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So I have read that a lot of 3rd Generation 4Runner owners have has the problem with the dead rear door. Wiper, defroster, washer, and up/down controls on the dash did not work and my keyless entry was dead. Also my rear cargo light slowly quit working. I have searched and searched and have not seen anyone who actually ever fixed the problem. Tonight after purchasing a new rear window relay assembly at $380, I can finally say that I have solved the problem, and am now stuck with a part I do not need. I hope this will help someone else as it is not an easy something to track down. Read on to see the solution. If anyone would like pics, PM me your email address and I will send you the pictures. If anyone needs a rear window relay, I have a brand new one for sale!
FIXED IT!!!
So I break down and order the rear door window relay or rear door ECU as some call it. It arrives today so I race home to finally fix the problem. Take the door apart, install the relay...NOTHING! Actually it made it WORSE! Now the rear window will not roll down with the keyless entry remote...so I'm pretty ticked....this part was almost $400 and the invoice says NO RETURNS ON ELECTRICAL PARTS.
So I start thinking maybe the new part needs to be initialized or programmed to work with my remote, but it still didn't fix the rear wiper/defroster issue. I come in the house and start searching online for an answer and find nothing. I decide to start searching... I pull the rubber cover off the wire loom where it comes out of the top of the hatch opening and I can't believe my eyes. There is one wire completely cut in half, and two others have the insulation sliced but no damage to the copper. I touch the broken wire together and the rear cargo light comes on. Punch the remote and the door lock. SO PROBLEM SOLVED! I reconnected the wire, protected the others, and all works again in 4Runner land. One problem...I am now stuck with a $400 part which may not be returnable. Ugh!
ANYWAY I HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE!
Last edited by nieuwendyk-25; 06-11-2016 at 09:14 PM.
Awesome! I've seen this a few places and it's on my list of things to look at (dead light when on 'door' and non-working rear defrost). Nice to see this post, good luck on that unbelievably expensive part!
I had one broken completely and two with the insulation sliced. What is funny is it was very intermittent and started with the light acting up...I would not have even noticed it for a while if the keyless entry had not stopped working.
I'm gonna email toyota-parts.com tomorrow and see if they will let me return it. Glad to see this helped someone!
Great info, I'll have to check into that. My keyless entry hasn't worked for the rear hatch since I bought my 4Runner 5 years ago. I tried taking it apart and fixing but wasn't sure where to start buying replacement parts and had gotten used ot it pretty much so I just quit messing with it. Thanks to you, it may be a simple fix. Way to go!
This is one of the most helpful threads I have ever come across. My key fobs quit working, could not control tailgate window from dash switch. But could put tailgate window down with fob.
Took rubber boot covering off tailgate wiring loom and found two wires severed. Unbelievable! Spliced them back together and all is good, everything works now.
Thanks for this thread! I found a broken black wire when I checked the wiring in the rubber loom, but I'm not sure what it was for. I was attempted in the fix the issue with the hatch light not coming on when opening the tailgate but later learned the problem was in the latch itself. I couldn't get to the wiring in the latch because the assembly is riveted together. Replacing the latch just to fix the light is too expensive for now.
That broken wire should be pretty easy to fix. You may need to add a short length of wire to the whole affair to have room to do the soldering required. No big deal. Strip back the ends, tin them, put some heatshrink long enough to cover both ends, and solder them together. Slide the heatshrink over the whole thing, shrink it down tight, and away you go.
It would take me about 10 minutes, but I've been a radar Tech all my life, and got some really good soldering schools in the Corps. I have a complete kit. Iron, solder, flux, alcohol dispenser, the whole nine yards. Including all different sizes of heat shrink, both melt-wall, and regular. It'd probably take me longer to get set up than to do the repair, heh
I would definitely get that wire fixed ASAP, and check the others for damaged insulation. If it were me, which it's not
About 1 year ago hatch lock stopped working so replaced the motor and nothing fast forward 2 years uncovered the hatch boot and saw stripped /cracked and a broken wire same color as the lock motor had soldered it back up and wrapped with electrical tape now it works as should thanks op Looks like someone has been here first hence the black tape
If it were me, I'd clip the wires with the broken insulation, slide a piece of heatshrink on each one, and solder them back together. Then, slip the heatshrink over the solder joins, and shrink it down. It will protect a lot better than electrical tape could ever hope to. It'll help keep them from flexing and breaking again.
05-26-2011, 09:16 PM
and got some really good soldering schools in the Corps. I have a complete kit. Iron, solder, flux, alcohol dispenser, the whole nine yards. Including all different sizes of heat shrink, both melt-wall, and regular. It'd probably take me longer to get set up than to do the repair, heh 
