YotaTruck1986

Has anyone heard of this Design Engineering Inc., CryO2 Intake Cooling System? Is uses CO2 to cool your intake charge. SummitRacing claims it can cool the intake charge up to 60%. It seems like it would be a simple install, but is it worth it? $550 total for the base system and intake charge cooler. Where could you refill your tank with CO2? Thanks.

GRNTACO

I thought DEI was Dale Earnhart Inc. http://www.daleearnhardtinc.com/content/home.aspx

GRNTACO

Most welding supply stores fill tanks or you can just exchange it for a full one.

YotaTruck1986

Do you think it's worth it? I could understand the need for it with a forced induction intake, but naturally aspirated - I'm not sure.

89macrunner

hmm thats a cool system for $550 and the reasonable pricing of co2 compared to nitrus seems reasonable....it would need some tuning to the ecu because it will probably confuse the MAF sensor with such cool temps..would be amazing on a turbo using as it as an intercooler sprayer with direct nitrus injection

GRNTACO

I would imagine for big horse power motors it may help on a hot muggy day if you were running 1/4 mile passes.

YotaTruck1986

Any other opinions?

4x4Lamm

I have seen the system in action at the Summit truck fest (I live about 20 min. from the Ohio store). Save your cash. it works good, cools the intake air a lot, for about 5 min. at WOT. It is not nearly as effective as nitrous. The system is intended for pro-class drag racers that wan't to shave off a tenth of a second. It would be a waste for any toyota truck.

Lamm

mike_d

honestly, it sounds like a waste of money to me. how long in a co2 tank going to last? you're going to have to release the co2 pretty fast to get enough cooling to cool the amount of air you're sucking in the intake. then you have to store the tank and that's added weight. i wouldn't buy it.

YotaTruck1986

Nitrous really isn't an option with my truck as I doubt it could handle any amount of shot to provide a substantial power increase. This is the only option I can think of to upgrade my intake performance as I wont be switching to F/I or nitrous. Does the MAF detect the density of the air, and then inject the correct amount of fuel? Thanks.

YotaTruck1986

(don't pay any attention to this post.)

mike_d

the problem with nitrous isn't that it's nitrous, but that you're putting more stress on the 20 year old engine. the stress comes from the power increase. so to a first approximation anything you do that gives you a boost (nitrous, cold co2, f/i, etc) will put stress on the engine that is proportional to the power increase. so if you can't get a substantial power increase with nitrous without ruining your engine, you won't be able to get a substantial power increase with anything else.

if you have the flap type MAF like i do, then i know for sure that it detects the correct density and everything. i bet the hot wire kind does too.

the idea beind the flap type is that as each molecule of air comes in it bounces off the flap and pushes it back a little. the more air you have coming in the farther back the flap gets pushed. so if you have a higer flow or higher density the flap responds the same.

the hot wire kind also works similar, it tries to keep a wire at a constant temperature. each molecule of air that hits the wire will take a bit of heat with it, the more air the more cooling and then the computer needs to work harder to keep the temperature the same. this way i knows the amount of air that comes in. the trouble (in my opinion) with the hot wire type is that you also need a separate measure of air temperature too because cold air will cool the hot wire more than hot air so the readings will change depending on temperature even if the exact same amount of air comes in.

YotaTruck1986

Yes, mine has the flap type MAF. I'm not really sure what to do then for substantial power increases on my 22RE. I know I should get some new headers (LCE), and a high flow cat to open up my exhaust. I've considered a more aggressive cam, but I've heard the install can be pricy. Intake mods are usually quite easy, but I'm afraid the 20 year old engine might not be able to handle nitrous, CO2, etc. It only has 89k miles on it, but it's still a 20 year old motor. If you've got any ideas or recommendations, I'd appreciate the help. Thanks.

jimbo74

i say to a complete rebuild and use LCE parts then run some nitrous and co2

gwhayduke

Screw the CO2.
Screw the N2O.

Go with liquid O2!

YotaTruck1986

liquid O2 = Boom

gwhayduke

Ssshhhh! Don't tell 'em! Someone will try it, take pics and their surviving buddies will post them.

mikedog

I don't see how the motor's age has any bearing to how strong it is. You have relatively low miles for a R-series motor. Doing a compression/leak-down test will tell you more about the internal condition of the motor than the chronological age.

It seems to me that you should be concentrating your efforts on improving the exhaust side of the motor before you start thinking about the intake side. Headers, cat, muffler and a larger 2.25" exhaust should the first thing on the agenda. Then, and only then should you turn your efforts into improving the intake side of the motor.

The headers/exhaust alone will give you a more noticeable increase in performance than anything you can think of doing on the intake side. A DIY cold-air-intake to outside air will give you more benefit than that CO2 injection scheme you're thinking about.

I have a Thorley tri-Y header, high-flow cat, Dynomax "super turbo" muffler and a 2.25" exhaust on my 22r. That made a BIG noticeable difference in performance on my truck. The only problem is, as with anything, you get used to the increased performance. The truck won't feel as fast as it once did after you get used to the mods. That's what keeps aftermarket speed shops in business I guess.

You might want to see if the motor is healthy enough for a small shot of nitrous. I don't think you can "safely" run more than a 25-shot on a relatively stock R-series motor. However, 25hp is 25hp. That's a pretty big jump on a 116hp 22RE. You may need to do some "fuel mods" to support a 25hp nitrous shot though.

YotaTruck1986

As in a stronger fuel pump? Do you think a wet system would work best?

mikedog

Yeah, something like a Walbro fuel pump. Fuel filter, fuel pump, pressure regulator and the injectors have to be in top notch condition.

You don't want to ever lean out when you're spraying. Leaning out while spraying equals hole in piston.

With EFI, you'd probably want a dry kit.