x4Runner

Yeah that is a common place for the distributor case to break at. LC Engineering has some nice replacements if you need a new one

SloPoke

Doesn't seem to be a valve guide as think I can see them all, and yes, they seem to be some type of bronzed something. Again though, I know nothing bout this stuff so I could be wrong.

I won't get time to take off the timing cover till saturday (it's killing me seeing it in the garage and not being able to tinker on it). When I do, I'm suspecting the see a doinked up tensioner. I'll try to get pics and post when I finally find WTF it is/was/where it came from.

My plan so far is just to chill out and rebuild it. I can still see the original cross hatches in the cylinder walls (for the most part) so I think I'm just goina order the kit from engnbldr. Drop the pan, pull/replace the pistons/rings/rods out the top, replace timing set, get my head done locally and reassemble.

Any cons to not getting the cylinders honed and just replacing stuff as described in my current plan?

Don't really know weather or not I should get the oversized valves.
Any cons if I do?
Anything else necassary or should I stick with stock sized valves?

Anything else you can think of I'm not considering or leaving out???

Thanks for the replies guys. Appreciate ya!

kyle_22r

if the hatch is good, i'd say just get the ridge reamed and the block honed. your machinist will tell you what you need to have done. on the other hand you'll have to go through the work of cleaning your pistons thoroughly. also make sure your pin bushings don't have any play(take the piston and try to rock it back and forth along the pin axis, if there's any play you need to get the rod rebushed).

SloPoke

Ended up yanking the motor. Ill be able to order parts on the 19th so only I'll only be cleaning up till then.

Will post more pics when more progress is made.

SloPoke

Got the motor done and back in and should be firing it up tomorrow morn' but I'm not sure of the procedure I should follow with this being my first engine rebuild and all.

Anyways.....looking for initial start up procedure recomendations. Anybody care to share their suggestions/experiences?

From what I've read I'm supposed to....
Prime the oil pump using the fill hole on it.
Then use a drill on the oil pump to prime all the galleys and make sure oil pressure registers on the gauge.
Then just crank to fire it up/set timing/ and make adjustments.

Am I missing or should consider anything else?

TIA

superjoe83

being that the oil pump is driven directly off the crank, you cant use a drill, i would just remove the spark plugs and crank, once you get oil pressure continue cranking for about 10 secs. or so, then try to start it, if it has a new cam you will have to immediately bring the rpm up to 2000 rpm and hold it there for 20-30 min, after that, go do some aggressive driving to help seat the rings (example: get on a road where there aren't many people around and accelerate hard from around 25 up to 60 then allow the engine to slow back down and do this at least 10 times. the first couple hours is the only time that the rings will seat, after that the hone will be worn out and the rings will not seat anymore, good luck...

jimbo74

replace the clutch, pilot, and throwout bearings since the motor is out... will save time later on replacing that stuff as you wont have to spend time dropping the tranny

SloPoke

Thanks man. I followed your instructions and it fired right up.

Did have a problem with the oil sending unit though. It wouldn't register. Since I swapped an 86 motor in an 84 truck I'm figuring the sending units are different. The one on the 84 was damaged so it wouldn't register at all. The one from the 86 registered 3/4 on dash (not running) gauge and dropped instead of raising.

Any idea what the mix up could be? Do the sending units have different resistance or something?

Thanks again for everybodies input. Aside from a slight hang up spot in the carb funtion causing it to slightly load up at idle, it runs like a champ. Carb repair kit or propane swap soon.