black_taco

iTrader: (2)

I realize this topic has been covered over and over again. I know this because I have been searching for hours all over the net. Before my eyes go cross and I end up wasting yet another night in front of the computer please help me!

I have obtained a complete E-Locker axle and need to figure out the wiring. I see that a lot of people use and recommend the Dick Foster method outlined in the link below.

http://www.norcalttora.com/~dick/Wri...ck_control.pdf

Question #1
Is the switch that he is using a momentary switch?

Question #2
I really want to use the factory RR Diff Lock switch that I also got from the donor truck. Instead of using the Double Pole Double Throw Lock Switch that he recommends what would happen if I used a Double Pole Double Throw relay in its place. The OEM switch would be hooked up to the normally open contacts so once I push the button “in” the normally open contacts would then send power to the motor. Then, after pushing the button in again (so it springs out) power would be sent through the normally closed contacts which would turn the gear until locker is disengaged simultaneously shutting itself off.

Question #3
Assuming the above scenario works...once the motor has turned the gear enough degrees it would in essence kill itself via the insulated areas on the gear, correct?

Question #4
If the splines do not engage right away is there a potential for heat build up in the motor causing damage?

Please let me know of any shortcomings with this wiring method or any additional recommendations.

Thank you in advance for any and all input!

black_taco

iTrader: (2)

No offense to all who frequent here but does anyone know of a different place to ask this question? eg different yota sites or electronics specific forums?

justin_4runner

yeah i don't see why u cant just use the switch that u picked up from the donor truck, as for it turning it off when it is all the way in yes it should turn off on its own, and if it doesn't first engage it will keep trying tell it does but it shouldn't build up that much heat or anything to burn it out.

black_taco

iTrader: (2)

I finally finished my ELocker install this weekend and the mentioned wiring method works great! Not only did I use the factory RR Diff Lock switch but I also utilized the factory RR Diff Lock light bulb on the dash. Granted it doesn't flash when it is attempting to engage/disengage but it does light up when engaged. If anyone wants info I plan on posting some and a modified Dick Foster diagram. In addition to this I will post up part numbers for the 18/7 wiring that I ordered from McMaster-Carr and the Radio Shack 12V DPDT Relay.

DD03SR5

hey this is exactly what im looking for just picked up an elocker axle and switch and i want to wire it up but dont really know where to start wondering if you can help me out !

black_taco

iTrader: (2)

Hey sorry for the delayed response. Have you figured out a slick way to wire your E-Locker up so it looks factory yet? If not let me know I can help you.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

12voltguy.com

:wabbit2:

black_taco

iTrader: (2)

I am under the impression that he wants to use the factory RR Diff Lock Switch. Before I did mine I contacted the 12voltguy and at that time he did not have a system that would allow for the use of the factory switch. Plus what would the fun of having someone else do it for you be especially if it turns out to be a good learning experience like it was for me. I am admittingly a bit of a snob when it comes to a clean install and most of the switches that are most commonly used for the E-Locker install are not as easy on the eyes as the OEM switch.

Phessor

I too would like a diagram showing how to use a factory switch. I am in the process of acquiring what I need to put an ELocker in my 89 HILUX.

black_taco

iTrader: (2)

I will throw something together for you guys. It will be nice to pay back to a great site.

black_taco

iTrader: (2)

I hope this diagram works for those that want to use it. I apologize my electrical schematic standards might not be up to par professionally but I think it is pretty much self explanatory. I want to thank Dick Foster for his schematic. I also want to thank Karl Bellve and Ken Flesher for their writeup. Both of these links helped me a lot when I was trying to figure this out.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/
http://www.norcalttora.com/~dick/Wri...ck_control.pdf

Required Components Include:

SWITCH, DIFFERENTIAL
TOYOTA PART #84725-35010 Quantity 1

12VDC/10A DPDT Relay
Radio Shack Model: 275-218 | Catalog #: 275-218 Quantity 1
Follow Radio Shack link below for an unmolested picture of the relay.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=2049722#

Flexible Multiconductor Cable Unshielded, 18/7 AWG, .34" OD, 600 VAC, Gray
McMaster-Carr Product #9936K21 Quantity 16ft
I only bought 12ft but if I were to do it again I would have bought more that way you have some left for the bulb.

