rustytoys

I have a 2001 2wd 3.4 4Runner and I just saw there are two types of transmissions, can anyone tell me if I have the "F" or "E"? Also I see a lot of threads arguing about fluid type, can anyone confirm what type is best?

My main question is at 106K should I bother with the transmission filter? I bought a filter for my old Tacoma but never put it on because I thought I read somewhere that it was a waste of time or something, and then when you look at the filter itself I don't see how it could get clogged... but Im no expert.

Also, I was told by a Toyota tech at the dealership never to flush the transmission at high mileage because it puts too much pressure on the seals, he said to do a drain and fill, anyone agree with him?

mt_goat

Look on the side of the tranny for a tag like this:



I'd recommend doing this: http://home.centurytel.net/stevenjac...sh/tranny.html

I don't see how this type of flush would put any more pressure on the seals than just driving does. It just uses the transmission ATF pump to move the ATF.

Leviticus6432

I thought the F was 4wd and the E was 2wd? I like that link, but I don't think its necessary to flush the system unless you have a bunch of crap in the pan. And if you have a bunch of crap in the pan you should prob concider rebuilding soon anyway.

rustytoys

Thanks mt_goat, I didn't know the transmission was tagged; just took a look and got the same tag you posted 30-40LE.

The thing about the flush is that like I said, it seems logical to me that you could put a lot of pressure on the seals and do damage, but I guess you don't agree?

And the filter, again I just don't understand how it could get "clogged"; I just looked at my factory toyota one I have left over from my tacoma and it is labled as a "strainer" for one - so a strainer is not a filter; also, I look through the holes and I don't see any screen or anything that could get clogged up.

mmcpeck

The flush will put no more pressure on any seal than just driving, in fact way less since it's at idle. All you are doing is running the engine and in turn the transmission is pumping fluid. The transmission doesn't know the cooling line is going into a bucket, and you are re-filling, it is just sitting there pumping same as it does anytime you start the car. You're just pumping out a quart, shutting the engine off and re-filling with a quart of fresh, eventually you pump out all of the old fluid and replace with new.

What the Toyota tech was talking about was the "power flush" machines that places used to use, not even sure they use them anymore. They would backflush the tranny to get the old fluid out under pressure and in some cases dislodge crud that had built up and would eventually get stuck in the valve body. The newer flush machines backflush at lower pressure I believe. But no harm will come from just popping off the cooler line and running the fluid out at idle, there is way more pressure in the tranny when you're out driving it under load.

mt_goat

No I don't, at least not with the type of flushing in that link or at most of the shops now. They just use the internal ATF pump IN the tranny to move the ATF out. It is done at idle, so how could that possible put a lot of pressure on the seals? I think at one time there were flush machines out there that used an external pump to service transmissions and they might have used high pressure and that is where this myth is from. EDIT: Yes mmcpeck you beat me to the post lol.

Again I disagree, a strainer IS a filter. Its just a different type You should see the strainer/filter when you look in the holes, but you can really only see about 10% of it at most with out destroying it. It is possible you could use it for hundreds of thousands in miles and it wouldn't get too clogged to flow (unless something serious happens to the tranny). What I've noticed on mine was little slivers of metal get stuck in it and slowly work their way though it. But it is such a pain to drop the pan you might as well replace it when the pan is off. The main benefit IMHO to dropping the pan is to clean the magnets and inspect for problems.

Remember things as small as lint from a rag can cause problems with shift solenoids so don't drop the pan unless you can keep everything very clean. I wouldn't do it outside in windy or dusty conditions.

rustytoys

Okay, that makes sense, thanks for clearing that up.

rustytoys

You are right it is a filter, I guess what I meant was that its not a filter like a fuel filter or gunk filter - from what I can see its just a waffle pattern almost like a gold catching riffle which is meant for catching large chunks of metal like you said - not gunk; however, I do agree I can't see it all so if I end up doing it I will tear my old one apart to confirm. My point here is only that if I am right then I don't see any point in replacing it unless your transmission is already screwed up and full of metal shavings...

