Tacoma Dude

I just recently added a set of no name driving lights on the rear of my truck using Corey's tech page as a model (thanks dude!) and they work well but the angle of approach sucks.

I'm well aware of my options for readjusting the angle but I had a wiring question re: a 2nd set of lights.

The current set up I have now is 100W per light. These connect via 12 g. wiring to a 30 Amp relay. If I were to install another two 50W lights could I splice thetwo sets of 12 g. wiring into the relay with no problems?

Or should I just install just another switch and relay assembly?

Thanks!

Bumpin' Yota

If i understood your question properly, yes the relay will be fine. You will be drawing about 24amps through it if all 4 lights are controlled by it.

P = (V * I) * (some other odds and ends that is beyond the topic pertaining to inductive loads making the voltage lag current or vice versa...lol) so basically:

Power = Voltage * Current

--------(2 fog lights)(100 watts) = (12.5 volts)(I)
------------------------(200 watts) = (12.5 volts)(I)
---------(200 watts)/(12.5 volts) = I
--------------------------------------I = 16amps

So you are pulling 16 amps through right now, if you want 2 more 50watt lights, that's 100 more total watts...

------[(2 lights)(50 watts)]+[(2 fog lights)(100 watts)] = (12.5 volts)(I)
------------------------------------[100 watts]+[200 watts] = (12.5 volts)(I)
-----------------------------------------------------[300 watts] = (12.5 volts)(I)
--------------------------------------(300 watts)/(12.5 volts) = I
-------------------------------------------------------------------I = 24amps



So you'd be yanking 24amps through a 30 amp relay @ 12.5v - I think it should hold, but check to make sure that you are not loosing any voltage from the front battery to the light. If you do loose more than a volt, you need a shorter run of wire or a larger gauge. You can check with a multimeter set to DCV or a voltmeter.

If everything still checks out, but you still have problems, try a 40 amp relay.

Steve

ps - yes, Im one of those dorks in class that actually liked word problems and math.....lol

Byron

I had the same answer as Steve, but he beat me to it.
Your 12 ga. (I assume stranded) should be good up to about 35 amps.

-Byron

Corey

iTrader: (1)

I had figured this out earlier also, but did it a little different:

"By looking at that I took your 30 amp relay and multiplied that by 12v, and you come up with 360 watts.
At least I think that is the way you do it.

If you have two 100 w lamps now, and add two more @ 50 w each, that would be 300 w total, with 60 watts to spare on the relay."

That is good to know then, as my two Hella 500s on the roof are pulling 110watts (2x55) and they have their own 30 amp relay.
If I want to add another set of Hellas up there, that would total out to 220 watts, leaving me a good margin on the 30 amp relay.
So I could run all 4 then off of the one switch I have now for them.

I am not sure of the gauge of the wire now that runs from the roof to the relay.
A few pics of the wiring can be seen here.
http://www.pnw4runners.net/tech/roof_light_wiring/

Tacoma Dude

As usual a quick set of replies to help out a newbie!

Thanks guys, I knew I could count on y'all.




Now to head :walk: over to NAPA and get those lights!

Woohoo!

Tacoma Dude

By larger guage do you mean larger in # hence a thinner wire?
OR do you mean larger guage as in a fatter wire?

From what little I know I'm assuming you mean a thinner wire?

Sorry- I am the epitome of new truck owner I think

Bob_98SR5

Bumpin',

Thanks for the edjumacation. That was really cool how you laid the math behind that out.


Bob

Byron

No, you'd need a fatter wire, the guage number would get smaller. You'd be looking at 10 ga. to be precise...
-Byron

jx94148

Deffinatly want FAT wires to run 100 watt lights. He meant lower gauge.

Lethal

Hey Bumpin Yoda,

I am intrigued as to your SPL #'s. Do you wish to elaborate? I would love to see (pics)or at least hear (write up)what kind of system your running. I understand if you don't wish to advertise, on the board your set up, so you can e-mail me or if you would rather not share, thats fine too.

I am currently working on my own system. The build up will include Rockford Fosgate 1000BDs and 4 Kick Solobaric 12L7's. One 1000BD per voice coil. 00gauge wiring, 4 Yellow topper optimas, 110amp alternator, Brown Breaded cab, Helix Fanatic series RCA's, 10farad cap (or 2 fives), have yet to decide on a head unit but I have my pick from Kenwood, JVC, Rockford, Sony and Pioneer. I get sponsorship through my store as we are building a demo vehicle (score for me). Definately high volt pre-outs are tops on the list ie.. kenwoods new 5.0's and jvcs' new 4.0's. But then RF's 5.0 volt rms seems supreme but the looks aren't quite there (install points and all). Going to run MB Quart components off of a QX2180 Phoenix Gold to try and eliminate listeners fatigue from the bass but it's spl I want and 160-170dbs I am striving for.
What do ya think??

