Chapman88SR5

alright guys ive searched and came up with a lot of good information on the AFM. the only thing i dont know is, where is it? is it on top of my MAF? thats the black cover i have to take off right? also i know ill probably figure it out, but once i take the cover off, how do i turn it a few clicks.

i also relize most of you are going to say this isnt a time worthy perfomace upgrade/tuning, but i still want to clean it and everything. thanks for the help.

mt_goat

Should be on top of your air filter housing, if you still have it. You can see mine in the bottom of this pic: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...92263572fKwNmW

Chapman88SR5

looks like uve taken yours off and then re-siliconed it. am i correct?

mt_goat

That is correct.

While we are on the subject, do NOT ever ever ever for any reason remove those 2 screws near the AFM pin connection. Toyota NEVER should have even put screws there, there is no reason to ever take those out. If you want to unplug the AFM remove the thin wire clip to unplug it, NOT those stupid screws. Ask me how I know, it only takes about 2 hours with a pair of tweezers to resolder the foil strips back onto the circuit board.

Chapman88SR5

lol sounds like a bad time, thanks for the advice although i read not to do so in my search. thanks for the help

EDIT: one more question, how did u manage to cut the top off?

mt_goat

Just take a box cutter and cut the sealant all the way around and then pry it off with a screw driver. I don't see any reason to take it off though, I never would have taken mine off if I hadn't ripped the wire connections off the circuit board.

Chapman88SR5

i wanted to do the AFM mod that i searched. "turning the AFM up a couple notches"

mt_goat

Oh yeah, I forgot about that. Let us know how that goes.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

You are asking for trouble messing w/ the AFM...I just got a new aftermarket one for a 1/3 of a new one w/ a lifetime warranty, so I don't have to worry about an AFM anymore...

runner89

If you do want to remove the 2 screws and pull the whole thing out pop the black plastic cover off first. that way you can disconnect the electrical connections first. the way most people get in trouble is they try to pull it out still connected and wind up using too much force and end up ripping the foil off. With the connections off it slides out pretty easy. you really need the top off so you are not doing it blind. I have taken mine out. I cleaned the contacts with electrical cleaner. I did make the mistake of tring to do this blind at first and it was a major PITA. I couldn't get it back in W/O bending the foils(luckly I hadn't ripped them off) also the fuel relay would go in on the wrong side of the slider arm. I would try to put it back in(blind) and it would start up but only run for a few seconds then die. After a few attempts(and getting really freaked out and pissed) I poped the top off and saw what I was dealing with. cleaned it and put everything back together.runs fine. I had the top off so I decided to adjust the A/F mixture. with the way my truck was running I decided to go 2 notches lean. not only does my truck run better now with more power it also gets better gas milage(up about 3-5 mpg)

sorry for the long reply, just figured I'd post my experience for others. allmost all the replies from searches say just not to pull it, not what to do if you were to of if you had.

P.S. when I sealed it back I used blue electrical rtv silicone. this stuff is made specifically for electrical components and is sensor safe.

Toysrme

OMG mt_goat I did the exact same thing LoL!
I had taken the plug off to move the maf a dozen or more times. That one day I forget to take the wire off on ym car, pull and ZIP! There went the PCB

After melting all the traces off with too hot a gun, it wound up taking several hours, to repair the repairs I was trying to make after doing something stupid in the first place!

mt_goat

That's very interesting because the write-up on this here: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/minutemods/afm/ talks about needing to adjust it on the 22re towards making it run richer. I guess going leaner worked good for you because you are at high elevations, correct? Has going leaner also work better for you at lower elevations? Do you get any pinging? Do you run high octane? Sorry for the 20 questions.

BTW we go to Durango, Silverton, Telluride area every summer to wheel the passes. The 3.slow really lives up to it's nick name up there at the top of the Rockys. :cry: Sure would be nice to have forced induction up there.

runner89

yes I went leaner because of elevation. I don't really drive below 7000 feet, and more routinely at 8000 or above. I had replaced my O2,cat,muffler, dist.cap, rotor,etc.etc. and was still spitting fuel out the exhaust,didn't have the low end power I wanted,and I was getting sub-par gas milage. since the adjustment all 3 aspects have improved.

Don't really ping,maybe a little on long hauls up steep passes tring to go faster than I should.

I run 87 all the time

I haven't ran It at lower elevations yet. I suspect I will have to readjust I when I move to Ashville this summer. it did come from sea level

taikowaza

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/maf-cleaning-disaster-86171/

hey you guys who did this ripping foil off PCB bit-
any advice on how to fix it, or how much is an aftermarket MAF the whole 9 yards?

thanks

mt_goat

Have you pryed off the top to see the damage inside yet? Got nothing to lose now (except your time) by trying to resolder it back together. How are your soldering skills? It helps if you use a small soldering iron with a pointed tip and NOT one of those big ass solding guns. Get some fine solder at Radio shack too. I'd recommend some thin .032 dia, 60/40 Rosin-core solder. Don't let your solder cross over to the tracks next to the one your working on. If you're an old goat like me, you will need reading glasses or an optiviser (best thing ever, http://www.icon.co.za/~numisphil/pichtm/Optiviser.htm) to see what you're doing. If you get a big glob of solder that crosses over to another track get some solder removing braid and try to remove it.

My repair has lasted about 2 years now with no problems. IIRC I soldered one torn foil strip back together in the middle.