CrazyDiamond

Just trying to figure out a way to simplify the cold start injector system to a manual on/off style 'old-school' electric choke. i.e. I flip a switch, and it opens when cranking...turn the switch off if it's warm outside, and the CSI never opens. Mainly need to know if I can apply 12 volts to the injector to open it, and how long it can stay open without damaging it. Suggestions appreciated.

Thanks guys.

nunsa

I'm just curious of why you would want to do something like that? The CSI & CSTS are controlled by the ecu and differeent input sensors, it knows when to kickoff kick on...! Take care!

CrazyDiamond

I needed a manifold port for installation of a mechanical water temp gauge. I had 3 ports to choose from: 1. Stock gauge sender 2. Engine Coolant Temp sender (to ECU) 3. Cold start injector time switch.

I wanted to keep the stock gauge, so it didn't just look broken. I obviously needed my ECT sender (even though I've modded it a bit with fantastic results). Thus, I figured that I could easily convert my CSI to a manual style. The siwtch (as far as I know) works like this:

If the engine coolant is cold enough, the switch is closed, and lets current go to the CSI. The catch is that the current that flows through the time switch heats the bimetal contacts (like a thermostat in your house) and causes the circuit to break. This is how it controls only allowing the CSI to operate for about 1 second of cranking time. Oh, and of course, the current only flows while cranking.

What I wanted to do was remove the sender entirely, and replace it with a push button that I can press if I desire while turning the key to crank. I just wasn't sure about the resistance in the circuit or the voltage to the CSI. I've already removed the CSITS and put in its place a toggle switch and a resistor with ohms equivalent to the old CSITS, and so can't get an accurate OEM voltage reading at the injector. I hoped that someone had the specs around.

Suggestions welcome, as usual. Thanks!

CrazyDiamond

By the way, I would have left the old sender in and used a T-fitting for my new gauge, but it's impossible to find a metric M19x1.5mm brass T-fitting

kyle_22r

why not just tap the manifold for another sensor?

CrazyDiamond

Because that would require pulling the manifold to be sure that no metal shavings got into the water jacket...not a terrible job, but more than I'd like to do.

If I can find the specs for the CSI (voltage and normal open time), I think I may wire a momentary push-button switch with a relay off a "hot while cranking" lead and just make it a simple button that I press if I want extra fuel squirted while cranking. Nice, simple, 30 minute job. Just like an old electric choke...I control whether I want it on or not.

CrazyDiamond

Sharp truck, BTW, kyle

TacomaTRD

Why can't you get a SAE "T" and get some metric to SAE adapters?

Try contacinig these guys, maybe they can help...

http://www.hoseandfittings.com/catal...1692.1751.1762

I found this metric to SAE adapter, not the size you are looknig for but they maybe able to help...

http://www.connect96.org/a/au/Auto-M...e-Adapter.html

MTL_4runner

I would make a T connector myself or have one made before attempting the old school method.
You could try disconnecting it completely and see how well it starts and decide from there.

kyle_22r

thanks! it's sittting in the driveway with no engine or tranny right now

CrazyDiamond

MTL --> by the time I find 3 metric to SAE adapters and a suitable T and screw them all together, I'm going to have a fitting that is too large to fit in the tiny space that the original sender fit into. I doubt I would be able to fit the senders and all that hardware there.

On another note I read some schematics and got the electric choke to work!! I found out that the CSI normally opens for between 2-12 seconds depending on temp. So, I just put a small push-button momentary switch in the cab, hooked to 12V that is hot only when ignition in ON position, ran to a relay, and wired 12V through relay to CSI directly. This allows you, with a simple push, to spray fuel into the intake whenever you need it. IT WORKS PERFECTLY! In fact, it starts quicker when cold now than it did when I had the OEM hookup! I found that if you push the push for about 1 second before cranking, let the vapors fill the runners for about 3 seconds, and THEN crank while holding the button for another 2-3 seconds, the engine starts in literally less than 1 second! It's really nice so far.

I think on really cold days it will be awesome, because you will be able to squirt a good shot of fuel into the intake, wait a good 15 or 20 seconds to let it vaporize well, and then crank. It's just cool to have full control over it and have the faster starts as well. See, it's not always best to let the computer and sensors make the decisions for you

If anyone is interested in trying it and don't exactly understand the wiring setup, just PM me and I'll be happen to explain in more detail...it only takes about 30 minutes to set up.

CrazyDiamond

Oops...not 'happen'.."happy"! Another brain fart.

MTL_4runner

Glad you got it to work and more power to ya.
Would only be good for 2nd gens because 3rd gens don't have a cold start injector.