WatsonMD

I'm contemplating replacing my '96 SR5 4x4 clutch. It is getting thin on the pedal but not slipping, YET. I've decided to go Toyota OEM as I have gotten about 125K out of the first one.

Never done something like this before. Replaced timing belts, waterpumps, brakes, shocks/springs, ect..... Read many of the replacement write-ups online. It seems easy enough. Any comments???

Questions:

1. Contemplaing replacing the rear main seal at the same time. No leak detected at this time. Just preventative maintence - thoughts??

2. Does clutch replacement require air tools or just a good assortment and a nice breaker-bar, PB Blaster and strong elbow.

3. Fly wheel refinishing!!!! I realize that this will depend on the condition of the surface. IF it is looks OK, do I clean it and lightly non-directionally sand it to remove the glazing or what??

4. Any other suggestions/advice??

Thanks in advance
Andrew

Scofco

I have never done it, so I can't help you out. I do have one tip for you however. The guy I bought my truck from replaced the clutch himself, and didn't do it how he should have and now my throwout bearing is chirping like there is no tommorrow. Be careful that you get everything done while you have it apart.

fooddude

I have replaced the clutch on my old 4runner. Its not too hard it just takes a lot of time. I think it took me and my dad 2 and a half days to replace it. You will need a breaker bar, and some air tools would definately be really helpful. I never had to use pbblaster or anything, but we did break a few bolts trying to get some of the nuts off. Good luck

PS i know there is a writeup on clutch replacement somewhere, im sure someone will have it, because it sure helped me.

Victor

Air tools are not necesary but a buddy is. There are a ton of bolts to loosen (seems like anyway). Get a good breaker bar, wobble extensions, and a tranny jack would be great although I used my big hydraulic jack and a chain.

It only costed me $20 to resurface the flywheel. They basically shave it flat like they do a cylinder head or block. Not only does it remove the small amount of material but it ensures that the surface is completely flat.

I didn't change my rear main seal and I have more miles than you do. I did change my starter contacts while I was down there. I have one of Marlin's clutches, which is basically a more HD OEM clutch. The guys with Centerforce clutches swear by them as do the guys with OEM clutches.

Wild_Bill

Hey there That's a mighty nice write-up you referenced up there . Anyway I didn't have power tools at the time I did it, and even if I had there's alot of tight spots up there. Only place I broke a bolt head was on the lower half-circle shape dust cover. I did not replace the rear main, and would not do it if it wasn't leaking. It would really suck to change it just because you wanted too and end up damaging the area around the seal. Take that flywheel in and have it refinished. It's cheap, quick, and your down to it anyways, so why not?? Biggest advice I have is take your time sliding the trans unit back in, that to me was the hardest part.

SoCal4Running

I replace the clutch in my 4runner in 5 hours , and that was after an 8 hour work day.

No special tools required and DO change the pilot bearing.

Mystickal

1. Contemplaing replacing the rear main seal at the same time. No leak detected at this time. Just preventative maintence - thoughts??

I replaced the clutch in my 96 about 4 months ago, there weren't any problems with the main seal leaking, so I didn't bother replacing mine. Your mileage may vary.

2. Does clutch replacement require air tools or just a good assortment and a nice breaker-bar, PB Blaster and strong elbow.

I used an impact wrench to break loose some of the bolts that held the flywheel on - they were torqued down pretty good, and trying to 'muscle' em off just resulted in the flywheel turning. You can jamb something in the teeth on the edge of the flywheel to keep that from happening, but be careful not to chip a tooth! Other than that, though, just used hand tools.

3. Fly wheel refinishing!!!! I realize that this will depend on the condition of the surface. IF it is looks OK, do I clean it and lightly non-directionally sand it to remove the glazing or what??

I definitely recommend getting the flywheel refinished - it's not very expensive, nor does it take too long (though it may be difficult to find someone to do it - I had mine out on a Sat afternoon and there was only 1 guy in town that would refinish on a Sat. Luckily I had called around earlier that week). If the flywheel isn't refinished, and it's just a little bit off, you're going to tear your new clutch up a lot faster. Why worry about it? Just refinish it while you've got it off.

4. Any other suggestions/advice??

Some of the transmission to engine block bolts (namely, the ones on the top) can be a PAIN to get to. I used a super-long extension (I think it was 30" and came in from behind the entire transmission. Much, much easier (get a friend to line it up at the front end).

Likewise, some of the wiring harnesses can be difficult to get to. The connectors weren't a problem for me - my problem was where some of the wiring loom was mounted to various points on the transmission housing. One of the ones on the top, I came at from behind the transmission under the truck, while my friend was in my cab and guided the socket through the hole in the floor.

USE SIX POINT SOCKETS! PREFERABLY 1/2" DRIVE! I broke a vanadium steel 3/8" drive 12 point socket trying to remove the flywheel. Most of the bolts you'll be removing have relatively high torque specs - a 1/2" drive socket will apply the torque that you need to remove them, and the 6 point sockets will help keep all that force on the bolt. Things were SO much easier when we went from 3/8" 12 point tools to 1/2" 6 point.

We had difficulty determining which side of the clutch went towards the engine. The pictures in the haynes book looked a little backwards, and the description stated something about putting the springs facing a certain way. Well, the springs were on BOTH sides! One side was marked C/C - we originally thought that meant crankcase side (which didn't really make sense) but we later found out it meant clutch/cover (in other words, towards the transmission housing).

A clutch alignment tool makes things A LOT easier! My replacement parts didn't have one, but we managed to beg and borrow. If you have to beg, borrow, or steal to get one, do it - it's worth it, especially if this is your first clutch job!

I think the book I had said to drain the fluid from the transmission. We didn't bother, and didn't have any problems.

The hardest part for us was getting the transmission properly aligned with the engine block when re-installing. We tried it with the truck on the ground, laying on our backs and using our arms to guide it in, but (after about 2 hours!) ended up lifting the whole truck up, putting the transmission on our shoulders, and things just kinda fell into place. I guess that persistance is the key! It has to be perfectly aligned, in all 3 dimensions.

Have fun, and hope this helps! It was my first clutch replacement on a 4Runner, and it was definitely worth the experience (when you put it in gear, and it actually works! What a feeling!)

~Bill

Victor

Bill's comments reminded me about the trick to get the tranny in. You have to rotate the tranny clockwise (when facing towards the back of the engine) to get it over the exhaust. Since your exhaust is on the passenger side you may have rotate anti-clockwise.

WatsonMD

As ever, more than enough information to tackle this project. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

Thanks for the advice
Andrew