FogRunner

Crywolf sent me a email asking about the CS-144 150 alternator I installed. So I figured I would write a quick post and answer his questions and give the info for anyone else curious about installing a GM 150 amp alternator.

First off the alternator I used is for allot of GM vehicles but the one I found first in the computer is for a 1995 Cadillac Fleetwood. Its a 140-150 amp alternator and you can get them rebuilt for $130 or new for $160 from Oreilly or Autozone.

There are only three things to adapt or modify to install one.

1.Belt - the stock belt is a bit too long, get one that is 1-2" shorter
2.Spacing - the upper bracket is a half inch shorter so you need a couple of washers.
3.The Plug - the plug is a different style from the stock Denso plug.

On the plug you have two choices you can cut off the stock plug and put on GM style or you can strip the wires back some and piggy back the GM plug so you can swap the old Denso back as a spare.







The stock alternator light function on the dashboard will be retained as will the sense wire to preventing voltage drop in the electrical system.

The biggest gain is stock output, the OEM denso will only give you around 40 amps idle. The GM alt will give you around 90-100 amps idle, and full output around 1500rpm.

IF you do allot of winching install a "high idle" switch so you can just flip a switch and get the full 150 amps so you don't have to hold the gas pedal or if winching from outside.


EDIT ... One thing I forgot to add was about the lower mount for the alternator (the long curved bar where the adjustment bolt sides on). This mount/bar is a bit too high and you can't get the alternator to line up. All you have to do is loosen the bolt on that holds the lower mount to the engine and you can move it up or down. Once you mount the alternator then you can tighten its bolt back up to the engine block.


FOG

psraff

Thank you! I've looked at this option several times because of my lights and electric fan. I've got this bookmarked and is on my list of todos.

Crywolf

Bookmarked and next on the list! Thanks again

FogRunner

I'm also in the process of writing up a how-to on installing the "HIGH IDLE" switch I referenced above.

With the engine at the high idle (1400-1500 RPM) you will get full 150amp output from the alternator. The high idle rpm also makes the stock fan move ALLOT more air so the engine runs much cooler and it greatly increases the A/C effectiveness when you have to sit somewhere in hot weather.


FOG

GorillaSalad

On the list and bookmarked!

profuse007

thanks dude.

Kerby J

so did u have to get a different drive belt for that alternator of did the stock one work?

psraff

In his first posting...
"1.Belt - the stock belt is a bit too long, get one that is 1-2" shorter"

LarsDennert

Very cool. I wonder if the Tundra 130A (V8) unit would swap right in with no mods. Stock is 80A I think and they look the same.

Yukon

Very interested in this, so I'm bumping the thread

I'll probably end up getting the bigger alt whenever I decide to upgrade my stock wiring (big 3). Or when I have too many lights for the stock alt to handle

FogRunner

I have been meaning to do a writeup with pics on this, but have been really busy with research projects, lab exams, and written exams. BTW if your ever thinking about becoming a biology major, invest in nose plugs because of all the formaldehyde.

But here is the high idle switch in a nutshell. Basically your putting resistance inline with the temperature sensor that feeds the PCM (NOT THE DASH GAUGE).

As you increase the resistance in line with the temp sensor the PCM thinks the engine is colder and brings up the RPM. The trick is to add enough resistance to bring the RPM up to around 1300-1400. Any more than this and you will make the computer think the engine is below 130F and will drop out of closed loop and run rich,

The easiest way to install a high idle is to cut one leg of the wire that hooks the sender to the PCM. Then put a switch in the middle of the wire that will either insert or bypass the resistor. I used a 10K ohm resistor but you can also use a 10K ohm variable resistor so you can adjust the idle.


I'll try to get a diagram and pictures up in the next week.

FOG

paynemw

subscribed!

eddieleephd

A 10k potentiometer is what you are pointing to by 10k variable resistor and the switch that would need to be used would a variety of "2" one manual and one 5 pin relay...

the manual actuates the relay to send the current through the resistor or potentiometer, "the benefit to a potentiometer is that you can adjust to get slightly higher or lower RPM variances!!

and example to relays and uses
http://tldp.org/HOWTO/Home-Electrica...rol/relay.html

link to a 5pin relay socket
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=330-075


so now look at the first link the fourth grey section as you can see here the 5 pin relay will be in one position in the off position and in another in the on position... basically you want to wire the relay so in the off position the circuit is direct back to the other end of the wire and in the on position it goes through the resistor or potentiometer to the same wire...

eddieleephd

basic diagram

djmedik91

I couldn't get the CS-144 to fit in place of the OEM alternator. I know I picked up the right configuration (12-6 position), but the thing just did not want to get in there. Almost like it was too big and there wasn't enough room to move the alternator into position.

Anyone know what I'm talking about or have any advice? I have the 3.4L 4Runner. Thanks!

eddieleephd

If I remember reading an earlier post correctly the write up said to loosen the bolts to the lower mounting bracket to allow it to move and then install... you may want to reread this at least the first 4-5

eddieleephd

it was the write up at the bottom

EDIT ... One thing I forgot to add was about the lower mount for the alternator (the long curved bar where the adjustment bolt sides on). This mount/bar is a bit too high and you can't get the alternator to line up. All you have to do is loosen the bolt on that holds the lower mount to the engine and you can move it up or down. Once you mount the alternator then you can tighten its bolt back up to the engine block.

djmedik91

Yeah it just seemed like the alternator was too large in order to manipulate it enough to get it lined up and in there. I got extremely close when I first tried this, but it was in at an angle and haven't tried since.

I'll give it another shot here in the next week and hopefully I'll have success by loosening the lower mount. I didn't even think of loosening that mount as I figured it was welded. Thanks again!

FogRunner

Without loosening the lower mount and pushing it down you cannot get the CS-144 to fit. Once you get it in, bolt the top mount the pull the bottom mount up and bolt it in and re-tighten the bold that holds the mount to the engine block.


FOG

djmedik91

Thanks for the info Fog. I wish I would have known this 2 weeks ago when I spent 45 minutes trying to figure out a way to maneuver it in there.

Got another question for you all. The CS-144 I bought was shipped to me with a crack on the housing. Do you think this would affect the performance at all? I tried to have it tested at AutoZone today, but their diagnostic machine was down (either that, or the guy just didn't want to do it). Is there any way to fix it (i.e JB Weld)?

I'd hate to install this thing and have it kick the bucket 30 miles from my house. Thanks again!