idealconcepts

Ok,
I did a search on this topic so I have some information on this topic but would like to get some feed back from you guys. Looking at my truck last night, trying to determine if I should do the 4Crawler BJ spacers which I was starting to lean on the side of doing it and the diff drop to prevent and, I found a tear, only about an inch or 2, in my passenger side CV boot. I believe there is an inner and an outer (noob here so correct me if I am wrong), I tore the inner one. Truck is stock and since I have had it for the past year, bought it from the first owner who only used 4WD when they went up to the snow. There was a little grease under the tear so I assume the tear is fairly recent and about 99% confident minimal dirt or other materials got into it. I have not noticed any clicking yet so I assume CV joint is still in good shape. I have only engage 4WD once, about 10 months ago, to see if it work and only went about 30 feet or so, I don’t do any off roading, well not yet anyway. I’m thinking of just replacing the boot with the oem boot kit, since the boot looks like it just tore recently and shouldn’t have any foreign particles in it and the minimal off roading I do. Truck is an 89, 4WD, V6, 5SPD, regular cab, long bed, stock manual locking hubs, and I’m having the dealer perform the relay rod recall tomorrow morning, so I going to get a quote today on the cost of the boot kit (which I read is around $30-$40) and labor to install. So what are you thoughts on just replacing the CV boot with oem???? Thanks in advance for your comments.

gthorne

I just recently replaced the boots on my '94 4Runner. I used the OEM Toyota boots. They are good quality boots. There's several tech write-ups on here that talk about replacing them yourself. Its pretty straight forward and you'll save yourself $100-150.

Tofer

if you have the manual locking hubs, it makes me want to believe that the tare is old. usually it only tares when it is spinning and therefore will only spin when the hubs are locked. at any rate, i am not sure on an 89 but i assume its still holds true, to do the boot kit you ahve to take the cv out, so its easier and faster to replace the whole thing since you are already dirty and greasy from the removal. as for the dealer to do it, it would depend on the price, you can pick up a new CV at autozone for 70 bucks plus tax. and wiht standard tools, (10mm, 12, 14, 17, 19, floor jack) have them swapped out in under an hr the first time (now that i have done it 6 times its about 30 mins) again let me know if you need any help, i have a quick write up on changing CVs i can send you. i say get the BJ spacers, diff drop and a new axle and have a fun weekened of wrenching

tc

I agree with ToferUOP. My outer was torn bad, and I got a new halfshaft with a lifetime warranty from Autozone for 69.99. I am handy with tools, but by no means a mechanic, and thought it was pretty easy.

I would replace the halfshaft - what if you DID get something in through the tear and the CV joint goes later? Then you're stuck replacing the joint AND out the money for the boot...

idealconcepts

If I decide to replace the joint with one from autozone, does it come with boots? Is there a core charge? If I engage it into 4WD will there be a difference in performance since one is the oem and the other is aftermarket? If you guys have a write up or the link handy please post it here or e-mail it to idealconcepts@hotmail.com I want to look it over before I decide what to do. Thanks guys.

tc

Do a search - I posted a review of what all I did and there are others too.

Intrepid

I replaced a boot, I will never do it again, it was a real PITA. I will just buy a cheap Autozone one with a lifetime warrantee and if it rips again, I will turn in the whole thing for a new one. Changing a CV is pretty easy, changing a boot is a PITA!

idealconcepts

What tools will I need to change the CV joint? I want to get a quick idea of what tools I need to buy or find if I have, limited on my tool collection. I have a jack but it is for cars so I will look into buying the package deal thing where you get a jack for a truck/SUV and jack stands. I will do a search on the write ups.

Intrepid

It really depends on what truck you have.
Basics:

-metric socket set (possibly may need a 36mm or 54mm depending)
-brass drift (makes it easier to knock out cone washers without damaging anything, depends on vehicle)
-Floor jack/jack stand
-Pry bar
-hammer
-snap ring pliers or some improvised means of removing them.
-a breaker bar may be convenient
-threadlocker (if you remove the 4 bolts around the ball joint)
-flathead screwdriver

Here is a write up for a third gen runner/tacoma:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/

Since I assume yours is older than this, you may want to get a chiltons or haynes manual.

idealconcepts

Ok couple questions on the tool list.

