stir_fry_boy

Just wondering if anyone else has had my problem that I fixed yesterday. I replaced the front oil seal in the txfer case between the flange and txfer case going into the front driveline. Just to let everyone know, this is an easy job and the dealer quoted me $130 with tax to fix. You do need a 32 or so mm socket and an air gun to get the flange off. I fixed it for $10 (oil seal) + diff fluid (whichever you want to use) I did loose about 3/4 qt of diff fluid and since I used AMSOIL Severe Gear 75w90, I just topped it off.

J2F42C

SFB,

I am deeply saddened that you did not replicate your great video documentation with the drive belt installation on this repair, not to mention the tundra brake upgrade.....

Ha!

If you would not mind, post the part number of the seal for future folks browsing this thread....

stir_fry_boy

I know. I didn't do it at my house. I went to my grandpa's house because he has air tools and I forgot my camera. I could have used my phone, but the pics wouldn't have been great. I will post a pic of the problem area on my txfer case and give an explanation of how to fix it. It is pretty straightforward. As far as my tundra brakes are concerned, I was bummed that I couldn't do pics and I needed compressed air to bleed the brakes. I will post some soon of my old ones and how the new ones looked and a pic of the Tundra that I took them off of.

Here is a picture of my problem:



I first removed the 4 nuts and washers holding the driveline in the flange toward the left of the picture. I then used a crowbar to pry on the driveline to get it collapsed enough to get it off the 4 studs and moved the driveline to the side. Inside there was a big nut (axle nut 32 mm I believe) that had been indented. I used a flat screwdriver to undo the indentation and used an air gun to get the big nut off. I then tapped the flange and fluid came out and there was the seal. I used a hammer and a flat screwdriver to get the seal out, put a new seal in (coated with oil) and put it back on in reverse of removal.

You are supposed to mark the driveline for balance precautions. I didn't but I was fine. Make sure that you do this that way you don't end up doing it twice.

Total time - 1 hr no previous driveline experience but many hours mechanical experience. Money saved = $110. Don't try this if you don't have an air gun. My friend tried undoing that big nut by hand and a 2 1/2 ft breaker bar and couldn't get it undone. I also put the truck in 4wd to have resistance on those 4 nuts and washers in the beginning. I shifted to N on the transfer case when I needed to spin the driveline.

brian2sun

When I did the front t-case output seal, I had to search around for a while to find the right seal. Apparently, there is a 40mm seal (most common) and a 40.5mm seal. Mine took the 40.5mm and it was a PITA to find. Even the dealer couldn't confirm 100% which one I needed (even with my VIN) so I just had to remove it and match it up by eye. My point is, there was some discrepancy on the part # for me so you may have issues with someone else's part # from a different 3rd gen.