bobzemuda

So my sliders should be arriving this evening according to my UPS tracking number in hand. I've been wondering, however, what the best method is to go about bolting the sliders on. I have a feeling that I will have to come up with my own self tapping bolts, so where to buy them is a question. I assume I'll need a right angle drill as well.

I guess my questions are as follows:

1. Will I need a right angle drill? Looks like it to me.
2. Where might I attempt to buy self tapping bolts for this application of the right strength? I assume Grade 8.
3. What's a good method for lining the sliders up to mark where to drill?
4. Do you center punch the mark so that the drill goes in where you want it?
5. Is it best to get two of the holes drilled and bolt them up to the frame and then use the slider as a template for the rest of the holes?

As I'm going to be drilling 12 holes per side, I don't want to screw this up.

Thanks as always, my stupid questions are growing slimmer I hope.

Bill

loosehead

I built my sliders to bolt on...here's the old thread. If you look at the first pic, you can see that I used some nice beefy angle iron as mounting brackets that cradle the frame. What I did was drill all the hole on my brackets, then got some large C-clamps and my florr jack and got the slider into position and clamped. Then , I just drilled one hole in the frame at each far end, then bolted them in place. Then you can remove the clamps and floorjcak and drill/bolt the rest. I didn't use a right-angle drill, I just made sure that the side holes in each bracke were low enough to be clear of the body. For the bolts, Albuquerque Jim picked them up for me (us, we built his at the same time) at a Nut/Bolt/fasteners only store in Albuquerque. We used 3/8" by 1" self tappers in grade 8. I can't remember the exact size of the bit you use for the starter hole, but I think it was 5/16" - get a good cobalt bit for this, it will make things go a lot easier.
Hope that helps, lemme know if you have any more questions.

bobzemuda

Huge help, that's exactly what I was envisioning minus the possible need for the right angle drill.

Robinhood150

What kind of sliders are they? Roger Browns (4crawlers) or somebody else's? If they're rogers then I think they come with the bolts. If they're somebody else's and they're not designed to use the pinch weld as a support, then you can't use self tapping bolts, they'll pull right out.

bobzemuda

They're Maniac Metal / Kong's style sliders.

Robinhood150

Do they recommend using self tapping bolts? I found two styles of mounting brackets, a flat one and a L shaped one. Which style is it?

Flat:


L shaped:


Personally, I'd highly recommend against self tapping bolts for the flat style. The bottom bolts are in tension and will likely strip out the thin frame material when used hard enough. The L shaped brackets will place the bottom bolts in shear which is a little better, but may or may not enlarge the frame holes.

But I guess it all depends on how hard you're going to use them. The hardcore guys will sleeve the frame and use a thick backing plate to distribute the loads. Since they're going on a new truck you're probably not going to bash on them a whole lot so you might be alright.

bobzemuda

Well, I don't know which mounting plate it's going to be to be honest. As they don't make these sliders anymore, I got a name of one of the Maniac Metal guys that now works for Daystar. I called him up to see if they had any of the old style and he wasn't sure. A while later I got a call from a shop in AZ with a price. A couple calls were made to make sure they were the Kong's style sliders and not the newer crapier daystar ones, and the order was placed before they changed their minds as I really like the look of those sliders.

So, if not self tapping, what else do people do, run a bolt through the frame and put a nut on the other side?

sschaefer3

So what shop called you back?

Robinhood150

How did you mount yours Steve?

bobzemuda

It was all kind of interestingly shady.

I called Daystar on your recomendation and asked for him. They said he didn't work at that location. I asked if he worked for them, and they said yes. I asked if I could have that number and they reluctantly gave it to me. After a couple days of trying to get a hold of him, I finally got a hold him, and he said he didn't know what happened to the old Maniac Metal stock but that Daystar had purchased it all and he'd call the Daystar sales people to see if they knew.

Next thing I know, a guy named Mario at Off Road Unlimited (www.macromotive.com) called me with a price. I called Mark to verify that he had Mario call me, and whether or not the product was the three legged Kong style slider, and not the newer cheesier overpriced ones with the slick metal plate.

Everyone said yes, so I ordered them up. Mario seemed to think they were shipping something that was in stock, but it took about 2 weeks for them to ship them, so I really have no idea. I got the impression in talking to Mark, that he was going to fab them, and he didn't have the old stock, but I really have no idea, and I'm curious to see what shows up on my doorstep today. Hopefully I'm pleased.

Bill

bobzemuda

I second this question as well. I didn't email you as I figured I'd hassled you with enough questions for now.

I look forward to answering someone elses questions someday as a little payback.

sschaefer3

Mark Owsiany welded them on directly to the frame. So far so good, they are scaratched up but still doing just fine.

That place I think is Desert Rat, they are all buddies. I am willing to bet your getting some under the table ones.

Robinhood150

Just off the top of my head, for the flat mount I'd use grade 8 bolts all the way through for the bottom bolts. Be sure to use grade 8 nuts and washers too. For the top bolts self tapping should be ok.

For the L shaped brackets you'd have to use self tapping otherwise they'll interfere with each other, I'd think.

Note: Ideally, I would weld in some sleeves to prevent crushing the frame and/or use a backing plate to distribute the loads across the frame face.

Cebby

I thought you HAD to use self tappers on the gas tank side (near the tank) of the 3rd Gen. Something about not enough room between the framerail and the gas tank to through-bolt it. Hence part of the prevalence with welding on. I had read this quite some time ago, so the memory might be a bit fuzzy...

loosehead

True, unless you want to drop the skid plate and gas tank. The key to self tappers is to not over-tighten them...

bobzemuda

Well, happily, everything arrived as I'd assumed to include mounting instructions and bolts. I didn't think I'd get those things.

It was the most impressive packaging job I've seen, and it's deinitely what TJM should be doing with their bumpers.

Large pieces of styrofoam were placed in the box, and then the kind of foam you blow that expands was blown all around it to keep everything firmly in place.

Perhaps I'm just easily impressed.

Bill

Robinhood150

So which mounting style is it and what kind of bolts? Just curious.

bobzemuda

It's the flat mounting plate just like xtreme mike's. The bolts are identical to his as well. Self threading.

They also recomend tack welding.

"Note: For off-road use, we recommend placing a 1" long tack weld on each frame mounting plate for etra security"

what do you think they mean by that...the bottom where it would be trying to pull away from the frame and strip out the screw? That's what I'd think.

Bill

sschaefer3

So are they the old style? Just like mine?

bobzemuda

They're exactly like yours. Thanks for the tip on getting a hold of Mark.




Bill