Insulated Barrel Quick-Disconnect Terminal Std Female, 22-18 AWG, .187" W, .02" Thk Tab, 600V, packs of 10
McMaster-Carr Product #7060K18 Quantity 1

Easy-Install Convoluted Sleeving
McMaster-Carr Product #7840K12 Quantity 1

I also used a variety of heat-shrink tubing, solder flux and a lot of cable ties. All of these you can get at almost any auto parts store. I would highly recommend heat-shrink tubing after soldering to the factory wiring harness coming out of the differential.



For anyone wanting to know how a DPDT relay works Google is your friend.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/34007886@N03/7206149202/http://www.flickr.com/photos/34007886@N03/7206149202/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/34007886@N03/, on Flickr

DeathSycthe02

thanks for the write up, your info has helped me more than anything else ive read online. so does your switch light up when the locker is engaged or just when you push it? also im a little confused on whats going on here, all of those are suppost to be getting constant power?

black_taco

iTrader: (2)

I am glad to hear that, you are welcome.

The switch itself never lights up with my setup. I guess I didn't know that they light up. Do they light up from the factory? It is the factory RR DIFF LOCK light in the dash that lights up in the diagram above ("Lock Lamp" on diagram = factory bulb in dash). With that being said the light will only be on when diff is locked and attempting to unlock. If I really wanted to get crazy and duplicate the factory system I would have wired it up so that it flashes when attempting to engage, stay on constant when engaged and flash again when attempting to disengage. I guess I would have done with this some turn signal technology but please don’t put yourself through the trouble of this.

All of the red is coming off of a 12v+ source but it isn't constant (the key must be on for power). I tapped into my 4wd system fuse in the interior fuse panel with a Dorman Part# 85601. Advance Auto Parts sells them and I am sure anyone else that carries Dorman can get them. I have linked the Advanced Auto Parts link below. If you use one of these jumpers it is imperative that you insert it into the last leg that current flows though. Putting them on the other leg will provide un-fused power to your system which you don’t want.

*LINK BELOW WAS CHANGED/UPDATED 9-5-12*

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/buy...s-holders.html

DeathSycthe02

And what amp fuse did you use with the draw of the e locker along with the 4wd system sense you went threw the fuse box? would it be bad to run it with constant power with like an inline fuse, or ???

black_taco

iTrader: (2)

I used the factory amperage...15A fuse maybe? I would have to check to be certain. I tend to shy away from constant power I guess. One reason being if the button gets unknowingly pushed while vehicle is parked and not running and the locker motor is attempting to engage for a long amount of time I am guessing something is going to get cooked. I know that might be a far out there situation but there really isn't any reason for it to have constant power. Considering the locker almost always needs some amount of axle rotation to engage ie you will be driving at the time there really isn't any point. Sorry for the winded response I am getting tired and starting to ramble on.

DD03SR5

Now this is what im talking about i have been talking to 12v guy and he doesent want to use the factory switch. How has the wiring been working for you lately? im going to get some of the parts together and wire up a nice harness this fall and my winter project is to get this axle installed finally.

DD03SR5

the link for the jumpers that you used isnt working do you have a pic of one so i know what im looking for

black_taco

iTrader: (2)

Everything has been working just fine.

I edited the post that includes the link for the fuse taps. The taps are made by Dorman part# 85601 and are available at Advance Auto Parts. As you can see I wrapped tape around the fuse just to make sure the tap stayed parallel to the fuse at all times and it strengthens it a little bit. Not only for ease of install did I use a fuse tap but it also allows me to quickly and easily disable the E-Locker if I ever need to e.g. someone borrows my truck. I had visions of someone driving down the interstate in my truck wondering, "hey what does this button do? I think I will push it in to see..."

http://www.flickr.com/photos/34007886@N03/7940032682/http://www.flickr.com/photos/34007886@N03/7940032682/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/34007886@N03/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/34007886@N03/7940032788/http://www.flickr.com/photos/34007886@N03/7940032788/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/34007886@N03/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/34007886@N03/7940032838/http://www.flickr.com/photos/34007886@N03/7940032838/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/34007886@N03/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/34007886@N03/7940032906/http://www.flickr.com/photos/34007886@N03/7940032906/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/34007886@N03/, on Flickr

black_taco

iTrader: (2)

Can someone please tell me when the Button is supposed to light up if the truck came from the factory with an E-Locker. Is it whenever the dash lights are one? When it is depressed regardless of the status of unit?...i.e. 1.) attempting to lock, 2.) locked, and 3.) attempting to disengage or only when locked? Thanks.

DD03SR5

yeah that is a good idea maybe i will wire a single pole on off switch under the fuse panel to disable the locker