White SR5

Dropped in the supercharger this weekend. Definately had an enjoyable time, although it was frustrating at some points. The TRD throttle body gasket is yet to come... so that will be another 1.5 psi, but I can definately notice a power increase! I really feel like I've accomplished something! Hey, anyone need help putting their S/C in? I've gotta admit though, I'm still power hungry... gotta scrounge up another $500 for the supra injectors and the S-AFC! Love peace and chikin' grease!

Zach

Zubaltec

TRD throttle body gasket? What psi are you running now?

John

White SR5

I didn't have all the parts that you're supposed to have when you install it. One of them that you're supposed to have is a new TRD throttle body gasket. It is circulular shaped to allow more air flow versus the stock "D" shaped one that restricts an estimated 1.5 psi. I haven't hooked up the boost guage yet, but I bet I am only running 5 psi at max for now. That will change though on Wednesday! The TRD gasket is coming in the mail then.

Zach

Mad Chemist

Sweet Dood! How much did you pay for the SC? Notice any pinging or anything?

White SR5

For the S/C it was $1200, then another $75 to have it welded back together in a few un-important places. Un-important as in I could have installed it without them and still had it work, just didn't want to take the risk. The front and rear mounting tabs on the S/C were broken off of it, so I just got 'em stuck back on. Good as new now. No pinging or anything yet, maybe when I put the new TRD gasket in though, we'll see. May have been some when I was going 90mph at WOT and then I switched the overdrive off (I slowed down after that...). I'll keep you posted on how things go though. What impressed me most was that I could maintain a constant speed of 50 mph at only 1500 rpm, and I could maintain 60 at just under 2000 rpm. Before, they were like 2500 and 3000!

Zach

Mad Chemist

Man, thats not a bad price at all, was it used?

White SR5

Ya, it is Creed's (Cstary on yota) old S/C. The Toyota dealership around here told me $3700 new, so I can say I got it for 1/3rd of the price!

Zach

Mad Chemist

3700!!!! That's unbelievable! I'd like the extra power, but for that much money, I'd swap in a different engine altogether.

EDGE

Very nice man and if your truck is reving at such low rpm's shouldn't your gas mileage increase long as your not heavy on the pedal

White SR5

Oh yeah I also noticed that the acceleration from 50mph to 70mph WITH the S/C is the same as the acceleration from 20mph to 40mph without it. Makes that funky sound though. I went up to see my buddy who works at auto zone today (didn't tell him about it), and I said there was this big black thing in the engine bay and it was making a funny sound. He had no clue what I was talking about... until I popped the hood!

Zach

4RunnerFever

Welcome to the club! The supercharger was the best thing I ever did to my 4Runner. I couldn't be happier.

SLC Punk

The supercharger was one of the best things I bought for my 4Runner!!!

cstary

i'm looking forward to seeing if there's a big increase in power with the TB gasket and correct check valve.

creed

mozzie

welcome to the lead footers club

rwmorrisonjr

Congrats on the install and the awesome price!

I just joined the club this weekend too, dropped mine in with the boost gauge on Saturday, and what a difference. I'm pushing about 5 psi boost, but since I'm at 5000 ft, that's the same as ~7 psi at sea level. It really smooths out the power curve and lets me climb hills w/o taxing the engine. I only had one problem, and that was that I over-torqued the rear mount bolt and sheared it off, but I don't seem to have any leaks or movement on the manifold or SC. This is one of the easiest mods to do if you can get past the initial cost, and one of the best returns on the investment!

I didn't put the decals all over my truck so I have the stealth SC'ed 4Runner!

White SR5

I did the same thing, rwmorrisonjr. I snapped the front mounting stud off. What you can do is go to any hardware and ask for a tool to take out a snapped stud. I think mine was called a "Quick Fix". It costs under $5, so it's worth it I'd say. What it is is basically a left-hand threaded screw that gets bigger as you go up it. You drill a small hole in the broken stud that's long enough to get the tool in, and then start screwing. It's left-hand threaded though so when you are turning counter-clockwise with it, the threads will grab onto the sides of your snapped stud and screw it right out. Then all ya need is another stud and you're good to go. Remember -- only 13 ft.-lbs. of torque to the manifold bolts! I reccomend using the "set and click" type of torque wrench. Once it clicks though, don't torque any more at all. Just go slow and you can have it fixed in no time.

Zach

rwmorrisonjr

Awesome, thanks for the info, will go to the hardware store tomorrow and pick one up. As for the stud, did you have to go to Toyota to replace it or can I get that at either the hardware or an auto parts store? And can I do it w/o having to remove the entire charger again?

White SR5

Well... I put the S/C in this weekend and I've been driving around non-stop (used a full tank of gas already!), so I didn't have the time to wait for the engine to cool to take the stud out. I haven't done it yet is what I'm saying, but it will work. The stud -- you should be able to pick up at a hardware store. I'd reccomend lubticating it somehow before you screw the new stud back in. If ya go to Ace Hardware just tell them what ya need (thing to fix broken studs and lubricant) and they'll get it for ya. Should be under $10. Then just torque the bolt on there -- very slowly though -- to 13 ft. lbs.

Zach

rwmorrisonjr

I know, same here about the driving bit, have blown through a half tank of gas since Saturday but I've been taking it easy too, letting the SC break in. The mountains are where it will count for me.

ManyMods

The bit you are referring to is called an "Easyout". Make sure the pilot hole you drill is not off-center and deep enough to give you enough purchase for the easyout to grab into the stud. It takes a bit of skill to extract a bolt/stud and once the easyout bites into the material, use even pressure and turn slowly. You can snap an easyout too. If you can, leaving the manifold on is the easiest and best way to extract the bolt because you are assured of not getting any metal particles into the engine; however, if you sheered just the head off at the surface of the manifold, you probably have at least 3/8" of the stud protruding from the engine when you remove the manifold. That means that you might even be able to get the jaws of a vicegrip plier onto the shaft and turn the stud out that way. Again, be careful not to get metal shavings into the engine. I am not sure where the bolt is that you sheered the head off of or what your situation looks like, I am just offering information. YMMV