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Check engine light on '00 4Runner SR5?

Old 06-17-2006, 05:52 PM
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Check engine light on '00 4Runner SR5?

Hi all,

Just got my "new" '00 SR5 today delivered from the dealership in Texas. Overall really please with the 4Runner...only saw a bunch of pics online b4 delivery.

Has just over 82K miles on it. Don't think the timing belt has been changed yet.

Drove about 25miles on the highway today after taking delivery. Filled it up with gas, drove another 25miles on the highway. Parked, helped my g/f move and then drove about 15miles on the highway and got off onto local roads. Then the check engine light comes on!! No change in the way the 4Runner is driving or acting. Idling and accelerating everything sounds normal.

Any thought or comments? What should I do? Take it to the local dealer and have them run codes? Am I possible doing any major damage driving it w/the light on?

Kinda bummed this happened after just getting it!

Thanks for the thoughts,
Mike
Old 06-17-2006, 06:06 PM
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Either take it to an autoparts store to pull the code or disconnect the negative battery cable, wait about 20-30sec., then reconnect and start the truck. See if the light comes back on...

If you bought it from a dealership, sometimes vital parts can get wet when they detail the engine bay, or even the body shine they hose it with after can screw stuff up resulting in an intermittent CEL.
Old 06-17-2006, 09:05 PM
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you mentioned you put gas, maybe you didn't tighten the gas cap enough. Double check.
Old 06-17-2006, 10:53 PM
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Yeah, double check that the gas cap is on correctly. If you still get the CEL after checking, try resetting the CEL or take your rig to AutoZone and have them pull the code for you. Once you find what the code is we can help you out better.
Old 06-18-2006, 01:50 AM
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Double ditto on those last 2 posts...had the same problem once about 30 miles after a fill-up.
Old 06-18-2006, 07:12 AM
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Go to autozone or the equivalent there, they will usually pull the code for free. Post the code here.

I recently had a check engine light. It was the MAF sensor. All fixed now. Not much goes wrong with these vehicles from what I can tell. MAF's, O2 sensors
Old 06-18-2006, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by kcebes
Go to autozone or the equivalent there, they will usually pull the code for free. Post the code here.
Ditto on that advice.
Old 06-18-2006, 09:58 AM
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i assume u did not puy disel in it, but was it cheap gas, if the old owner used primium nad u pu regular cheap gas it can set off a cel
Old 06-18-2006, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by HUTCHSTACO
i assume u did not puy disel in it, but was it cheap gas, if the old owner used primium nad u pu regular cheap gas it can set off a cel
That won't set off a CEL. The only way switching from 91 -> 87 would cause a CEL is if there was a problem with 87 that 91 fixed (knocking).

If you put 85 in there (which some areas still sell) then yes, you might encounter some orange light problems.
Old 06-18-2006, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by kcebes
Go to autozone or the equivalent there, they will usually pull the code for free. Post the code here.

I recently had a check engine light. It was the MAF sensor. All fixed now. Not much goes wrong with these vehicles from what I can tell. MAF's, O2 sensors
Sorry to hijack but where did you buy your MAF sensor and how much did it run you?
Old 06-18-2006, 06:07 PM
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Update all...

Thanks for all the tips.
Last night I did disconnect the neg battery cable, let it sit for a few mins and then put back on. CEL went away. Drove it about 25 miles today and the light came back on. Did the neg cable unplug again...CEL off. Came back on in 20-30miles range. Drove another 15miles or so with it on and then after next start up it was off. Now it is back on!
I did put 87 octane in but have no clue what the previous owner used.
I'll take it to try to get the codes pulled tomorrow.
Overall tho it is driving great.

Thanks,
Mike
Old 06-19-2006, 04:38 AM
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The Autozones here in PA will pull the code for free. Find a local joint that'll do the same and post the code. I doubt you're doing any damage to the vehicle as most of the codes are rather benign. You may or may not even notice any change in the vehicle's driveability.

Once you post the code, it could be as simple as cleaning the MAF (which is a very common CEL).
Old 06-19-2006, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by stangman39
Hi all,

Just got my "new" '00 SR5 today delivered from the dealership in Texas. Overall really please with the 4Runner...only saw a bunch of pics online b4 delivery.

Has just over 82K miles on it. Don't think the timing belt has been changed yet.

Drove about 25miles on the highway today after taking delivery. Filled it up with gas, drove another 25miles on the highway. Parked, helped my g/f move and then drove about 15miles on the highway and got off onto local roads. Then the check engine light comes on!! No change in the way the 4Runner is driving or acting. Idling and accelerating everything sounds normal.

Any thought or comments? What should I do? Take it to the local dealer and have them run codes? Am I possible doing any major damage driving it w/the light on?

Kinda bummed this happened after just getting it!

Thanks for the thoughts,
Mike

spend the 25 bucks and buy an OBD 2 scanner from a parts store, used it to get this code, and keep it for the future

if it runs good still,,,,I am betting O2 sensor,,or,,Evap cannister
Old 06-19-2006, 10:37 AM
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Got a scanner...was a bit more then $25 but that's ok.

Pulled the codes. Said there were 2. One was "172" which in my book says ""System Too Rich (Bank 1)". I erased it and the CEL went out. The other code was "172 Pending" Not sure what the pending part means. I guess I'll see when the CEL comes back on. Should I do anything about the too rich code?

Thanks,
Mike
Old 06-20-2006, 05:44 AM
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That would be "P0172". Do a forum search. I recall this as a common CEL code but can't recall what the fix is...
Old 06-20-2006, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by stangman39
Got a scanner...was a bit more then $25 but that's ok.

Pulled the codes. Said there were 2. One was "172" which in my book says ""System Too Rich (Bank 1)". I erased it and the CEL went out. The other code was "172 Pending" Not sure what the pending part means. I guess I'll see when the CEL comes back on. Should I do anything about the too rich code?

Thanks,
Mike
Pending means the system has seen the conditions which would trigger the code but it must be seen 3 times to actually throw a CEL (so when a code is pending, the ECU is basically counting).

Few threads for you to read on that:
https://www.yotatech.com/search.php?searchid=1854421
Old 06-20-2006, 07:59 PM
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Sounds like an easy fix. The MAF sensor is dirty and requires cleaning. I have used QD Electrical parts cleaner. You first have to remove the Maf sensor and be really careful with this thing. A couple of short bursts from the aerosol spray on the sensor, reinstall and the codes go away!!!!
Old 06-21-2006, 03:20 AM
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I'm gonna try to clean the MAF today.
I've noticed a bit of a jumpy idle in the morning too so hope it solves that also.

Mike
Old 06-21-2006, 08:34 AM
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Well, tried to go remove the MAF sensor and I was able to get the top screw out but the bottom bolt...the head is stripped pretty good and I can't get any type of screwdriver in there to turn it! Unless I can figure out some way to get it out I may need to take the top bolt out and just break the sensor around the screw and take the screw out w/pliers...and get a new sensor. What do they run from the dealer?

Also noticed the front clips of my air cleaner box were not clipped shut.

Mike
Old 06-21-2006, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by stangman39
Well, tried to go remove the MAF sensor and I was able to get the top screw out but the bottom bolt...the head is stripped pretty good and I can't get any type of screwdriver in there to turn it! Unless I can figure out some way to get it out I may need to take the top bolt out and just break the sensor around the screw and take the screw out w/pliers...and get a new sensor. What do they run from the dealer?

Also noticed the front clips of my air cleaner box were not clipped shut.

Mike
In that case the best way to get it off is to use a drill to drill off the head of the screw, remove the sensor and use a pair of pliers to remove the remaining portion.

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