dmac1

04 Taco. Flushed some nasty chunky crap out the clutch hydraulic system and all was fine next AM on drive to work. After work, clutch would just barely disengage when pedal fully depressed. Sync'd gears home and have been fighting it ever since.

Got a new master cylinder and bench bled it. Installed and bled system. Pedal still will not rise to full extended position. Just slops around in outer 1/3 of range. Going to pick up a new slave cylinder, but I doubt that is it. Blew air through the line and its clear. Have the slave off right now.

What the heck could be causing the pedal to not return to full extension and for clutch pedal to be non-functional? The adjuster on the pedal is at max extension and we should have max pedal.

All was fine until we decided to fix it.

Thanks.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You did remove the line from the slave cylinder before flushing or did you flush all the crap into the slave cylinder.

In any case they should always be changed as a pair or at least most of us change them both.

dmac1

We flushed some of the crap thru the slave...Stopped and sucked as much as we could out of master cylinder and then resumed bleeding. New slave no fix.

After playing with old slave it appears that problem is something is preventing the pressure plate from fully returning or the throw out bearing is getting hung up and wont fully return. Dunno....but the accordion boot on the slave is only partly compressed and pedal rides 1/3 depressed. Dunno what is really wrong.

Cameoman53

Does your clutch fork have alot of vertical play? Could of come loose off the pivot ball causing it to bind, ive had the ear on the inside of bellhousing that holds the pivot ball break off and i had the same problem, tuff to shift and the clutch wouldnt fully return unless i picked it up with my foot but the slave and master were fine

Cameoman53

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Did this problem start and that was why you flushed and changed the hydraulics .

Sounds like your clutch release bearing is not moving on the shaft like it should.

something broke or came loose.

Any chance of mud or any grit being in there??

Not sure if you can look in with a mirror enough to see.

If the trans needs to come out Time for new clutch??

dmac1

Not alot of vertical play but a little. When the slave is out it moves back and forth quite a bit without any resistance. Just loose and didn't seem right. I tried looking in with a mirror, but can't see enough.

I think I've wasted $ on the new hydraulics. I mean, its pretty obvious thats not the problem at this point, but we're master bleeders now! Lol.

dmac1

We caused the problem somehow by flushing the hydraulics. Or its just coincidental that we flush the hydraulics, its fine in the AM, then broken in the PM. Its my son's truck, but he said he got in after work and no clutch. Thats why we thought air in hydraulics...but that didn't seem to be it so we thought pumping all the crap through it screwed up the master...nope....must be the slave...nope. All new and same problem..actually worse now cuz zero clutch. Had just a smidgen when he limped it home.

There could have been mud or grit from last summer. He had the thing in kinda deep mud and water a couple of times. I noticed the boot around the clutch fork has a big open vent on it. Do guys that 4x4 in water replace that with a sealed boot?

Took off the boot and tried the mirror but no joy.

We've never taken a trans out before but are contemplating it. We've got the Haynes service manual for the truck. It won't go into gear at all now while running so clutch is totally non-functional.

Any major hangups when removing or reinstalling tranny? I haven't read manual yet.

Thanks guys!!

dmac1

I can't see second pic but is the left, bottom end of the fork broken off in the first pic? That end of fork looks shorter.

Your problem sounds similar.

Cameoman53

The forks not shorter, ill take some better pictures, at this point i would say your going to have to drop your tranny, the only way to really see whats happening unless you have a scope

Cameoman53

dmac1

Great pics! Thanks! I'm pretty sure I saw the pivot ball via my mirror. Mine seemed to be ok, but symptoms similar.

When yours was fixed and before you installed the slave, did you notice if the fork was held pretty firmly in position? Mine moves back and forth easily. Seems loose....no pressure on it until I try to activate it, then I can't move it past the loose range.

When slave installed and clutch pushed, the end of the fork only seems to move about an inch and the master cylinder flexes up at at the firewall as there appears to be resistance.

Have decided to try to tackle it ourselves. It'll be a slow process tho. Gotta get a tranny jack first. A harbor freight cheapy seems to be in order..any suggestions?

Cameoman53

The fork shouldnt move the full lenth of the square on the bell housing it should only have minor play, the pivot ball could still be fine, the spring on the fork could of broke letting it move freely, i personally didnt spend the money on a tranny jack but my setup is a little different because its been sas/lifted, i have heard the harbor freight ones will get the job done

dmac1

Thanks. Ours is lifted too but only one of us will likely be here so my son is going to HF to see what he likes.

The fork moves about 1/3, maybe just a little less, of the square opening on the bell housing. It will get disassembled Wednesday and I'll post up what my son finds. Wish I could be here to help. We are hoping its something obvious.

Cameoman53

I live in tacoma washington, ill actually be putting mine back together wednesday, if you have any questions or need a hand if you live near by im more then welcome to lend a hand

dmac1

I appreciate the offer! Unfortunately I live east of Denver, but I may take you up on the online help aspect. Will post up what we find.

I was wondering how you were able to go get better pics that one day...Now I know...you're in the midst of it too. Good luck on your install!

Cameoman53

Yeah, its been in peaces for about 2-3 weeks waiting on parts, finally got all of them so its about time to get it all back together fast because were expecting snow

dmac1

You putting in a new clutch? If so, what did you get? I take it you 4x4?

Cameoman53

Yeah 4x4, i went with the toyota oem clutch, i figured it lasted me 325k miles seems good enough for me

dmac1

How'd you come out on the install? Can't imagine doing that without a tranny jack! That sucker's heavy with the transfer case on it.

We got ours out, but found no internal problems other than the clutch is worn. Its a OEM replacement from an autoparts store. Might have 100k on it. Not totally shot but might as well replace it since its all apart.

Took all the parts to a friend who is a master mechanic at a Toy dealership. Said all looks good as far as clutch fork, throwout bearing, etc. He said, either its not bled right or the rod in the new master cylinder is too short. If thats it I'm gonna be pissed. Haven't compared old vs new yet.

I still wonder though...when assembled but with the slave off, is there much fore/aft movement in the fork? I'm estimating ours had about 1" freeplay (loose wobble) and about 1" of activation when clutch depressed. With it all disassembled, if I push the throwout bearing fully out by hand, I get significantly less fork wobble vs where it was prior to disassembly.