CV boot replacement on 2nd gen...help
#22
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Location: Nashville, TN
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well we finally got everything worked out. the bearings and the housing for the cv joint are soaking right now and we're gonna put it back together in the morning. we finally worked that god#$@* gold cap off of the hub cover and it was fine from there. i appreciate everyone who threw in their advice. thanks, nate
#23
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I.m in the middle of the same "f..Project" .
Put new rotors and pads and I've got a torn boot also. I just can't loosen
the bolts on the diff. HOWEVER.....
1-Remove dust cap (gold thingy on the hub)
2-Remove gold bolt and washer
3-Remove 6 bolts and lockwashers
4-Using a sharp chisel,CAREFULLY, tap on the seam of the hub. The cone
washers will pop all over the shop if you're not careful. Hold your chest close
to the axle. They don't hurt.
5-Remove hub plate
6-Wipe off any grease on the splines and there you'll see a snap ring.
7-remove snap ring and ONE spacer behind it.
8-If you push on the splines, now you should be able to push the shaft in about 3/4in (woops metric....20mm)
9-Have a beer
10-Thank God is a long weekend.
:pat:
11-Have another beer
12-Do the other side.
Put new rotors and pads and I've got a torn boot also. I just can't loosen
the bolts on the diff. HOWEVER.....
1-Remove dust cap (gold thingy on the hub)
2-Remove gold bolt and washer
3-Remove 6 bolts and lockwashers
4-Using a sharp chisel,CAREFULLY, tap on the seam of the hub. The cone
washers will pop all over the shop if you're not careful. Hold your chest close
to the axle. They don't hurt.
5-Remove hub plate
6-Wipe off any grease on the splines and there you'll see a snap ring.
7-remove snap ring and ONE spacer behind it.
8-If you push on the splines, now you should be able to push the shaft in about 3/4in (woops metric....20mm)
9-Have a beer
10-Thank God is a long weekend.
:pat:
11-Have another beer
12-Do the other side.
#24
I just did this a couple weeks ago and I think I've got it down to a science.
1. Remove the hub/ADD flange, the bolt in the end of the axle, and the C-clip
2. Remove upper bumpstop and disconnect the sway bar and shock.
3. Loosen the 6 nuts holding the CV axle to the diff side of the axle.
4. POUND OUT AT LEAST 2 OF THE STUDS. --The single most important step.
5. Jack up the truck so that the suspension extends all the way.
6. CV axle should slide right out.
I took off the tire, but next time, I don't think I'll even have to do that.
1. Remove the hub/ADD flange, the bolt in the end of the axle, and the C-clip
2. Remove upper bumpstop and disconnect the sway bar and shock.
3. Loosen the 6 nuts holding the CV axle to the diff side of the axle.
4. POUND OUT AT LEAST 2 OF THE STUDS. --The single most important step.
5. Jack up the truck so that the suspension extends all the way.
6. CV axle should slide right out.
I took off the tire, but next time, I don't think I'll even have to do that.
I cant find the cv axle howto in the howto section (2nd gen) btw but im really dumb so that might explain it. My baby is a 1990 4R
Last edited by Katoner; 02-19-2017 at 03:25 PM.
#25
Just did this a few weeks ago, did not pound out studs but instead removed sway bar link...make sure you note the amount of threads showing to keep sway bar adjustment the same. I also used the method of jacking up the hub to compress the suspension and as a result did not have to pound out the studs. Easy job either way, good luck.
#26
Registered User
That's a good method. I'm not sure about pounding the studs out. I have removed a couple using that method and others but not removing the studs. You need to be careful beating on that flange. There is a bearing and seal back there you don't want to damage. If you can press out the studs without pounding on the flange that'd be ok. If you do take out a couple studs, replace them with high strength bolts so you don't have to press them out again.
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