Lethal

sorry to hijack the thread a little

txcomp

I was just working on the USACi rule book just before I saw this thread. Here is a chart we use for audio competitions that you can use as a guide for wire size:

APPENDIX A. - Proper American Gauge Wire (AWG)

Current
Demand in Up to Up to Up to Up to Up to Up to Up to
Amperes 4 ‘ 7 ‘ 10 ‘ 15 ‘ 20 ‘ 25 ‘ 30 ‘
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
0-10 | 20 18 16 14 14 12 12
10-25 | 16 14 14 12 10 10 8
25-50 | 12 10 10 8 6 6 4
50-75 | 8 8 8 6 6 4 4
75-100 | 8 8 6 4 4 2 2
100-150 | 4 4 4 2 1 1 1/0
150-200 | 2 2 2 1 1/0 1/0 2/0
200-300 | 1/0 1/0 1/0 1/0 2/0 2/0 3/0
300-400 | 3/0 3/0 3/0 3/0 4/0 4/0 4/0

(sorry about the formatting, I know it is bad)

(txcomp = part-time USACi technical director and full time web master)

Tacoma Dude

s'okay,
I've already gone to NAPA and put in my lights

Everything workin' fine fellas, thanks for the help! I would put up pics but I accidentally broke the bolt. Zipties for now and replacements tomorrow :pat:

Again, thanks!




Hijack away!

txcomp

Lethal, sounds like your setup will pound but it also depends on what you are putting it in and how well your box is designed/made. I've seen competitors put a TON of watts and surface area in vehicles that don't "hit". A certain bread truck and armored car come to mind. (of course I've also seen a CRX with 1 15 do a 60 and change too)....

Lethal

saweeet !!!! my own personal audio guru

You might regret letting me know.

j/k that's cool. I would so like to pick your brain for a few minutes/hours/days/weeks/months......haha

We are going to totally seal up my 93 SR5 ext cab. Remove the rear window and shave it, install a micro camera and replace the rear view with a monitor (similar to motorhomes), if it gets a little freaky we plan on replacing glass with Mylar (sp?). One of my friends owns a glass shop and hook me up with what I need for material at cost and labour for free( at least it better be, since I spent countless wrench hours on his chevy lowrider). The cab will removed and gutted and sound deadener (probably brown bread) will be doubled/tripled up. Been looking at Sound Domain for install ideas but I would like to install the amps in a custom headliner but we're running into all kinds of objections. Any ideas to make it work???

Bumpin' Yota

I meant a smaller number which indicates a fatter wire. 10ga.

(good shotgun gauge too...)

Bumpin' Yota

Sounds like a good install that will pound like hell. However it sounds like you plan on competing exclusively with it. If that is the case you might want to look at the different organization's rules and competition divisions and classes. There's Db Drag (my personal favorite) can go to www.termpro.com. There's IASCA/IDBL, then there's MECA www.crankitup.net, and finally USAC.

My 159.8@42 hz was accomplished courtesy of a wall, 2 digital designs 9515s, and 4000 watts off of a 17v battery rack.

In DbDrag competitors compete in 3 division, street, super street, and extreme. What determines the division is your install. (Keep in mind this outline is off of last year's rules, which have changed a tiny bit for street division.)

Street division can only use 12" drivers, no quad coil subs, only 1 amp for street 1-2 and 2 amps for street 3-4. NO hi performace alts, no extra batteries, save one extra for street 3-4. The # after "street" indicates the number of woofers. No modifications can be made to the vehicle above the door sills and forward of the leading edge of the box.

SuperStreet is the fun one. No modifications forward of the B pillar, but behind the bpillar you can have fun. Walls are allowed. Any size sub is allowed. Any amount of amps are allowed. Any ammount of batteries are allowed. Only 2 extra hiperformance alts are allowed.

Extreme is nutzo - this is you interior done in nothing but mdf, bond0, concrete, and fiberglass and is not street legal.

Street division has 2 classes:
1. street 1-2
2. street 3-4.

SuperStreet has 6 classes:
1. Super Street 1-2 no wall
2. Super Street 1-2
3. Super Street 3-4
4. Super Street 5-8
5. Super Street 9-12
6. Super Street 13+

Extreme has 5 classes: everything that SS has except for the no wall.


