metal22lica

ok guys...my boot blew a while ago and it had to be before the Aisin hub conversion. i am looking to replace it and the axle shaft. I have a Haynesl, and found in another thread a write up..but i was wondering a few things. will i be able to get the axle shaft from a toyota dealership and the boots too. also do you need the big 54 mm (2 1/8 inch) socket..i have read post where you dont..and post where you do. also...do you need to take of the whole Aisin hub or just the bolt connecting them? Any other advice or tools that i need to take off the shaft and bolts or to replace the grease? Thanks Guys!!!


Write ups:
One

Two

metal22lica

anyone?

PY

I repacked the drivers side axle & replaced the boots 2 weeks ago. The whole hub has to come off to remove the clip at the end of the axle, the large nut for the wheel bearing does not get touched. The hardest part for me was loosening the bolts on the diff side. Make sure you have room for a pipe or other leverage extension under the truck, those bolts are tight.

Oh yeah - take the diff side bolts out first, then the hub and axle clip. That way you can lock the axle using the hub while removing the bolts. Of course, you'll need to put 'er in 4wd first.

Hope this helps!

keisur

Not real sure about the removal since I ain't done it yet but why not order some of these Mecatech boots from Mike at Xtreme? I think they may be better than the oem's.

http://www.xtremeoff-road.com/catalo...atech_main.htm

Victor

You will need the big socket. I knocked a stud on the inner mount out and went to a bolt place and bought the same size bolts. That gives you about an inch more clearance. Undo your manual hubs and all the stuff inside (a ring behind the big bolt) and then undo the inner mount (now remove all of your studs). Jack up under the a-arm and guide the whole half shaft out. Comes out fairly easy although you'll probably have to play with the jack angle to get it right. The less torsion bar crank you have the easier it should be. I have 14.75" and was done in about an hour.

metal22lica

hmm...so do i need the 54mm socket or not...one said yes..one said no. other than that..this sounds like a pretty easy job to do. also where should i look into buy the axle from? i called the dealer and they said 158 for the axle and 35 for the boots. thanks guys...

Victor

Autozone has rebuilt half shafts for $65 with a lifetime warranty. Boots come installed so no greasy mess. You WILL need the 54mm socket to get the bolt off that is under your manual hubs. I got mine at Sears along with a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter.

metal22lica

will i need any gaskets?

Victor

You should replace the gaskets for the manual hubs. I had an extra set so I used them. Cheap insurance to make sure water doesn't get in where it shouldn't.

jimrockford

Not to confuse things, but...

You shouldn't need the 54mm socket to remove the axle. The axle passes through the steering spindle. The 54mm nuts thread over the top of the spindle. If you can release the axle from the differential, you should be able to pull the axle out of the steering spindle from the rear without disturbing the nuts. The only things you'll have to worry about removing are the manual hubs and a retainer clip on the axle itself.

The 54mm nuts need to be removed to get at the wheel bearings and to remove the brake rotor.

A picture might help:



If I'm off base, please let me know.

BTW, the photo came from my steering spindle bushing write up. There are a bunch more pictures there that might help you visualize what you'll be dealing with (although it doesn't go into removing or replacing the axle).

mick cassidy

i need a little help with my 1991 differential im going to be putting in a eaton tru track
limited slip unit does any one know fo you need a slide hammer to pull out the axle bearings behind the brakes . ??? on the end of the axle .. thanks