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Transmission cooler installations have been covered many times before in this forum, but I thought I would add to the wealth of knowledge with my slightly different installation method.
I originally planned to install the transmission cooler with the provided zip ties, but I was a little apprehensive with the span of the tie from the rear of the radiator to the front of the AC condenser. The many hard mount methods I have seen looked difficult to get the cooler next to the AC condenser with minimal gap between the two (lots of bending and fitting of the brackets).
In order to control the gap and to simplify the installation, I used the mounting hardware provided with the cooler plus a couple extra bolts and a bunch of washers (see picture).
A few hints on doing this installation:
- A longer bolt will be required at the horn mount position.
- A new bolt will be needed for the lower body mount position; this bolt will need to be magnetic (not stainless steel) so that a pin magnet can be used to guide it through the hole. Also, because the back end of the bolt cannot be held with a wrench, a long bolt will be required so that it can be grabbed by the shaft when tightening the nut; but not too long or the AC condenser will prevent it from going into the hole.
- In lieu of bending the provided brackets, washers can be used to adjust the cooler distance from the AC condenser.
- Two of the holes in the cooler that are used for the zip tie mounting method will need to be opened up to so a bolt can be used through them.
To clear out the original radiator transmission cooler of ATF I used a spare piece of 3/8” hose and inserted a garden hose nozzle into one end and attached the other end to the cooler port. I then turned on the water at a very slow rate and let it run through the cooler until the water came out clear. I left the cooler open for a couple of drives to dry out all of the internal water, then I bridged the two ports with 3/8 hose.
Hopefully this information will help someone with their installation.
I was wondering if this would be an extensive DIY. I still believe your tranny flush and timing belt are DIY benchmarks used to this day.
Nice job. I have had the 70264 for five years with zero issues. Make sure the fan clutch is working 100%.
Instead of using washers to cover the screw for the horn to the frame, I used a nylon spacer, then cut it to fit, but was able to use the original screw.
I was wondering if this would be an extensive DIY.
The cooler install has been covered pretty extensively elsewhere, so I refrained from creating a DIY on this one. However, I did want to show the ability to adjust the cooler distance from the AC condenser by using washers instead of bending the brackets.
Nylon spacers sound like another great way to do this.
The problem with not mounting it flush against the condenser is air flow. Air takes the path of least resistance. If its not flush, the air flow will just go around and behind the cooler reducing the efficiency of the trans cooler to near nill. If you do it this way, buy some 1" foam weather strip and seal the cooler to the condenser. You want the engine cooling fan to suck air thru the cooler or its just a fancy steel pipe with no benefit. If you want the benefits of a cooler without mounting it flush to the condenser, add an electric fan. I found that yamaha had some real nice puller radiator fans about 7" diameter that can be retrofitted will a little effort. I like oem motorcycle fans better than aftermartket because they are designed to last under all conditions and come in all diiferent sizes and shapes.
But in the end, mounting it flush is the easiest, cheapest way to add a cooler.
I'm about as close as the zip tie spacers would put the cooler to the AC condenser.
The washers give me the ability to adjust the cooler distance to the condenser in about 1/16" increments. I have about 1/8"-3/16" clearance all the way around. I'll have to measure the provided zip tie spacers, but I think they were about 1/8" thick.
The nylon spacers are rated to 500f, or at least the ones I got from Lowes are. In five years, no cracks or anything similar that could lead them to fail.
I actually bent bracket and attached them to the lower frame and to the center divider. The cooler is about 1/8" away from the condenser and seems to work well. I will snap a pic or two and post them soon since I used much of your legwork to do the timing belt.
If you have a Scangauge or Torque Pro app to read tranny temps, the ATF begins to be cooled at 170F and readily cools once it hits 180F.
I'm about as close as the zip tie spacers would put the cooler to the AC condenser.
The washers give me the ability to adjust the cooler distance to the condenser in about 1/16" increments. I have about 1/8"-3/16" clearance all the way around. I'll have to measure the provided zip tie spacers, but I think they were about 1/8" thick.
Hi skjos-
Congrats on joining the external cooler club You ARE THINKING RIGHT ABOUT GETTING THE COOLER AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE CONDENSER....damn caps lock locked up on me ...... I have no pics but I mounted my Hayden 679 from Pepboys right between the condenser and radiator.....used the supplied zip ties and felt washers and zipped it right to the radiator(there is almost a 2" gap between the condenser and radiator so has plenty of room). The real estate on the front of the radiator is 100% clear and I positioned it directly in front of the fan shroud/fan blades.
I couldn't be happier. The scanguage 2 shows that even in the 105 degree summers here that the tranny oil is a cool 150 to 170 degrees.
Take notice of the condenser.....the 1" gap that seems to be all the way around its perimeter. Ken
08-27-2014, 03:48 PM
You ARE THINKING RIGHT ABOUT GETTING THE COOLER AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE CONDENSER....damn caps lock locked up on me 