Now to the difficulty of knocking down a good score - anything over 155db is going to take a lot of work garunteed. You're going to have to check - on the meter not the ear - what each individual part of you install does to help the spl. Try it with the caps, and without. (Im betting with the caps connected you will loose about 0.5db...) Install and trial and error dictate score sooooo much more than the equipment. Ive personally seen a walkthrough on a truck with 15 15s and about 18,000 watts pop a 138 on a soft arse Audio Control mic. Then again, I've gotten a set of 8" drivers over 145db legal using a street 1-2 install. So install will dictate how you do.

As to the source unit that really doesnt matter as much as a good line driver will. www.rwaudio.com That should give you in the neighborhood of 12-16v on the RCA lines, which will minimize your gain settings on the amps.

If memory serves me correctly the L7 12 really likes the 2.5cube box with as much port as you can fit. The L7 15 likes about 6 cubes each with again as much port as you can fit. As to the port length, that will be something that you will have to experiment with to find the proper length for maximum spl. As far as power, why the BD1000 and not the BD1500?

BTW - that amp is stackable, meaning you can wire up 4 of the 1500s (or 1000s) to a DVC sub like the L7. As to if it would hold up to 6kw for any length of time, I kinda doubt it, but you never know.

Ill post some pics....lemme dig up my SD page.

Bumpin' Yota

Here is the wall before the facia was install. (the facia finishes off the wall around the edges of the box) This was the install that popped that 159.8 when I powered up the subs with a set of PA2100d's great power from those amps, but too squirrely.

The first images were the most current, and as you progress down the installs are older and older. Right now there is nothing bass wise in my truck....now that my dd9915s are here that will be changing directly. This time, I am going to make it look halfway nice....lol



Here is a pic of the 17v battery rack. Those 8v batteries weigh in at 80lbs each and are for sale for 25bux each.



Here's the set of 8" off of a MTX81000d at 1ohm that did a 145.2



This was the install that did a 153.8 at 38hz This setup would take your breath away because the note was so low.

Lethal

Thats sweet. I wish I had the room of a Runner and not the extended cab. I appreciate your response.

I am running 1000BD's for space, as you know their physical dimensions are about 2/3rds of a 1500BD and with heatsinks connecting them will put me up around the same size as the 1500BD without. As for enclosures, I will either go to a wall or Hammerhill enclosures. I have access to the 6cubic foot maximum SPL enclosures for the 15" directly from Kicker but daaaaamn they're big !! Iw as thinking of running the 4 12" L7's in separate HH ported enclosures side by side in the ext cab with a contoured 'glass wall for appearance (and security). That way I can re&re for competition vs. daily driving vs. trail running. We had a sigle 8" L7 in a HammerHill hit 150.1dbs off of 3 1500BD's at the FutureShop (Best Buy) sound off here in town last summer. A gross over powering buy quite the show. He didn't blow it but only ran it for about 3 bass notes. The guy worked for Futureshop so they just amped the ˟˟˟˟˟ out of it to just score high.

What do you recomend for an alternator? I would prefer a bolt in. I know the MR2 has a stock 100 but requires some modification ie....fabrication of lower mount bracket etc.

I inquired around and 110amp seemed to be the largest direct bolt in available.

Bumpin' Yota

the only way i can see the L7 8" doing that score is if it was an outlaw score...(window or door open, mic in the foot well.) or with an extreme install - in which case it would be a low score. Also, how did they accomplish 3 1500s on it? I can see 1,2, or 4, but how 3? I need more details on that one in any case....

Db Drag, does legal metering, were the car is sealed tight as a drum and the mic is 12" off of the passenger A pillar, 4" above the dash, and 1" away from the windshield. Makes it a LOT harder to achieve high numbers than outlaw stuff.

I can definately see you doing 160+ with some work in outlaw metering, but legal, you will definately have a LOT of work cut out for you. Keep in mind that Db drag's leader in the world in super street 1-2 (wall with 2 18's and about 16kw is only 159.8 right now) And that person has about 1200+ hours in on that install constantly tweaking and tuning.

My score was last year, and on a softer (easier) mic, so I was about 6db off of that on the current mics.


Please please dont take my post the wrong way. Im just being honest and straight forward with ya. If you need ANY help at all, I'd love to help you or anyone else, out. I also personally hope you smash 170, and will be pulling for you, but try not to have any expectations going to the meter. The meter can be a bitch at times....

As to the alternator, I believe www.mralternator.com has a 120 amp direct bolt on. The external voltage regulator would be extra.

What are these HammerHill enclosures you speak of?

Steve