-metric socket set (possibly may need a 36mm or 54mm depending)
Got this might need to buy the 36 and 54

-brass drift (makes it easier to knock out cone washers without damaging anything, depends on vehicle)
What is this not familar with this?

-Floor jack/jack stand
will buy these for truck, the one i have is floor jack for a car and might not be tall enough

-Pry bar
Description? (small crow bar???)

-hammer
got one

-snap ring pliers or some improvised means of removing them.
Description?

-a breaker bar may be convenient
Description?

-threadlocker (if you remove the 4 bolts around the ball joint)
After I order and get the spacers from 4Crawler. Have some loctite.

-flathead screwdriver
Whats that? Just Kidding, I think I have 3 or 4 in various sizes.

Also can this be a one man job?

runethechamp

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but since we're talking CV joints.... I did this and it's no problem to do it alone. My question is: are you supposed to notice any side-to-side play of the outer CV joint within the steering knuckle after the manual hub/ADD flange is removed. I had some, but didn't expect it. Is this a potential problem with the races in the steering knuckle as I have seen mentioned in other posts?

Intrepid

The 36 or 54mm socket is for the hub nut, depends on your vehicle. you won't have one if you have manual hubs.



Brass drifts, basically brass rods, since brass is softer than your hammer and whatever you are hitting, it won't hurt whatever you are hammering on, it won't spark either, but that doesn't matter in this application.

Pry Bar=crow bar
Something to pry the inner end of the CV out of the diff.

Snap Ring Pliers

There is a ring that is shaped like the letter "C" you need pliers to spread it open enough to slider is down the axle.

Breaker Bar, convenient for removing tough bolts, basically a longer handle that you can put a socket on the end of. You could also slide a pipe over the handle of your wrench and it does the same thing. The idea is to get leverage.


It can definitely be a one man job, if you have some directions to follow it can be a one man one hour job.

Tofer

here's a VERY quick write up i did from memory for someone else who was having problems changing their CVs out. i am going to replace mine again soon, so i will have a real write up with pics.
http://www1.pacific.edu/~c-eaklan/4r...riteups/cv.doc

idealconcepts

Thanks Interpid, really appreciate the info. The only things I might need to buy are the brass drifts, floor jack and stands, maybe a crowbar (what size do you recommed for this project???), and maybe a breaker bar. I will assume this will take me 2 hours, usually double the time on on my first try since I have limited experience with the truck.

runethechamp

What took me the longest is described by one sentende in the FSM:

REMOVE FRONT DRIVE SHAFT
First pull the front drive shaft inboard joint tulip from the
side gear shaft, and then pull it out from the steering
knuckle.
There's lots of advice here on how to do this. I ended up punching out the bolts in the side gear shaft (the brass drift is handy here).

idealconcepts

Forgot one last question. Driving it, on the free way and surface streets, with a tear in the boot should be fine correct? I might try to this repair this weekend or over thanksgiving. It should still be ok if I wait a few weeks or so?

Robinhood150

No 54mm socket is needed for the older ifs for doing the CVs. Changing the CVs from a tacoma or 3rd gen is completely different from our trucks.

You don't need a brass drift for anything, although it's probably nice to have.

If you've never done a CV before, expect this job to take half a day to 1 full day. Everything takes longer than you'd expect.

As you've probably found in your search, there are a couple posts with good instructions on how to do it. One of my posts has cool little diagrams. Those posts have some tricks to make it easier.

Keep your manual hubs set to "free", put some duct tape over the hole and you should be fine for a couple weeks.

idealconcepts

I haven't ordered the ball joint spacers yet, but it sounds like the r/r of the CV is slightly more difficult than installing ball joint spacers. Is this assumption correct?

idealconcepts

I called the dealer just to see what they would charge and actually do. They stated they take the axle out clean it, repack it, re grease it and just replace the boot. Only time they replace the axle is if it is knocking when driven or if the can visually see problems with it when they remove and clean it. I don't plan on having the dealer do this but is this an option I can do, just clean and regrease the cv/axle and replace the boot, if the axle looks good and since I don't hear any knocking or clicking. Any thoughts on this. I know you guys suggest just replace the whole thing but if the cv looks good and it hasn't been used very often, why replace it. Just a thought.

runethechamp

FWIW, that's what I did. I had a completely torn inner CV boot for probably 5 or 6 months before I fixed it. I didn't drive on any wet roads though.