I will have to read the home-flush method tutorial again, but I did 3 drain and fills on my old Tacoma and it had the fluid like brand new after only 2 drains, so I don't see any real advantage to all of that work when a drain and fill seems to do the same thing?

BMcEL

Less than 25% of the fluid comes out when you drain. Flushing is the ONLY way to get all new fluid in there.

With that said, when I changed the fluid in my old A340 I just drained/filled a few times. Never had a problem doing it that way.

spokane.yota.man

I wouldn't have a power flush done, I've heard horror stories about them. It tends to stir up loose bits and crud, not good. I'm pretty sure the filter is listed as a lifetime part in these transmissions. There's a drain bolt, so its easy to drain, fill, drive and repeat a couple times. It gets most the old fluid out and its easy. I would think that if your filter was ever bad enough to need changed then you'd have big problems.

BMcEL

And for a reason. If a shop wants to 'power flush' your trans, run the other way. The only safe way to flush an automatic is to let it draw in new fluid under it's own power.

mt_goat

All the shops around here that I've seen use safe machines, they use the tranny's own pump to move the ATF in and out. The tranny will not suck it in, but these machines have a bladder divider with 2 reservoirs and the bladder in between. New ATF is put in one side while the other is empty. As the old ATF is pumped out of the tranny by the engine running, the new ATF gets pushed in as the bladder moves to the other side.

mt_goat

So you don't see the very fine screen inside? The screen is fine like those reusable coffee filters if you have seen those.

rustytoys

No, all I can see is the waffle pattern in the metal inside and a large open area so there is not much room for much else. I am not saying there is not more there, its just all I can see; like I said if I end up doing it I will do an autopsy on my old one.

Do you have any knowledge on actual mileage intervals on the filter recommended by Toyota? I didn't see anything in the owners manual's maintenance intervals.

Basically I'm just trying to get out of doing the filter as its a decent pain in the ass to take that pan off... but if I have to do it I will - I'm at 106K right now.

rustytoys

Actually I read another post where they talked about this, it seems to vary for some guys on how much they get out.

The last one I did was an 03 Tacoma 4x4 and I was getting 50%+ out with every drain; I ran it between drains to circulate the fluid and after 3 drains trust me the fluid was 90%+ pure at that point, so I can't see any advantage to a flush there.

But yeah, if your model tranny only drains 25% then it would be much harder to get it pure that way...

BMcEL

Toyota claims it is a lifetime part.

BMcEL

I had an A340...same transmission. If you're running it between drains, then you are obviously going to get more fluid out. The advantage to a flush is you get 100% of the old fluid out which is not possible with the drain/fill method.

rustytoys

The truck I did it on I think had the A340F which takes 10.7 quarts vs my new 4runner has the A340E which takes only 7.7, so not sure if you just think your only getting 25% out if you have the smaller "E"? But like I said I read a post where guys were talking how it varies, but yes I did it HOT each time so I think that perhaps helped.

I actually don't see how a flush would get more out if your not using pressure, your still mixing new fluid with old during a flush...

rustytoys

Okay awesome thanks. I just read the tutorial link about flushing at the top of this post that mt_goat posted and that guy said to just inspect it and its up to you if you want to replace it.

Leviticus6432

I can not see how flushing a transmission by disconnecting a cooler line would be safe? I understand you are supplying it with new fluid but all that does is keep the converter full of fluid. That is very important, but so is keeping the rest of the transmission full. The insides of the trans still spin with the trans in park or neutral, the clutches just don't lock up to allow the output shaft to remain disengaged. The fluid goes from the pan through the pump and converter, out the cooler, and back in to supply fluid to all other rotating parts. You are starving all of these parts of fluid when you disconnect the return line. This process seems as smart as saying you should pull the drain plug on your engine oil pan, fire up your motor, and run a few quarts through just to rinse it out. Sure there is some oil in there, but not in all the required places.