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dublin's 4runner with 33's w/o lift

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Old 06-06-2005, 10:48 PM
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dublin's 4runner with 33's w/o lift

dublin, would you mind explaining how you fit those 33x12.50s on there with no lift...im seriously mystified here b/c from the pics ive seen it doesnt seem to rub very much if any at all....but then again im just guestimating from looking at the pics...
Old 06-07-2005, 01:57 PM
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My 87 Hilux and 88 4runner (both with no lift) have fit 33X12.5 tires comfortably with just a little rubb when the tires were fully turned.

The hard part is getting the rims that will fit the tire for a decent price.

I used some old chevy 6 bolt rally rims and had to torch out the center to fit the larger hub. See link below for pics.
Old 06-07-2005, 01:59 PM
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Dhhhoooo I guess I should have looked at what year you have, disregard previous post (I have 1st gen)

we-tad-did
Old 06-07-2005, 02:12 PM
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I'm in the process of getting some 33x12.5's on my non-lifted 4Runner. I just ordered some steel wheels from http://www.4wheelparts.com with 3.75" backspacing. It should be fine if you get the right backspacing. Remember... the lower the number, the more the tire will stick out. On my 4Runner I took the lower valance off the front bumper which is one of the places that the bigger tires are prone to rubbing.
Old 06-07-2005, 02:26 PM
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seems like even if you fix most of the rubbin in the front, it'd hit the top part of the fender/body in the back when full flex. Mine comes really close when I have the back tire stuffed up there and that's with 31x10.5's and 15x8" 3.75" bs rims.
Old 06-07-2005, 03:37 PM
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True, I guess that just means don't aggressively wheel it until you get a lift.
Old 06-07-2005, 04:50 PM
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Wow a post about me, awww. Seriously though, yes it can be done but if your going to seriously wheel this can only be a temporary thing. Unless you like the sound of rubber on plastic. I cut the front valance about 2 1/2 inches at the bottom to 0. inches at the top. No rubbing in front. I then cut out the lower half of the bottom rear of the inner fender and where the weld flange is I flattened it out with an 8 lb. sledge hammer. i filled the opening cut out of the inner fender with Great stuff expanding foam let it dry trimmed it and covered it with rust proofing. If I take a steep incline at full turn it rubs, but for the most part it works fine. If you run 31's with these modifications you won't have any rubbing at all. Yah I do need a lift.
Old 06-07-2005, 06:34 PM
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Hahahah, I needed new tires, so, I got 4 Mickey Thompson Baja Radial Claws for $300. They only have about 4000 miles on em. I haven't put them on yet, but, I won't have a lift when I do! The lift comes after I sell my MOTORCYCLE!
Old 06-07-2005, 06:44 PM
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Don't think I could part with my bike but the snow mobile could get me a nice lift.
Old 06-07-2005, 07:20 PM
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Yeah, trust me... I don't want to sell my bike, but I'm putting a lot of the money towards a 3.4L swap, a lift and some small stuff... I'll buy a new bike later. I'll get a Gixxer 1000 next...
Old 06-12-2005, 10:04 PM
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what'd you use to cut the valence and rear fender? I'm thinking it'd be a bit too hard with my hacksaw
Old 06-12-2005, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SolidDigital
what'd you use to cut the valence and rear fender? I'm thinking it'd be a bit too hard with my hacksaw


I'm wondering the same thing, thinking about possible ditching it maby.
Old 06-12-2005, 11:08 PM
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I have new black steel wheels that already came on my Runner when i bought it.
Does anybody know how to figure out what back spacing i have?
Old 06-13-2005, 06:44 AM
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Your better off spending the 90 bucks on a body lift, I'm still shocked that you fit those under there with no lift. I have a '95 (which is for sale ) and I DID have the 1" body lift and I still had to trim the valence (used a dremel) and cut the weld on the fender wall (plasma cutter/torch).

My hat goes off to you!

Fink

Last edited by Fink; 06-13-2005 at 06:59 AM.
Old 06-13-2005, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by rocket
I have new black steel wheels that already came on my Runner when i bought it.
Does anybody know how to figure out what back spacing i have?
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but you can probably tell by using just a ruler. Take off your wheel, place the ruler end on the circle around the hub hole (on the inside of the wheel, in case you didn't know), hold it as straight as possible and look directly from the side of the wheel to see what mark the lip of the rim goes to. It makes sense... but I could be wrong.

And Daniel, here's a link to my thread just a couple days ago. I installed my 33's and haven't had ANY rubbing yet. Granted I don't have a front valance (and haven't had one for a while). 33's w/ no lift thread

Last edited by Keggo; 06-13-2005 at 06:53 AM.
Old 06-13-2005, 07:00 AM
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Keggo's right about measuring your backspacing, just measure from the hub to the inside rim.

Fink
Old 06-13-2005, 09:38 AM
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Fink... it hurts me that you're betraying your 2nd gen brethren... *sigh* hahaha j/k. I'm kind of modeling my truck after yours. Have fun with your 3rd gen, maybe I'll be there someday too! hahahah
Old 06-13-2005, 09:43 AM
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Well thank you, its cool to have somebody modelin their rig after yours. If you have any questions or anything lemme know.

I gotta say man, I really miss my 2nd gen, I've still got it but its parked for now...I may end up keeping it though, depending on how the search for a buyer goes.

Later,

Fink
Old 06-13-2005, 02:09 PM
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SolidDigital and Viperdan, I used a sawzall on mine but you could use a hacksaw or tin snips on the valance (it's only plastic). A sheet metal air nibbler works great on the rear weld bead. Of course you could be more creative and use a torch, grinder, chisel, hand saw or just rip off the fenders. Just kidding.
Old 06-13-2005, 02:10 PM
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Yeah dude... I love your rig. I really want to get an ARB Bull Bar and roof rack. strap22 has a good deal on a 3"-4" OME setup... I'll probably go that route.


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