wmflyfisher

I'm looking at purchasing an 02 4Runner that's from up north. The outside is in truly immaculate condition but the underside has minimal signs of rust in variuos areas including the inside of the rear chrome bumper and other places. What will be the best way to tackle this?? I was planning on coating all of it with rustoleum black when I install the lift and all. Should this be good enough? Any help would be great.

Thanks, Wes

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

spraypaint will just chip off. Rustoleum is just a trick marketing name to make you think its actually effective at stopping rust.

POR15 works very well, as do most brands of rubberized undercoating. Sand and coat any areas you can get to, and POR15 the rest of it.

stagger_lee

x2 POR15 is it.

rocket

iTrader: (1)

x3 for POR-15.
I have a 10% off coupon code that I'll give ya if you decide on trying it.

algranger

por15 is great. i would recomend trying to remove all of the rust.. surface rust should be easy. rustoleum is, imo, the best paint for yer truck ive done 3 of my trucks with it and its great. it, like any other paint will not stop rust if sprayed over it. if you remove ALL signs of rust in an area and paint it it will prevent it from rusting up again.

wmflyfisher

Thanks guys, do they make it in a spray can or should I use the quart cans with a brush?? Who should I buy it from too?

trbizwiz

It brushes on real nice and easy, and comes out looking real smooth. I have pictures on my link in my signature. One quart will do your whole frame, but you will need more that a quart of the cleaner and the etcher. You might want to spray some linseed oil or the like on the inside of the frame if the 02's are still a boxed frame, the yotas rust more from the inside out. Make sure if you are going to paint you do that first, you will probably never get that linseed oil off once it cures, and I doubt POR 15 will stick to it.

rocket

iTrader: (1)

It brushes on unlike any paint that you've ever used. It's really easy to spread but you have to be careful that you don't apply too much at a time. A little goes a long way.
I would recommend getting their 4oz. 'Six Pack' because you'll want to use all of each can and for what your doing, one quart could possibly take a few days or weeks. Resealing the lid only works for a short time, even with plastic between the lid/can....the stuff is extremely sensitive to oxygen.

I buy it at www.por15.com and I'll give you a 10% coupon code. It's a little pricey but it cures and hardens as good as, if not better than powder coating.

954rrmike

i have used rustbullet with great success. It is similar to por15. I coated my rusted bumpers a year and a half ago and they are like the day I did them. you could also spray on a rust preventor such as fluidfilm, this product is excellent at preventing and stopping rust. I live in the salt belt of the world and have tried dozens of products over the years. The rustbullet stops rust and fluid film will prevent future rust.

Yodaforce

Eastwood makes a cool rust converter/encapsulator in spray cans and quarts. Worth looking into.

wmflyfisher

Thanks for the overwhelming responses guys. I'll probably go with the rust bullet since its cheaper and probably just as good. I'll let you guys know how its turns out.

DailyDrive

Why are you concerned with "minimal signs of rust"? What happened to cost-benefit analysis? $50 of POR to protect a steel bumper that could be replaced for $100? Doesn't make to me. Even 10$ on a $100 part doesn't make sense, as realistically there will be no issues from minimal rusting, and you won't even recoup that $10 as higher resale.

wmflyfisher

What???? Are you serious? Do you know what happens to rust left exposed even after just a month? It can spread like wildfire. I would be replacing more than just a bumper if I just left it. Do you care about the things you own???? I know I sure do. Not trying to be brutal but it definitely could turn ugly if not taken care of.

64-Hurricane

I'm not going to get personal with this. You have a good point. But for those of us like me, that live in areas where they salt cure the roads and snowbanks every winter. Preventing, repairing, and stopping as much rust as possible go's a LONG way. Basically, every winter we drive our rigs, more and more of it disappears. Rust is an oxidizing cancer of metals. If I had cancer, even a small cancer, I'd cut the dang thing off!! Same thing go's for my truck. Most people like they're rig to shine too.

For me, my rig's end up looking more like they've undergone a bad urban camo job after I've had them long enough. I attack rust spots with the wire wheel, metal etcher and zink rick spray paint. I use whatever color I have around from various other projects. Sometimes brown, sometimes gray, sometimes white, sometimes maroon, and sometimes green.

To each their own, but I'd guess most would spend 10 bucks to paint a 100 dollar bumper while drinking a 6 pack of brews and shooting the breeze with good friends....

Mike

DailyDrive

I care where it matters. I can tell you for sure that I have never bought POR at $50 a quart to make something last 30 years when it will be throw away in 15. It makes no sense to invest in something that will realistically never pay off. I live in the rust belt, and I know that places that potentially could be protected with some anti-rust product will never cause me trouble as far as rust is concerned.

nah2323

OK BACK TO THE TOPIC KIDS! J/K.. but seriously.

Get in the Zone and grab some Rust Converter. brush that on a few times after a good wire brushing, and then POR15 it. Problem solved. Rubber undercoat traps moisture. rust converter turns rust into a high carbon based material that doesn't rust. I do it to my plow blades and its great.

wmflyfisher

Wow, now that really makes no sense right there. To each is own though. Thanks for the input guys